Stephen

The solenoid just opens a different path to the waste gate to show unrestricted true pressure on to the Wastegate so it opens at 7psi, stock there is a tiny brass restrictor in line that acts like a boost jet tricking the car to produce 9psi. When knock is seen, ie code 34 it activates the solenoid to lower the boost to 7psi and retards timing. That's how I understand it anyway.

Yeah, I'd like to know too. Can they simply be unplugged and bypassed, then the knock sensor bypassed with a resistor?

Just drive it sensibly for 5 to 10 minutes. You don't need to sit it still first, I heard tat can do more harm than good. Just take it easy and don't go boosting it till it's warmed up. Doesn't take that long in these cars. My old Capri used to take about 20 minutes to warm up.

Lol, French cars are like French people. They give up easy. Historically French cars have always been pretty far ahead of their time, and built pretty reliably however modern French cars are crap. The only one I've known people to buy and not get annoyed and disappointed with is those xara Picasso the mommy mobile thing.

I always believed it DID increase your insurance premeuim, that was the majour why they are always proportionately cheaper to buy even once restored.

Pretty sure you can just run a single line to the Wastegate actuator, don't forget the restrictor, that's the thicker tube. The two 3mm ID ones are simply a loop to allow the solenoid to forfil it's function. Not sure about unplugging them. I'm going to bin mine off over winter, who needs the bloody things. You will find it fiddly to replace the actuator line in situee, esp on the drivers side.

A lot of wide arches don't even gain you much on each side 25-50mm I believe, not a great deal. I personally don't like most of the wide body kits they seem to neglect the front leaving you with a triangle type stance.

That's ridiculous! If that was my car I'd have him strung up! On a side note, anyone know what arches they are?

Definatly not right! As said, you've either got a leak or air in the system. The fact you can pump it a few times and it improves supports that thoery. Despite the general opinion that stock brakes are naff I would say differently, if they are in good order they will lock up and engauge the fronts at 60mph even with good tyres if you stamp hard enough on them. Where they fall down is thier ability to do this repeatably, they do over heat quite easily, but you would be on the verge of loosing your liecense by the time you achieved that on the road and driving like a chav. For track driving you definatly need an upgrade but on the road a properly functioning stock setup is more than adequate. What you must appricate though is that they don't feel the same as modern brakes, modern cars intially bite hard then loose that urgency quite quickly, the zed like many older cars the initial bite is softer and less noticeable however the bite continues at an equal rate throughout your braking. A stock z32 hauls from 60 to 0 in roughly 130ft about the same as a ford focus. Bigger brakes won't make you stop any shorter it's grip limited and I seem to remember the ABS is a bit basic compared to a modern one. In short, check for leaks, bleed the system inc the ABS unit.

Nice airport that, very modern. I enjoy the security on segways.

Nada today, nothing more than a windy day for an hour or so. I've been in Warminster all day and madam has been at home nothing there either. Infact I had my sunglasses on on the way home, really nice evening.

Next stop Santas house haha welcome aboard matey. Andrew, I spotted my first one when I was 11 some kid at schools dad owned it, I was so impressed and thought it was seriously fancy. Never thought I would own one. 11 years later I brought mine and I've had that for five years now. A 16 year journey haha.

It's not forecast to hit as far as us Si I don't think, weather report said Northern Ireland, Scotland and the north west, possibly the east.

You have to stop being silly here, I know it may be uncomfortable but you have to report that car as stolen. What if it's involved in an accident? Friends don't disappear in other friends cars, that's called beinga thief or at the very least an ass hole. Good luck.

I think that's usdm cars joel

Bloody right! The fact that a stock long block z32 broke into the 9s in America less than a fortnight ago is testimony to it's strength, as is the fact that I drove around an NA block running 9psi without a map to suit for 4+ years! Refreshing them with a rebuild like this is nothing but common sense and giving yourself some protection is prudent.

Stock rods etc are forged are they not it's just the piston that's cast? The weiscos I think are heavier as they are more dense and there's more material this keeps things cooler and helps reduce the risk of detonation as I understand it.

I wasn't aware it was a race bud, just a fun journey :D

Don't take things that way Steve, whilst you can hit 400hp with a mostly stock setup there is nothing wrong with an over speced engine, equally the equipment you would have used to 400 should now net you more, that's a good thing. It's only the HG that people are questioning, and as Jaffa pointed out he has that very gasket without issue. You could replace them with stock without too much expense if you were concerned about it.

He means you wouldn't fit a non turbo front fascia to a tt, because it would block the intercoolers. Of corse if you had a fmic that would change things but hell the TT bumper is better looking, more aggressive.

I've stripped all the adjustable arns apart from the chromed ones and painted then a few nice thick coats of hammerite, much nicer and durable too.

Seconded, orange is the worst colour around.

Spotted this, might be just what your after? http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/111465798505?nav=SEARCH

Drift works kit then mate.

Lonezedder is correct, however repairing the blasted thing isn't a cheap option, £80 Isherwood quid per hicas ball joint for starters. I personally don't like the way it works, it's great for overtakes which is what it was designed for that and slalom work but when thing get out of line it can make things unpredictable and many don't enjoy the floaty sensation as if the rear is slipping already. If you have decided that deleting it is the way forward you have two options, a lock out bar or a full delete kit. The lock out bar simply licks out the hydraulic action, it still relies upon those worn hicas bushes and arms. The full delete kit replaces the arms and bushes to create a similar set up to how the NA is so whilst the kit is more expensive it will actually achieve what you want.