Stephen

I swear gulwings are even a pain in the ass when the chassis is designed for them originally, you end up with ugly pneumatic struts exposed and most importantly if a gull wing car crashes and cones to rest on it's roof your screwed, the SLS has some explosive charge in the door to blow it off like an air bag in the event that happens iirc.

Oh right, I hadn't seen any at home but last two times I've been here ice seen a handful of them.

Genuinely a crap car based mostly around gimmicks and quirks. They took an iconic Japanese sports car threw away all the good things and kept the crap then made it worse. They kept the silly uneconomical, unreliable and unusual rotary engine, reduced it's power output ignored the fact that 230hp for 12-16mpg is in today's climate just embarrassing really. Then they stuck two ridiculous doors in the back which are barely of any use and simply up the curb weight significantly. Drop the rx8 Mazda go back and pretend you didn't do it and make another rx7 use a chassis based around the mx5 to keep it cheap and small, modify it a touch to make it a tin top, then use the focus st or rs engine out thier parts bin again keeping down production costs and stick a price tag of about £30k on it you would have a Stella little sports car to rivail Porsches boxster, instead of the dinosaur with half a ton of crap added to it they currently are producing.

I've seen two teslas and an aventador this week aswel, tesla are Dutch right? The BMW both were at home.

The doors lift up like a gull wing style and leave exposed chassis which looked to me like dry carbon...

I'd never buy french thier crap. I'd never have another vauxhall either they are even worse...I quite like the new fiestas for a small hatch or the BMW 1/3 series for something bigger.

It's like a prototype that didn't get toned down, needs time to become less out there.

May be worth getting a set machined up, one would be a touch expensive but for four it could be more worth it.

You could potentially run 2 1800 cfm fans, but the z rad isn't that big...

Do who's seen one then now they are out? I've seen two, had a nose round one aswel funny thing it's like a cartoon.

I don't know anyone with a vg30dett with external wastegates. It's probably a space issue imagine running the Wastegate lines and mounting them...maybe a single Wastegate mounted above the trans but what a faff to gain some room at the exhaust housing.

Rotterdam working on a chlorine generator. Pesky thing.

Do you mean sissor or lambo style doors? Gull wings would have to pivot on the tbar and would require a complete custom door and targa, as our doors have no surround for the window. It's your car so do as you please however I wouldn't waste your money. They are expensive to buy expensive to fit tend to drop and do all sorts if annoying things and tbh there a bit tacky these days, even Lambos don't have them anymore.

You need to get a BIG electric fan to do the job as the viscous pulls pretty hard. The Americans often use one off a ford tanus, ideally you would wish to connect the fan to a thermostat aswel. Don't expect it to be cheap, that's why people fail with it they throw in some little ebay fan that's way undersized and then wonder why it can't keep up. Maybe your exhaust isn't loud enough? On a serious point is it jammed on?

It's going mate.

It's OK when it's working properly, which it often isn't. I like the way it makes the car change lanes and overtake like a jet fighter, I like the way it corrects that hint of oversteer allowing the back to step out like a pro. I hate the way it can catch you unaware as it becomes active mid corner whilst on the loud pedal, when you have already exhausted the touch of oversteer and now require opposite lock and get stuck in this cycle of fighting against the hicas leaving you snaking down the road. Fully working on a car used for wafting around it's got it's unique niceness, for a car that gets it's throat ringed on empty a roads or sees track time it's a scarey thing that's probably broken anyway.

I'm having the wings and bumper off this winter to delete the guff under there and simply the power steering system this winter. I do not need a massive washer resivoir or expansion bottle. BIN

Getting anything out the bay is a good move, stock it's like spaghetti bolengese.

The turbo coolant loop runs from the heater matrix hard pipes in the centre rear of the engine and then makes a loop through to the underside of the plenum and back to the heater matrix, it goes all over the place. Fortunately it just standard issue water hose no moulded or shaped pieces, I believe it's 12mm id. Get a bit off and you can get some locally, I purchased a few meters of good year hose for not much. Not the most fun to change in situee. You can fortunately delete the water circuit under the plenum and bypass the hard line parts, this will get you by till the plenum comes off for something else. Just remember not to allow the new layout to touch anything hot or get kinked and make sure to bleed the system properly.

Even the actually subframe bushes can cause wheel hop and poor launch. Hicas bushes are famous for wearing and not holding the toe angle causing it to wallop round corners and try to fish tail. It must also be mentioned when it's wet and you hammer it the diff can stuggle causing the same issue, mine has fish tailed a few times. Complete rear end change this winter anyway though.

Those brackets are nice, I was thinking about mounting my gauges there but I thought it wouldn't look right but it does so may copy you there.

I bet the 200sx boys are pulling confused faces as to why you replaced that 2l t with a 3l tt with double the hp available from stock, oh wait when you put it like that it makes perfect sense. Welcome aboard.

Iirc they don't or are a nightmare to fit. If you want matching brembos you can match them up with a particular scooby rear calliper, there is some suggestion it's no better than the zed one. From what I've read the Evo brembos with stock rears and the bm57 master cylinder should be bang on.

They are yes but he actually is the caster and machinist so no middleman. Take your disc off measure it's diameter and thickness aswel as the offset and you should be able to work it out. It's highly likely an r33 brake pair. - - - Updated - - - Yeah that's the chap.

Let's take a quick step back and overview. The fouling is fuel fouling yes? The injectors all tested within tolerance and are injecting fuel, is that a certainty? Have you tested the power supply out the injector connector? Each plug is being supplied with power and conversely a spark? (It's probably not the safe way to do it but when I had a similar issue I did indeed connect the plug loose and earth it to the plenum by resting it on it, get an assistant to spot the spark. There should be no doubt or mistake if it's working. Don't blame me if to break anything or injure yourself though it's simply what I did rightly or wrongly) Once we have decided that we have one or both then it's down to way this happens, a dead CAS or ptu refusing to allow it to happen properly. If there is spark and fuel and the timing is correct then lastly we need compression. I doubt it's that though. As a side note have you made sure the ecu temp sensor is clean and have you tried running it with the maf disconnected on a freshly reset ecu? Both those can cause stupidly confusing side effects, Infact that is what was wrong with mine. The maf was dead.