Yowser

Dont forget they are just the broker, sounds to me like the problem your having is with the Courier that was supposed to collect, rather than them. Still complain through them, but perhaps consider one of their other courier choices. I use to use them for business collections everyday - Thats 5 days a week, for 2 years. Hundreds of collections and didnt even once have have a single issue. Used their DHL service and it was spot on, they used to collect at the same time everyday by the same driver.

You did reseal them, with new stuff ?? (you could of just used the old stuff, it does'nt need to be replaced, it reseals). Water is the last of your worries if you did not reseal them, the worst issue will be Exhaust fumes sucked in.

Congrats Steams ! :cool:

Thats normal. ET35 is a very weak front offset. Depending on width you typically need around et+20 for the front to sit flush on stock arches.

They 5 hours behind.

relying on being able to remove a fibreglass widearch kit in one piece is a big risk. If the corrosion is not that bad you would probably be better of seeling it a Widearch rolling shell once you've removed the running gear.

MJP dude ! seriously, never buy oem from zcenter. The Final price is usually way more than MJP and even Nissan dealerships.

Good description! Thats exactly how I used to do the clutch pedal. That damn loom has so little movement and sits right in the way. I know some fit it without going near the clocks, but if your Big then working under the dash can be a real struggle and any extra play you can get from the top the better.

note : If you dont earth the Neutral switch then dont try changing the base timing back to 15 btdc, or you'll retard by10 degree through the entire range.

They should both be the same - 15 btdc idle @ normal operating temp. However, if were talking Manual conversion then if you don't Earth the neutral switch after doing the conversion then the ECU thinks the car is in gear and raises the Closed throttle idle timing to 25 btdc. Its not an issue, you can leave it or you can earth it.

001 770 838 7777

It either has a private plate, or at some point somebody fitted a private plate and then kept the plate when they sold it on and had regular plate put back. Very normal/Common. But it does make the Full VIC check harder to rely on if its done by Reg only. I guess it depends on how much your paying (how new the corsa is) on wether or not its a concern.

Thanks guys. and really im truly humbled by the way the entire country has turned out to celebrate my birthday. I had no idea people cared so much. Everyone had taken the day of work, there are street parties, flags and banners everywhere, and even the queen is getting involved. Im truly shocked and cant thank you all enough.

for Road use, the GTR Brembo setup is a fine option. You want them from a R33 GTR, or R34 GTR - Front and rear. The 350z setup is exactly the same, except they tend to cost more and the Rears do not fit.

:blink:

Smithy closed quite a few years ago, Danny took over his business but with economic conditions and competing trade from Ebay and International suppliers he eventually had to shut down the business too.

R34 GTR front end conversion looks fantastic on them.

Stagea ?

Legacy ?

The stock solenoids will still introduce their restriction to the actuator, so you should indeed see a raised 2-3 psi boost level with aftermarket actuators and the stock solenoids. Effectively what you have done though is set your minimum full boost setting at 10psi, rather than 7'ish psi. But you dont really want to tune your desired maximum boost with the actuator. I would recommend investing in an Electronic Boost controller for full control. They have many benefits, including reduced spiking, faster boost build up, built in boost readings, over boost warnings and automatic safety restrictions, multiple boost modes (Valet, wet, overtaking..etc).

The stock wastegate actuators open at about 7.5 psi (intake manifold pressure reading), This is the systems stock boost pressure. When the ECU detects no faults, and when the engine is up to temperature , it activates the standard Boost solenoids, to restrict pressure to the actuators, in a similar manner to Boost jets or a Boost controller. This effectively tricks the stock actuators into opening at the 9psi mark, which is the systems extended boost pressure.

I dont know where to start here.... First of all, theres no individual and combined boost. One turbo feeds one bank, the other turbo feeds the other bank. You do not add the boost pressures together. The Balance tube simply equalises out the pressures in the intake before they enter the combustion chamber. The stock turbo's run 9psi each (or about 7psi in safety mode). Do not run more than 12psi on the Stock ECU, the mapping is not there for extended boost and you can all sorts of fueling issues. With a remapped ECU , 14psi is a safe maximum raised boost level with Stock Injectors. Beyond this and the Injectors are at 100% duty for extended periods and the the mixture leans out, resulting in increased detonation issues. With larger injectors (and a remap to suit) and aftermarket Intercoolers you can run them up to 17/18psi before they make too much heat to be efficient. However they wont last long and neither will a 20year old stock engine. Beyond 14psi on stock turbos, most will opt to then go for an aftermarket turbo setup, and since the engine is coming out at this point it makes sense to fit Forged pistons, new bearings and freshen up the rest of the engine. This is where it starts to get expensive.

PMSL. You completely had me till the last line

Yeh, as JoelyP Says, ex-member Funkyboogaloo used to run a Wrapping business (but not any more), and thats Coopers-swb car. I had initially considered it for the slicktop, but quotes were coming it at about the same or more than a Full respray cost.

Nice, cool vid :cool: Shame its not official though as he did it in the public sessions, so its not a full lap, its about a mile shorter. Its the 3rd time he has broken the bike record on the track over the years.