vodkashots

what the hell is it, the image is so small i cant make it out? lol link it. unless you have half a tube i can borrow for a bit, just to test it out like.

HAHA love it, Almost as good as this one 18+ by the way lol [Youtube]lvSPrOYzyt4

black? you told me bright pink?

im still hunting for a slot in charger for my Nikko RC car. seems i might just have to concede defeat.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAMIYA-1-10-RC-NISSAN-FAIRLADY-300ZX-TURBO-L-E-D-LIGHTS-MINT-READY-TO-RUN-/190682031136?pt=US_Character_Radio_Control_Toys&hash=item2c6588e420 i want that though a 300zx z32 would of been better.

How much you been quoted so far, i got a quote for both quarter windows and my rear screen done professionally using one piece for the rear screen, £180 I need the rear doing now as my sides are done already. just ned to remove this clear crap and the glue first.

I started, have some kind of clear tint on mine, its defo after market as they have used 3 strips to cover the screen, you are correct it stinks like shite, and yes Richard is correct too, you cant help but smell it more while trying to work out what flavour of dog food was used.

Hmm my car has mysteriously fixed its self? sounded like a bag of nails yesterday having fiddled with the wiring loom, today was dreading driving it with out the time to sort it out, got in and it purred like a kitten? :blink:

yeah, remove the front drivers seat so you can lay down in the car. makes it much easier and more room

trust me, you can get that fuse box out with removing the pedals, well my interior is in bits, just need to get that damn aircon box out the way, but its giving me issues, doesnt help that its now freezing again out side, think i might just cut through the damn Aircon pipes and remove it that way. found a neat little security thing, if i unplug my boost controller the car fails to start lol

yeah that was before i realised just how bad it was, now wondering if i can change the loom with out taking the dash out completely to get to that metal plate that covers the loom going through the fire wall, need to be able to change it in 3.4 hours

Not sure how you have come to that conclusion, not sure ive owned the car that long and only had the injector issue for around 2 months lol

Nvm, found the issue, damn wiring loom is falling to bits, its too frail now, need to change this as soon as possible before damage starts happening to the engine.

Well Noz sent me a connector for my injector, so decided to change it over, started the car up, and its even worse than before i changed it, although the number 1 cylinder now has a non dodgy injector, for some reason cylinder 4 has decided to stop firing, so far checked the injector (ear test) thats firing away happy as larry, changed the coil pack over, still the same, and tested the coil pack spark, which was sparking away happily against the plenum, arrrgh, about to go out and change the spark plug for a known working one, hopefully that will sort the bugger out.

Pretty sure you can get a battery extender clamp. as someone had already lengthened the old one on my blue zed using one. Mark, he's not relocating, he is just trying to extend his cable as his new battery has the terminals a bit further away.

ive got a perfect condition battery cable £15 delivered, you could use that to cut it up and make it longer, now what side do you need, positive or negative lol

Trying to find more photos of this, but actually not a bad job lol

yeah have fun with that one, though good thing is, fronts dont need replacing as much as rears, but my recommendation when you come to getting new rubber, falken 452's

think its more to the point they seem to be one of those "forgotten area's" of maintenance and people expect them to last till eternity. pretty much like gearbox oil that gets over looked on maintenance.

35? ive got 285/30/19's on the rear, grip like hell. might be tyre choice?

worth it to have the roof off in the summer though and not be in a sweat box :tt2:

best and first thing you do is remove the drivers seat, its just 2 x 14mm bolts at the front, 2 x 14mm nuts at the rear and the cable for the electric parts of the seat if they are electric, dont lose the washers on the rear, remove the seat, now remove the plastic kick plate along the bottom of the door entrance, remove the screws holding the plastic cover over the fuse box and wiggle free, now your biggest enemy is going to be the acceleration pedal and break pedal, but there are 4 iirc, screws holding the fuse box in place and a load of connectors, you dont have to worry about what connector goes where, as they are pretty much all different fits, there is also 2 on the back of the fuse box that need unplugging. The fuse box its self has metal tracts inside it, that fit like some sort of fancy Rubik cube, (would make a decent game at JAE lol) so when taking it apart, make sure all fuses are out of it, make sure all relays on the back are removed, or you will struggle to get it apart. give it a good clean and dry out, while the fuse box is out, check to see if the targa drain is connected, if it is, then (even though you have given the hint) you are getting water ingress in the same area as me, and it is coming down the A pillar, you might find it will be a good idea to drill a very tiny hole directly under the first gauge on the A pillar, to help drain water out of here once is collected.

what about a forum popup like what we have for notifications for messages, saying "subs are running out" surely that is doable as well?

No need to apologize matey, we do not force you to keep subscribed lol

Mine is the same, i sort mine out by putting the heater on, but its eating fuel, im not so sure its the idle control valve, as i have changed that part on mine for a known working good one, im leaning more to the cold air idle adjuster thingy that sits next to the idle control valve that controls the revs with a cold engine to get it heated up faster, if this is sticking im guessing that once the car is warmed up, its trying to close but doesnt, the idle valve is then trying to control the idle but it keeps getting conflicting readings. so instead the idle fluctuates. Here is the video of mine doing it. 3YYpgxcCkbQ