Yowser

ok, attached Excel document for Import models only. VIN_dateofmanufacture.xlsx

Chassis Number should start with one of the following : Z32 = 2 seater Non Turbo JDM CZ32 = 2 seater Twin Turbo JDM GZ32 = 2+2 non Turbo JDM GCZ32 = 2+2 Twin Turbo JDM HZ32 = Convertable Non Turbo JDM RGZ32 = 2+2 Twin Turbo UK UK models also have something like JNO at the very front. Then the rest of the number will help date the vehicle, I had a list somewhere of Date ranges for Chassis numbers...will try and find it.

Blimey Pete, its been so long since I'd seen it I was'nt sure it still existed. Great to see it on the road. Does this mean I have to finish mine now :blink: Whats the engine status, built and running as originally planned ? Been looking forward to seeing what a fully built up NA block can do.

In regards to Aerodynamic Drag. Most cars have a Drag Coefficient of 0.30 - 0.35. The Z was pretty good at its launch, but cars are becoming more aerodynamic as manufacturers race to improve fuel economy. The 300zx TT is quoted as 0.32 and the NA as 0.31. For the Vectra GSI its 0.30 When it comes to Manufacture quoted Drag Coefficients, unless specified separately, they are always for the base model, as it has the lowest Cd. The performance models, like the GSI have a higher Cd. Vauxhall have a history of making low drag production cars. The Base model calibra had the lowest Cd of any production with 0.26 for 10 years! Cross sectional area is important, but you cant really just look at the shape of a car to guess its Cd. Its a bit of a misconception that frontal Area is a the main dependent of Drag Coefficient. The drag coefficient is determined by Profile drag and Skin friction drag, which are affected by pressure differences around the vehicle body. Aspects such as ground clearance, floorpan shape, grill openings, window rake, tailgate/hatch slope..(any many more)....all affect how the air interacts about the body, which alters the Cd. One of highest speed production cars in the world, the Bugatti Veyron, has a drag coefficient of 0.41 - 0.36, depending on its ride height setting. .....and F1 cars have a Cd of around 0.7 to 1.0 (depending on setup).

UK : PSI Jap : mmHGx100 7 mmhGx100 = 14 PSI (well its actually about 13.5, but close enough).

The Cerbera does has a higher top speed (180 - 195 mph, depending on which engine), but it definitely did not drop a gear at 170mph. That would be a very costly gear change lol 260mph :D

Many have been 175'ish on Stock/ Mildly modified versions.

I believe the Z32 kit may still available from direct from Strosek, but its very expensive. zcentre have been selling their Strosek replica kit for many many years now though.

Dont get the 525i, get the 530D instead, with Sport trim, although maybe over budget. The sports model and the 3.0D attend to attract a premium now. 528i is a better buy if the 530D is out. Alternatively .. E46 330D E46 330ci A4 quattro (2001 on) Accord Vtec (2003 on)

Fronts - Drill mounting holes in hub larger. Bolt on. Job done. No bracket required. Rear - Dont bother. If you already have them, sell them, and get a set of Skyline R33/R34 GTR Rears instead. Exactly the same Setup but they are a straight bolt on.

Looks the part ! :cool: , and great spec list. V. Nice.

A 6000k H3 HID Kit transforms the light output, better than most cars on the road, especially with the insides cleaned. Cost about £35 and takes about 2 mins to install, its just plug and play fitment.

Make sure you get High Pressure Fuel Injection Hose. This is critical, a lot of sellers will list fuel hose without specifying if it is high or low pressure. High pressure hose uses multiple reinforced ply. What sections are you looking to replace. 2m will cover the engine bay replacement between fuel filter and fuel rail and back. You will need a lot more if your looking to replace the hard pipes to the tank.

there is a little plastic part on the lock that the Central locking rod connects to. Common part to break. You can get replacement metal versions.

its becoming more and more common for new cars to come without Spare wheels. I know a lot of Fords, Citroens and Bmw's dont....I presume its a similar case for many other manufacturers. Instead they are supplied with the Pressurized foam cans instead and a 12v tyre inflator. I had a puncture about 4 years ago and the AA charged me to tow the vehicle as it did not have a serviceable spare (I also did not have the foam can or a tyre inflator, although If I did I believe it would do the job) Not sure if thats still the same policy. AA T&C are here : http://www.theaa.com/resources/Documents/pdf/breakdown-cover/terms-and-conditions-current.pdf

WTF. This makes no sense.

Dude.era. Ended. :cry:

Pete, Turbo Technics (and other companies) offer various different "stages" of rebuilds on their turbos. Technically the Stock Turbochargers are Hybrids (T2 and T25), so even a completely stock Rebuild by Turbo Technics could be referred to as a Turbo Technics Hybrid. Typically the options are : - Stock - Stock with 360 bearings - Larger Inner compressor and/or turbine openings. 360 bearings Stock Housings. - Larger Inner compressor and/or turbine impellor and openings. 360 bearings Stock Housings. - Larger compressor or Turbine Housing (often from a T28 or similar) and impellers. 360 Bearings. (Different housing markings from stock would give this one away) Most of these changes (other than a housing change) are internal. Blueprinting of parts, Flowing ports, grinding inner housing and fitting larger impellor. Exterior markings tend to be standard, unless Turbo Technics tag on their own Label. (I'm more familiar with Turbo Dynamics than Turbo Technics) You could possibly measure the compressor and turbine impellor/openings and compare to stock or look for different impellor wheel designs. Some are twin bladed others single..etc

Desirability is an important and very relevant factor on Sale price. Far more people want Manuals than Auto's and will pay more for one. I would say the sale price difference difference is £750-£1000, and its been like this ever since I can remember. Prices do vary wildly with these cars, but historically, in general, you see Autos at the lower price end and Manuals at the higher end. I don't believe original vs converted manual is that relevant in price, providing the job is done properly, then its identical to a genuine original. Most buyers/owners would not even know. Although interesting point made by Quavey, about future classics later on down the line. Look at how many people post about how they are searching for a Manual but cant find one, so settle for an Auto with the intent to convert later on down the line. Most owners get a garage to do the work, and your looking at £1200-£1700 for the process. If you do it yourself then more like £500-£800, depending on how cheap you source the parts and wether parts needs replacing (eg. clutch, release bearings, gaitors).

I think i used these last time http://www.onlinepallet.co.uk/ You can use the Half Pallet service for Engines. If you have access to any of that thick cellophane stuff its great for wrapping and securing the engine and pallet afterwards.

There is probably better ways, take a look at the iCloud service, most phones can use it or even come with it pre-installed. You can have it do it completley automatically and then everything is secure and private. There are others, but iCloud is the one that comes to mind. I would'nt trust Facebook for permanent storage of important pics you want to keep. Plus, they frown upon using it for naked pics of the missus, so got to find somewhere else for them. I would guess they probably commented as every time you do it you fill up their facebook news wall with all the pics.

The 300zx was Manufactured from 1989-2000. 1990-1994 was the official UK Sale dates. 1990-1996 was the official US Sale dates. There should be a date of First Manufacturer on the V5 somewhere (Mine is on the front page where it says - Was Registered overseas. Declared Manufactured 1993). When it comes to Imports I suspect they probably take a manufactured date from whatever the owner/seller has listed as the Declared date. If you give me your Chassis number I can check it against the Chassis number list for a date range. You also check items like labels on seat belts for dates, although items like that get changed over a lot through wear and tear.

Dont use a NA Clutch & Flywheel on a TT though. You'll need the TT clutch & flywheel, and have to grind out the bellhousing and Space the starter.

Bunch of filthy Whores

They are meant for fwd Hatchbacks. Narrower than the stock wheels and very skinny compared to most aftermarket Z wheels. Plus the offset is weak, so they would sit pretty far inside the arches without serious spacers.