Stephen

Exactly, I watch seriously limited amounts of proper TV myself. On demand services etc are far better. Tbh if I'm home alone the TV stays off, il be doing other stuff, unless it's the depth of winter then the playstation goes on. Back on point though, TV as we know it is a dying concept and a public service such as the Beeb, funded by a tax you must pay to have a TV wether they use there service or not is making less sense by the day.

BBC3 :lol: Tbh the BBC is on a downward spiral in my opinion, they do make one or two great programmes but the likes of channel 4, sky etc blow the pants off them. If anyone's been watching the history channels, Viking's you will know what I mean, bloody fantastic. The beebs days are numbered I'm afraid most under 30s are disengaged with it as a whole.

How about a piece of 5-10mm plate, drill holes at the end and use the bolts provided for the bumper support to pin in in place. There's three each end. Shouldn't move far with this in place. Then when not needed it can simply be unbolted. No welding required, no cleanup aft wards. Just an idea. Should be man enough.

Looks like some ones used a cavity wax product.

Took it out to get dinner. Crisp evening air was pleasing to the car.

They've likely been deleted. You will have to get on your hands and knees and have a look.

Do you have cats?

Keep going mate, think how nice it will be all clean and repaired. Take the opertunity to bin the guff.

You will likely find the cat light is on because the sensor is no longer connected. Has the car got decats? Mine did the same when I decatted, I cant remember what I did about it.

If the price were right I'd be interested in carbon sill covers. Was thinking just the other day how under whelming the stock plastic is.

Oil galleries for the turbos are already there to use mate. Just take the bolt out. Yes, any reference to boost is the total amount. They are parallel so each turbo produces 7,9,14 whatever the set value is and combined they also produce 7,9,15 etc. Its not a case of one makes 7 and so does the other making 14, they both produce 14psi. However if one failed you would feel lots of lag and struggle to make boost as one turbo would struggle to produce enough air and obviously half the engine would be starved.

Don't forget though they work in a cross over fashion, the left turbo drives the right bank etc.

Ooooooo unicorn!

I know it sounds complex but it's not. 100% of engine oil is passed around the block until it reaches +45psi. At this point, where it exceeds 45psi a spring in the oil tree opens up the oil cooler circuit, it's essentially a pressure relief valve. At this point a percentage is sent through the block and a percentage through the cooler back to the pan. There's a 1/18" restriction in the return line that limits the volume of oil, and stops oil pressure dropping excessively. The stock oil cooler is not thermostatic so runs when cold, cold oil is a higher viscosity, therefore more resistant to flow resulting in higher oil pressure. The stock system also does nothing at low load when warm. For example at hot idle. Basically it's quite inefficient. For high performance applications switching to a full flow system, one that cools all the oil that passes through the engine, with a thermostatic sandwich plate, to regulate oil to the optimum tenpreture, is far more preferable. For stock or near stock cars, that see road miles only, the stock system is fine. The oil I. These cars can get dirty quick, esp on higher mileage blocks. Don't forget the FSM recommends oil changes every 3.5k miles. You only have 3L of oil and it gets worked hard in that engine in its cramped bay.

Unless you've got a spare 2JZ kicking about I doubt it. Engine swaps are expensive.

I believe it's about 45psi of oil pressure it opens.

It is and Nick did, but an aftermarket ecu opens up a world of failsafes that just weren't around 30 years ago.

Don't think you can find them anymore. My understanding was that these were made by the same people that were making the AMS ones and it got put a stop to quite quickly. So now your choice is genuine MSP ones or "official copies" the AMS ones.

Cams are the same throughout the range aside from the ones fitted to TT autos. If it's a 91 then it's likely phase 1 30P heads.

Wiesco pistons with Eagle rods are pretty tried and tested. The NA engine is so similar to the TT. Really it's only the Pistons that vary. Although there's some suggestion that the NA heads are slightly more restrictive. Crank, rods(gudgeon pins are different) cams and block are all the same. Exhaust valves are different, TT ones being of a different material. Oil squirters are different but if you are going forged you will want the NA ones anyway. Do you know what phase NA engine you've got? The later ones that feature 10Y heads use a different lower plenum that can accomdate the later style injectors without adapters.

No, there not.

In other words you get what you pay for. Unfortunately in this country were pretty limited by what's available as well. Have you thought about tweaking them? Using a jack and the weight of the car to MAKE them fit? On the plus side the welds are alright and they don't rust in 10 minutes flat.

I had bilstiens before my Tiens they provided a good enough drop and good handling without being harsh. I'd recommend them again. I only switched them out because I wanted the car lower. There was about a 20/30mm gap between tyre and arch I wanted to close.

I have the TT Janspeed ones and apart from the bracket not engaging 100% they fit fine. No problems. They are cheaply made Chinese parts Lee, fitment varies from batch to batch and that's why they are cheap. Ones that bolt up perfect from Yankee land would of been far more expensive.

The 30th is a bank holiday?