znut

yea still roofing mate...trust you to have a V10 rs6..LOL. I still remember that insane Supra you had and the weekly night meets at the boozer near irlam. Used to take myself,greddy,and dave chung about 10 mins to get home on the Wirral at speeds i dare not type here,my oil temp used to go through the roof...:cool3: great days

:rofl::rofl: thats right yea

did,nt greddy (chris nolan) go to that Mike?

Ahhhh its Mike...where you been matey?:cool3:

Iff you dont have a beam puller (google it) then take the nut off and get a piece of steel tube and hit the wheel down onto the taper with a firm crack with a heavy hammer....99.9% of the time anything stuck onto a taper will release iff given a firm bang onto the taper. Should then just bounce back up and lift off

Great stuff Gary..cheers and ime overdue a trip up the hill at the loop:wink:

you need to go through all the gears slowly to open the solenoid valves and fill the chambers..then let it idle in "park" to take reading

Iff i was going lads ide take the cat and fiddle pass towards buxton and matlock...wont get a better drive than that :yes:

is there a sub-section for no zed at all :cry:...for now!!:whistling:

yep super negative feedback on that sucker:thumbdown:

stick to the 10/40 semi buddy and see how it goes. these 90,s engines and there fairly slack tollerances by todays standards should not be run on fully synth imho,myself i used to run my zeds on a good quality mineral oil but changed it every 2000 mile and sometimes as close as 1200 miles;)

Dot4

you are 100% right Dan...splitting these calipers is asking for trouble and theres no need anyway for a seal rebuild.Ive never ever known these split calipers to leak from the mating surfaces of the 2 halfs and the internal seal never fails too. Nice feeling having new piston seals as the brakes do actually work much much better for it:yes:

that looks like its a toyo proxyTR1 too:eek:

Given your trade Steve and what you do every day of the week ime not going to argue over flow rate versus pressure rates in flowing liquids:D;)

:sad:

its actually the larger volume of oil more than pressure Steve thats the problem

yep rolandas car is another on my list of wants

my last engine build i found i had not one..had to buy one off Mark Derby. There is a big difference in hole size

not having the K bolt can overfill your turbo cartridge faster than it can drain Steve...smoke issues thereafter;)

theres only a handfull of zeds i would buy from this club atm and yours is one of them Joel...stunning mate:)

must be done with a stone cold motor...jack the front up and start filling. remove the vent screw on the rad and keep filling a bit at a time,when you think its full then do something else for half an hour as the air needs to find its way past the toggle pin on the thermostate which as you must know must be fitted so it sits at the top..when the air is drawing up you can hear the pin rattling...dont be tempted to start the engine as it must be done cold and can take upto 30-40 mins to fully fill the block. When you think its full then put the vent screw back in the rad and start the motor with the heater on full as this opens the matrix valve and let it idle with the cap off the rad..any remaining air will be drawn to the top well before the motor comes upto full temp and the cap can be re-fitted..I cant stress enough this intitial block re-fill cant be rushed or you WILL have air locks in the jackets and be chasing your tail for days trying to get it to settle down.

you aint going to get the timing to sit at 15 degrees with coolant temp at 48 and RPM at 1500..sounds like an air leak from the intake side and ide be checking cam covers including half moon seals for oil leaks as this will be wheres the smoke is from as it will be dripping on the manifold and running down the block....

another great leaves us:no: Rest in peace George..

go over the things you have disturbed prior to finding the pump fix...boost pipes,ecu,injector clips ect.