Yowser

Handbrake and Rear pads are differnet systems. The Handbrake uses a Drum and shoe setup - So for the handbrake your looking at either adjustment, worn shoes or glazed drums. How bad are they? Did he say they need replacing or can they be cleaned up and painted? If replacing then to do the job yourself then its cheap, but labour intensive. You need to drop the rear subframe really to replace the pipes. You can get a roll brake pipeing, the ends, and a flaring tool fairly cheap though and just make up the new pipes yourself and route into place. Expensive if you get somebody else to do, becuase of the labour involved. You'll need to have a good look at this, to check its not rotting from the inside out. If it is there are 3 layers involved in parts of the rear sills. If you replace any of the sill then make sure you seam weld it rather than spot weld. They are spot welded from factory but need to be seam welded for mot regulations when redone.

Handbrake and Rear pads are differnet systems. The Handbrake uses a Drum and shoe setup - So for the handbrake your looking at either adjustment, worn shoes or glazed drums. How bad are they? Did he say they need replacing or can they be cleaned up and painted? If replacing then to do the job yourself then its cheap, but labour intensive. You need to drop the rear subframe really to replace the pipes. You can get a roll brake pipeing, the ends, and a flaring tool fairly cheap though and just make up the new pipes yourself and route into place. Expensive if you get somebody else to do, becuase of the labour involved. You'll need to have a good look at this, to check its not rotting from the inside out. If it is there are 3 layers involved in parts of the rear sills. If you replace any of the sill then make sure you seam weld it rather than spot weld. They are spot welded from factory but need to be seam welded for mot regulations when redone.

Pleased to see you back onboard Dave :)

Pleased to see you back onboard Dave :)

Gratz, Good luck mate.

Gratz, Good luck mate.

So instead of buying from our very own Trusted UK seller, we have to buy from some unknown trader based in germany thats selling them for £100 extra delivered.

Surely thats a Cougar style R8 ! :eek: :rofl:

Yep, that works. Standard method for fault code check.

:rofl:

Except this is a thread asking for slicktop numbers ;)

1k will get you pretty much most prefix number plated cars (pre 2001), and quite a few 51 onwards cars too. I'd go as modern as you can and probably german VW Golf Mk4, VW Passat B5/5.5, Bmw E36 3series (some e46 3series), Bmw E39 5series, Audi A3, Audi A4 Plenty of non-german options though, but they are inferior - Ford Focus, Mondeo, Peugeot 207, 406, Renault Laguna, Nissan Almera, Primera, Honda Accord ..etc Alfa 156...oh wait, you said reliable... Diesels tend to be more expensive, with less of them under 1k, even older models...but you can get VAG TDI's for around 1k

Less daunting that you might think for such a major interior component. If your familiar with removing the rest of the interior panels then there really aren't that many more screws holding it in and they are all in fairly obvious places. (Either end of dashboard, middle, behind clocks and under windscreen vents)

I had a ST202 2.0GT, and it was a decent car. Smooth, Comfortable, relatively quick, handled well, reliable and well built. I wouldn't bother with the 1.8 st. Its a lot slower and less desirable for resale. The 3S-GTE in the GT is 170bhp, compared to the weak 115bhp 7A-FE, plus it a much better all-round engine with more aftermarket support. The GT also came with a better spec and than the ST, including sports suspension, bodystyling, wheels...etc. The Gen6 are so cheap these days your not going to save much in cost to buy, but if mpg really is the strongest priority then thats the only reason to go for the ST. I believe I got low to mid 30's average in the GT, mixed motorway and town. I also had a ST185 GT-Four as my first jap performance car, about 13 years ago, and have very fond memories of it.

Loved Red Dwarf. But the xmas specials they did a year or 2 ago were really bad :(

A lot of Bmw's come with the chrome trim...BUT, when you buy the Sports spec or the M-spec, they are Black ! In most cases the chrome look just looks dated. Seen a lot of Z's with the black stripped back to chrome look, and it looks terrible imo

or their 350z body with 300zx VG30DETT running 6.58 secs

I see your 7.9 supra and 7.5 gtr....and offer you the "Lazcano racing" 7.09 300zx ;)

Mine 93 TT Manual - Originally Sapphire blue, now Bayside Blue

Despite seeming like the successor to the 300zx, the 350z was intended for an entirely different market. The 300zx, with a price tag of £35-40k 20 years ago, was Intended as a Japanese 'Supercar' with the technology and specification to rival the top of the range high performance sports cars from Porsche, Corvette and its fellow Japanese competitors. Designed when Manufacturers were pushing themselves further and further, and where customers had the money to spend, petrol prices were low and people were not so concerned about Environmental issues. In terms of Design, development and its Sales Market the 300zx has more in common with the new GTR than the 350z. As it happened there were economic issues around the world shortly after the 300zx launch, and this had a negative affect on worldwide sales, and shotlived the UK Sales market. The 350z is designed to compete with the entry-mid range sports cars, often used as Company cars like the Boxter, Bmw Z4 and RX8 at a much lower price range than the 300zx, despite economic inflation. A very capable sports car in its own right though, and similar in performance to the 300zx simply due to advancement in engineering design over the years.

Happy Birthday Old Chap :happybday:

Happy Birthday Old Chap :happybday:

Yeh, sent out in Batches.

Yeh, sent out in Batches.

Its the International Drift Series (IDS) and European drift championship. I dont really follow Drifting, so dont know how that relates to the UK series.