Stephen

Mate at the end of the day Jimmer knows the build and your spec. Have a chat with him surrounding your options. Your going to need a remap due to the changes made to get the best out the car anyway. Jimmer as the builder is the best person to advise you how things should be proceeded with. Your still running at atm I take it?

I'm thinking the rear caster is out on that wheel. As this wasn't adjusted on the alignment.

No. None of that is an issue. It's all present correct and straight.

Everything is fresh back there.

As above. Even though the car has had an alignment the wheel is not central in the arch. That's kind of miss leading, what I mean is both rear wheels aren't equally distant from the fore and aft of the arch. There's about a 5mm discrepancy with the passenger side sitting slightly further back, visually at least. Ideas?

You could stipulate that it's a "power run only" ie no changes made just to see the output. This is fairly common practice. In answer to the question though, no there not all equal. Different brands will be different. Tbh dyno's generally are a bit of a farce.

In the mid 90s it became Japanese law that a car could only hold a certain amount of Automatic gear box fluid. This effected the Z32 because it uses PSF to run the power steering. This was the driving force behind the switch to the electronic HICAS system. The trouble was even after that, with both steering and box combined, the amount of fluid was still 2ml too much. This was discovered and they were forced by law to comply. So rather than redesign the system further and create further expense and delays the simple solution was found, to press a dimple into the resivoir displacing the volume whilst not effecting the level switch. Using the law of displacement. This was done by supergluing a 3mm diameter ball bearing into the press mould of the pot. The "new" pots were rolled out throughout the range to reduce production cost.

Rare or not it's grim. If that car was mine is be switching to a plain black one right away. Looks like grannies fireplace from the 70s.

Out of interest grey, what was the cause of engine failure? Ring lands? Also I know you say the map was shit but in what way? Mapping is pealing my interest at present so I'm keen to know where the fault lay. Who read your map and remapped you to where you are now?

Nipped out in it this morning for some domestic bits an 8 mile trip turned a bit longer, more like 20 :lol: just enjoying the drive.

Big improvements, nice one ted.

Battery connections. Temp sensor and connector. Ptu. Lot of potential issues. Have you run the ecu for codes?

A set of KYBs with Ebiach springs or similar transforms the stock car. Mines pretty abrasive now and crashy, tends to skip on jolt. I think a lot of it's the spring rate but the front in particular is quite hard, the worst thing is to hit a pot hole etc that's got harsh edges. Dips and damaged road are fine. If the road surface is good the cars good but let's face it the roads are crap.

Soon as it broke traction it would start to fish tail or follow the road camber. Probably fooked bushes yeah, although it seems a common complaint. Now when I spin up the car stays on corse much better.

It's a good question, one I can't honestly answer. My cars very similarly spec'd running gear wise to yours. Apparently the quaife diff helps a lot. I know that switching out the diff and subframe bushes helped to stop the fish tailing I was experiencing.

It's ok. Just gotta be mindful. Stab it at low speed and it will likely bite. Is what it is, you certainly can't just boot it at every occasion.

I think I'd need a custom remap rather than a generic chip tbh Dan. The cams and turbos would likely change the delivery more than out and out power. 400hp has been reached and destroyed on stock turbos more than once but it's doing it safely. I recon you'll get over 500 out of that set up with the right tune. 500 is possible with gt525s with the right mods etc.

Yeah. Auto turbos too. Probably why it has very little lag. 200@3.5k

Something like that, he said add 20% roughly which is over 370. I think it's safe it say it's over 350 maybe 360. The main thing is it's not leaning out and it's pretty quick.

2.5" decats with divorced downs, cat back. Cone filter. The usual basically. Don't forget that's rwhp not fly numbers.

So today I took a winding A road route to Salisbury, it's about an hour in the zed. I did have a purpose to visit Janspeed, i booked the time and this a few weeks back so I've been looking forward to it. The task was, check the boost levels are suitable with the AFRs. Here's a pic on the rollers. Russel the Dyno operator was really helpful and chatty, bit of a Nissan fan. He's got a couple of Pulsars and an R32. Had a few issues with the MBC, basically it's a bit pants, so an EBC is on the list. With 16psi of boost I made 312hp and 336ftlb at the wheels. The AFR was rich if anything and apparently there was room in the feeling for more boost. Anyway the 16 seems safe and not too knife edged. So I think certainly until I sort out some AFR control and the EBC this is enough. Got about 8 runs in, started to hear soak by the end he reckons.

Having just googled it, I recon your right.

Certainly is pretty strong salmon. I was going to go Vauxhall because of the vent assembly but the stitched dash put me off that idea. You could be right though about a Rangie.

I recon that's, an Audi interior.

Reminds me of this for some reason;