vodkashots

this is also true but not when towing a car as a car is usually balanced correctly anyway. Careful application of the breaks and slowing down, is the correct way to recover from this, flooring it will just make it worse even though your mind would think thats the correct thing to do.

sure it wasn't blue? as i live in wellingborough, though could of been coming back from pod

your ok :) just when i first see the thread title i thought it was to do with bidding for something, all fixed now

changed title from bid to vote so there is less confusion lol

well you can always say "inner wing in the engine bay" its not about being technical its about getting people to under stand where your on about lol

BMW 3 series.

in the engine bay then, not inner wing lol

Nissans owners manual states you do not need to let the car warm up, its best to get in it and just start driving. the auto will put your car in safety boost if the oil in the gearbox isnt up to temp, once its up to temp it will switch back to normal driving, this is to protect the auto box, you could be experiencing this. When you turn the ignition on, do you get any flashing lights on the dash, especially down near the right hand pod?

that's due to excessive speed, not the tow vehicle being under powered, thats what happens when the trailer at the back gets too much turbulent air coming off the vehicle in front, thats why they limit people pulling trailers to 60mph in the UK

happy birthday bud

You might just need to replace the speed sensor matey, not sure on a auto if you can change it, ill check in the garage as i have a auto box sitting there doing nothing with its speed sensor still on it.

It could of just been a duff battery, any rechargeable battery will deplete in life expectancy due to being charged, a car battery is no different, but not holding a charge after being depleted and then recharged, id actually suspect the battery to be at fault and not due to the interior light, the interior light may have just highlighted the problem that was already there to start with and not because it was drained. when i worked in a garage the amount of times ive seen people bring battery's in due to incorrect charging, incorrect fitting, or faulty alternators, duff battery's although they happened, were not that comment to be honest.

it starts the car, never had a problem with car battery's dying due to going flat, im sure if that was the case and the problem was as bad as you state it, then there would be a lot more dead battery's out there, if you tested a battery on a drop tester, are you sure it wasn't a dodgy battery to start with? my pug 406 would drain the batter dead as well if you forgot to turn the front engine fan off (had a dodgy connection so was just wired to a switch in the dash) seriously having had dead car battery's due to failing to turn things off, I've never killed one to the point it needed replacing. i think car battery technology has moved on a lot; for what you describe not to happen that often. I'm also talking from experience of draining car batteries dry due to leaving things on. not because its faulty. charged it up, works fine. infact i still have that pug 406 battery and its managed to start my zed when i had to charge the zed battery due to leaving the PC on. and that thing had sat for almost 2 years.

Fuse for the box is in the drivers foot well, no mine wasnt showing an error code due to the ECU not having power as the fuse was blown, i had error 53 on consults, which is ECU can not talk to Auto ECU (again due to the fuse) you will know if the fuse has blown as you only have 1 2 and reverse. Again, no point asking me as i didnt have the same issue You need to do the diagnostics that andyP put up to find out what the code is for mine is still showing the code for lock up solenoid failed, but the gearbox works fine, im just stuck in safety boost with no engine error codes, and i get the lock up solenoid fault even when i reset both ecu's

Go to http://www.photobucket.com set up an account, once you have logged into photobucket, click the big UPLOAD NOW button, once its finished, click the save and continue to my album, once there you will have a thumb nail showing the image you have uploaded, hold your mouse over it and it will give a drop down box, click the code that starts with is should say "copied to clipboard", come on to the forum post you want to post the image to and right click copy, it will put the my picture code in and when you submit the post it will be displayed. well its handy but doesn't stop you posting images.

? Since when? ive had my zed battery as flat as a pancake before due to forgetting to turn the pc off in the boot, good 24 hours of charge and its been right as rain and still working fine now. A battery on a zed with enough power to put lights on your dash but not to start it will just make the starter motor click. Just out of curiosity is this a auto? if so have you checked to make sure its actually in the P position, as any other position other than N will make it not start, and you will get nothing when turning the key, not even a starter motor sound.

ive got the original bill of sale for mine, price was £37,998 off the forecourt when it was actually gray lol

My airlock wasnt an airlock as such, it was the rear pipes on the engine to matrix that were so old, they had tiny holes in them, enough to get air in, but not enough to leak water out. so when the car came up to temp the airlock would move to the rad so id get heat out of the matrix, but give it some welly and the airlock would move back into the matrix causing me to start over heating. so i highly doubt he has a airlock, its most likely either a clogged matrix or sticky valve. Use a hose and airline to blast water through the matrix, thats what i did and it cleared out all the crap (which was horrendous lol) the valve if in working order will open due to the pressure and reclose after. my heater is now working how it should with out the car over heating. Bird my first port of call if i was you, and if your car isnt over heating, would be disconnect the pipes at the rear of the engine, if they leak coolant out, then you have a sticky valve or clogged matrix, get a hose on it and flush it through BOTH ways. you will be surprised how much crap can build up in that small little radiator (heater matrix) If your car is over heating as well as giving luke warm air, id say its more airlock orientated, but if it is an airlock the air will move between the heater matrix and engine block if you give it some revs with the car up to temp, as the pump pulls the water through the engine and gives a suction effect at the heater matrix hoses.

fixed it for you, there ya go bud, you can now scroll down the page with out feeling like your in the matrix :lol:

Ive got manual turbos on my auto and its still blooming quick :)

think its 96 bud, but you need to change over the pipe work so it fits. (heater matrix)

thought i was missing something lol

groover is the TLO, but hes been away from the forum for personal reasons, the trading section was getting looked into as we are aware its out of date and needs to be addressed, but these things do no happen over night as we need to discuss any changes to see if they work out and are at least viable before implementation. Groover is well aware of this thread, there was also a reply put up by groover about the trading situation and possible changes that were going to be put forward for committee discussion.

+1 to this. I agree, i think second hand market should always be in favour of everyone. i understand jeff needs to run a business, people turn to jeff for not only second hand OEM parts but also brand new OEM parts as well as his garage services. Jeff not selling on ebay i think you are really shooting your self in the foot there matey. I still have a unanswered post regarding a relay, ok not a large part or item, might not even be that expensive, but i did inquire about it, but have had no reply. my only option then would be to find someone else willing to supply the part. i think the second hand market can not be dominated by one person or business, if i had my way id buy OEM new all the time, but truth is with today's current climate with everything costing so much, people really are feeling the pinch, so i think there is a bit more to the lack of sales in the parts department than someone else trading on the forum. (this post is in no way meant to offend anyone)