Yowser

Drove off without paying for Fuel yesterday ! Mind was seriously elsewhere. Got a couple of Miles down the road before realizing. F*ck!, Sped back there, rushed in, apologised.......and the staff hadn't even noticed.

The new one has some seriously hideous wheels on it. It looks like the love child of a Honda Civic and a Audi A8. I have mixed opinions of the old NSX. For example, in that pic Gary posted it just looks so Bland. It really does not look much different from a common as muck toyota Mr2. I have followed NSX's on the road a few times and they really dont have much road presence at all. But a Tastefully modified one can look incredible, and really makes me want one.

about £50-£60 new for set of 6 original Nissan Items from MJP or about a tenner total if you make them up yourself with bosch connectors and some wireing.

You an cut it down to the right size and fit a manual brake pedal rubber (or clutch pedal rubber) over it, and it looks completely oem. Cutting is a PITA though as there is a thicker part in the middle of the back that you need to get through, and its at an awkward place/angle.

Looks really good ! How did you manage to get the wheels for the model Z ? diy ?

Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals - John.B. Heywood Shigleys Mechanical Engineering Design - 9th edition Advanced Engineering Mathematics - K.A.Stroud Tune To Win - The Art and Science of Race Car Development and Tuning - Carrol Smith If anyone has already read them, please don't spoil it by telling me how they end.

I doubt its to do with your nose panel. A few drips from above wont do anything, but water spray from the front into your front bumper opening will. Its likely your missing the plastic splash guard that sits below the filter. People often mistakenly remove it when fitting aftermarket filters. its Black plastic and about the size of a piece of A4 paper and sits midway up the bumper height. Easy enough to mock up an improvised splash guard instead to stop water reaching filter from the bumper opening.

what a ****

Purchased our Leather 3 piece Suite from DFS about 10 years ago for just under £2k. Been very happy with the quality. Only downside was having to wait 10 weeks from order for them to arrive. I believe most Suites are made to order from places like DFS.

Amazing core strength

27" LED Monitor for the PC, to go with my 22" for a Dual screen setup. Loving it, wish I had done it before. Clothes, Chocs, smellys, Alcohol, tools, xbox and PC games and I said 'goodbye IOS, hello Android' with a new phone.

Yours looks Bayside blue like mine and Artzlogo's to me. I think a lot of people dont realise just how much of a colour change it has in different lights. That Black Z is ****ing gorgeous, its photochopped, but still...:drool: If I were to change mine it would be for Candy Blue. But candy paint jobs are not cheap.

Yep. Although having the green line go under/into/through the Plenum in the diagram might confuse people. but yeh, you basically just want to Tee-in the Front hard pipes lines into the NO Port, and Tee-in the two actuator lines into the COM port.

As well as that, compared to everything else mentioned here its also by far the quickest, best handling and best built with the best materials. Did I mention its the best ?

Greddy Profec B Spec II - probably the most popular EBC. Its simple to use, does everything you need and fit in the stock Clock position. The Profec E-01 is a great bit of kit, I had one in my previous Z, but its pricey and does a whole load of stuff you'll probably never need. Plus the Green LCD screen is looking dated these days and its difficutly to mount it without it being on display to everyone. The Blitz SBC and AVCR are also very good.

No more messing really, same as any fmic. You buy fmic with the pipework....or you buy it without and have the pipework made up separately....same either way. You certainly dont get any fmic's that use completely stock pipework.

1. Main ECU (reprogrammed) 2. PAS & Hicas ECu 3. fuel Pump controller The VPC basically takes in the signals from Map and air temp sensors, and converts them into understandable signals to the Stock ECU. tbh, you have several different pieces of tech to do the job that one single piece of equipment could do. There is not a lot of need for a MAP sensor setup at anything less than 500hp but if you wanted to go that route then I would put the money towards a custom ECU management system, such as Emerald or AEM, instead. Alternatively you could just go back to a remapped stock ECU and MAF setup, which is a perfectly adequate setup when mapped by somebody in the right hands unless your really chasing insanely high number.

Both UK and Japs have Oil coolers as standard. The UK has a 19row 235mm oil cooler, The Jap has a much smaller cooler as standard, which is pretty inefficient. They are both mounted in front of the radiator under the nose pabel. The UK cooler or a similar cooler is a great upgrade to the stock Jap setup.

I went from all blue to all black in mine. The Blue is very very rare, but like you I just was'nt a fan. There is a fair amount to change - Seats, Dash, doors panels and trim, carpets, A,B and C pillars, roof lining, boot plastics, tailgate plastics, seatbelt covers, boot/fuel flap lever Could be a good opportunity to do what I did and install the rare but much nicer Series 2/3 Suede trim though.

The cost of buying the original engine is tiny compared to the total money spent by John developing the engine and transplanting it. You can find them all over U.S Ebay for $500-$1500 A good site for Z engine transplants is hybridz.org and nicoforums

Controversial car, Controversial owner.

Bmw E39 530D or E46 330D. Without a doubt the best Diesel daily drivers you can get for the money and much better than anything else mentioned here.

Budget ?

Its an Evolution Explosion kit. (front bumper and skirts) - Very rare.

See you all there :clap: