vodkashots

if the petrol sat in the tank over night before you did anything today, then i doubt you would of done much harm. Biggest problem with petrol is it will eat the rubber O rings on some of the parts along the fueling system. Give it a good run and use all the fuel in the tank before filling up again. that way you will be filling up with plenty of diesel next time rather than watering down any petrol in the tank.

ill mirror what smithy has said, id first get it back to a basic zed set up, you have the loom for the MAF anyway, keep all the bits then set about doing what you want from what is essentially a stock engine set up. Would be much easier to deal with than trying to fix an engine around unknown works that most on here will know nothing about.

in all fairness, the car its self doesnt look to bad, needs a wash and a clean, and the welding done, but for the price you cant really complain, you could split it and get your cash back easy on it. As for the exhausts, well mine are 6" exits so not to far off lol Id be more concerned as to what the white residue is on the inside of the passenger side tail pipe.

cs1ZoxoCbEc lol

To be honest, i cant recall ever taking the p out of someones spelling or grammar, i suffer from dyslexia and if it wasn't for the google spell check my posts would most likely be unreadable lol People take the p on a lot of eBay adds, we just notice it more to do with the 300zx as thats the forum we are. I understand people picking apart the advert if they are advertising a 300zx with 500 BHP but the dyno sheet they supply with the advert states its only capable of just under 400, Ala... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500-BHP-NISSAN-300-ZX-TWIN-TURBO-MANUAL-BARGAIN-/160696209680?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item256a3d9110 (i actually like it to be honest :)) Although we own 300zx's, just seems that most people who want to sell one on ebay have to try and lie about what it does, what it can do, what its got and do not give a genuine description as to the car its self. Take mine for instance, listed with "HKS Super drager exhaust" (had a japspeed one instead), no mention of engine issues (wasn't firing on cylinder 6), and no mention of smoking from the rear tail pipes (both turbos were shot and i emptied 1/2 a liter of oil from the FMIC), no mention of rust, and no mention of dodgy wiring (wing mirrors) It was listed with the sole intent to mislead the buyer into purchasing it. for that i think they deserve it. sorry but if they are willing to try lying about the item they are selling, why should i we go easy on them just because they are selling a 300zx? Id rather someone knew the full story on the car, the things that need addressing or possibly need sorting out in the future. i do agree with the spelling and grammar comments though, not every one can use the queens English. The other thing, we are a discussion forum, there are plenty of posts where someone mentions that a car on eBay looks awesome blah blah, don't focus on the negative, we comment on cars on eBay as sometimes we have no idea who owns it, and its the first time we have seen it. just because someones opinion doesnt paint a happy picture, doesnt mean it should put people off from buying it. Its the same as modding your car and posting up images. Take me for instance. i put a reply to someone asking about carbon fiber bonnets, i listed the bonnet im getting, and a few people tried to rip into it, i really don't care, its my car ill do what i like to it, if someone else doesnt like it, oh well, no skin off my nose lol

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Agreed.

thanks for the nice comments guys, makes it worth while when its finally sorted.

Could be a number of problems, first port of call though would be the fuse, then get a consults on it, but i have a spare autobox anyway if it needed replacing, id be more worried about the rust it looks to have.

yeah he popped into mine for a bit, before heading off to yours. was nice to see him and his lad again.

Sorry bud, but im sure when buying a car, especially from the comfort of your armchair at home, you would want as much information as possible before purchasing it, after all its not like most can go and take a look, and although "Pictures are a thousand words" not in the case of buying a car they are not. Putting up a bit more information about it, rather than letting people go "oh hang about, the sill is almost falling off" it just stinks of lies about the car, im sure 10 extra minutes of information about said vehicle, wouldn't of eaten into his busy life style to much. The car on the whole going by the pictures, looks indeed a good buy, but then factor in its DEFIANLTY going to need the sills doing yet no mention of this in the add and your looking to be very disappointed if you had indeed pressed the "Buy it now" button. Had a newbie come onto the forum and seen the zed on the post, but no one had said anything about the rusty sills, then processed to buy the vehicle with the buy it now button, im sure we would all be bashing the seller for not saying about it in the add. Considering the guy has already said "im very busy" hes may not take the time out to show people the car. and even then newbies may not note to look at the rear sills as a potential rusty area (given the fact thats one of the spots any potential buyer should be paying attention too) No defence for a crappy advert regardless of the car, unless you're seriously trying to hide something from buyers in the advert. (also not many have bashed the car, most have said it doesnt look bad)

most of it is, its just finding the cause that usually ends up being the PITA that tests the hell out of your love for the car lol But at least once ive finished routing out all the issues and sorting the body work out, she should be a nice zed to own. Yep, rich, worth checking on any zed to be honest as its free and only takes 10mins Really do need to do some major rewiring though at some point. think ill wait for the new year for that and the warmer weather though.

I've had a good nose around as well, and tied back all cables that could potentially end up on the very hot parts of the engine / down pipes / turbos.

Yeah bugs the hell out of me when I have a issue, I must be sad as I can't wait to fix things when they go wrong lol

Found and fixed the problem Must of knocked the VTC solenoid connection when i had to do the water pipes at the rear of the engine, i found it melted to the turbo. rewired it, but its only a temporary fix until i can get a new connector for it. but no more blown fuse and cars now back to running correctly :D

does the passenger side open? and can you not open it from the keylock and door handle?

LED dash lights, unfortunately with lengthy talk with groover about the digital temp numbers, they are impossible to change unless you change the unit its self which displays the numbers, as i wanted to do that as well. groover is your man as far as the rear lights are concerned though.

im sorry bud id say crappy tyres to be honest rather than malfuctioning hicas, or even ice/wet road surface given its very bloody cold out there. i lost my back end just like he did last year, and it wasnt hicas that was the problem, road surface and tyres played a big part. It seems with hicas people tend to forget the things that give them grip, hicas doesnt move enough, and at the lower speeds it would of crabbed more than given opposite turn. also when spinning the rear wheels, the speedo doesnt climb fast, the rev counter does Would help if we knew what tyres he had on and how much tread. PS i love my hicas too.

whats your course of action other than 555 injectors? if its non running and water was mixing (as per the last owners post by jeff) you are either going to need to rebuild the engine or replace it.

i would be looking at your rear tyres matey, hicas kicks in at certain speeds to help cornering and lane changes, it shouldn't be working when pulling out of a junction, you may find in weather like we have had recently the road conditions are not helping, you are in a rear wheel drive car

my mistake, i actually cant remember taking any oil pipes off my N/A but do for the TT as they connect near the front of the car on the alt side of engine bay down by the rad. For my N/A im certain there was no such oil cooling.

by default the OEM engine set up doesnt have a oil cooler for the engine, it cools from the water running around the system, not sure you would want to cool the engine oil as the oil wouldn't be preforming optimally. You may find that one is a water temp gauge and the other is oil temp gauge, you most likely have atmospheric dump valves, but i cant see them from the pictures you have supplied. Not sure on the balance bar, doubt there would be anything wrong if its plumbed in correctly and from the looks of it it is. Boost gauges (after market) take there reading from vacuum created off the balance bar. The OEM one, takes the vacuum into the boost solenoid and converts it to an electric signal that goes to the dash cluster.

well, my hunch is its water related, either from the burst pipe or water on the back of the fuse box. i shall find out tomorrow if my hunch is correct.

thing is its not a 13amp fuse in the engine bay, its a 10amp and even says so on the lid, lol bloody stupid cars.

copied from the Aus site going to check my VTC solenoid on the drivers side of the engine tomorrow, i had the black sealant come away when the rear pipe split to do with the over heating problem, so that might be shorting something. looks like the eng cont fuse does a lot more than whats shown in that diagram.