vodkashots

Finally got around to fixing my sticking rev needle, much needed as well, always stuck at 4k revs thanks to the Indiglow dials i have fitted, just sanded down the under side of the needle and jobs a good un.

Basically the loom was that bad, just unplugging the injectors snapped the wires, and that was with out really touching it, so much nicer now i have a new one instead and yes, you do notice the difference, not sure if its a placebo effect or actually because as you say, the signal is a lot cleaner, but certainly felt and sounded smoother.

The one on my black zed at the moment, before i swapped it over for the new one i took off my blue zed, Jesus; surprised the car ran in all honesty, as it fell to bits when taking it off. So much better though not having to worry about engine harness issues.

I have a New wiring loom from z1, left hand drive, its a pain in the ass as its extra long near where it goes into the fire wall, back when it was on my blue car, i had a incident where i had smoke pouring out of my passenger side bonnet near the battery, it came down to the cable tie or what ever someone has used to secure it to the car had snapped and the wiring loom was resting against the turbo, luckily it only melted the hard plastic outer inclosure, it missed the heat protection wrap by around 1mm, if id left it any longer or not even noticed, id of had a very bad tangle of melted wires on a new harness. Id say getting the correct one for your car would be a better option as it reduces the risk of having extra to flop about if something gives way.

Im liking the options list, including injector plug type, and also if you have had a auto to manual conversion

Naa, just point the camera and click, 30 seconds of praying it strikes in that particular spot, which it did, though considering the amount of strikes last night, you would think i got more than just 5 shots of the stuff, but it always seemed to strike in the time period when the camera was saving that long exposure photo to memory card, damn it!

Nope, not a CCTV camera, its a Canon EOS 1000D, 30 second exposure, 400 film speed, F13 with fish eye lens.

Last night from my bedroom window.

[Youtube]7KdGLMzrc2Q

what year is your car? also the O2's are on the manifold (N/A) and turbo elbows (TT) so nope, no loosing O2 sensors.

Japspeed decats matey, and yes you can. I had japseed decat pipes on a oval mongoose exhaust system, sounded lovely

Im wondering why more people haven't thought of the raspberry pi for all your incar entertainment needs http://www.raspberrypi.org/ easy to use, easy to mod, has a SD card slot, fully modifiable, can use GPS, a camera, runs linux or can, most likely run windows too if you wanted, most certainly be able to do the web

You not heard of shagging in the shower? just make sure you got a bath mat down so no slipping lol

5 cylinders? in all honesty first thing id do is actually the cheapest option and thats run a compression test, i had 5 cylinders firing on my blue zed when i got it and it was basically no compression on cylinder 5, once thats out the way and everything is hunky dory, id start with the spark plug and work my way backwards along the route of ignition. Wireing harness, Injectors > Cylinder compression > spark plug > coil pack > CAS > PTU Wiring harness, check to make sure there is no corrosion on the connectors, pay specific attention to green powder type residue on the connections for the PTU, CAS, COIL PACKS and especially the injectors. also check to make sure the wires are intact near the connectors as well and that they are not visible and still nicely hidden inside the wire plastic. If there is significant green powder type residue, clean them off as best you can and reconnect and try again. Spark plug can be tested by resting the metal part of the plug while its still in the coil pack against the plenum and dry firing the engine (remove fuel pump fuse in small fuse box in engine bay) you will notice a spark, if not then there is something up with it, change spark plugs for a known working one and try again, if still no spark move onto the coil pack, again swap it for a known working one (you have 5 spare on the engine). Injector is easy to test if its firing, as NOZ said, start engine (obviously with the coil pack in, probably best to do this before even a compression test) place a long screw driver on the end cap of the injector and place your ear on the handle, if the injector is firing you will hear a very quick ticking noise through the screw driver. CAS is also quite easy to check, but would also help if you have a timing light, but you can always use tipex to mark its locked location before you undo anything, with engine off, 3 x 10mm bolts hold the CAS to the exhaust cam sprocket bracket, you might need to give it a bit of a tap to rotate it and loosen it, once its undone with the cable still plugged in and the ignition in the on position (engine not started for obvious reasons) rotate the spindle, you will hear each injector clicking and firing. if it kinda misses one, then the CAS could be faulty, but from past experience a faulty CAS will make your car randomly die. PTU - change PTU for a known working one to test if its the PTU at fault.

Its AH3 nissan cherry red, he just kept the paint work tip top.

But i like willy waving, especially when at home on me own and ive just got out of the shower, i like windmilling too.

doesn't that induce lag though and also put extra strain on the turbos? surely when the air stalls and then exits back out the intake side of the turbo, its not good for it, given that the OEM turbos are prone to leaking at the seals would that not be a issue?

oh and a interesting read from the scoobie forums, they also have a MAF car. http://forums.sidc.co.uk/topic/142028-dump-valves-how-they-work/

personally id go for the HKS SSQV's

They make duel piston dump valves, designed specifically for cars with MAF's, in all honesty its a mine field of arguments for and against, im yet to see a car damaged from the use of BOV's I have z1 motorsports Dump valves on mine, they make a bloody loud pssssht noise, the car doesn't die when its set up correctly (idle and what not), i did have a set that were not designed to work with a MAF and that used to make the car cut out when coming off hard throttle, if you put your foot straight on the clutch. I dont mind the OEM recircs, but i had a issue at one point with the annoying goose honk (where the diaphragm inside was giving way, so on hard boost you would hear what sounded like a goose honking lol) so changed over to dump to atmos.

having read that, you would need a hell of a lot more fuel to give bore wash and damage your rings, may as well not install the revbee limiter if that's the case, as the rev bee, retards the spark and just floods the chamber with fuel by firing the injectors still, but it does in a way so as to promote fuel ignition down the exhaust, hence flames and the loud popping associated with it, that would be more damaging to your engine than a BOV.

It was swapped with the knowledge that he was going to use it for the manual box and to strip it, glad it was saved, the engine was strong though, i got it from the outer Hebrides, and the salt water up there hadn't been very good to the old girl thats for sure.

Yeah, very first zed i owned, was silver at that point and certainly threw me into the deep end, first job i ever did on it was change the frigging engine lol, nice to see its still around, although it was quite worse for wear when i first picked it up.

No frigging way, my old 300zx NA still on the road :blink:

Honestly i wish id never scrolled down, could of at least covered that crack up.