plazmaduck

Thanks Munny, it's just had an oil change according to the previous owner, by the colour of the oil I have no reason to doubt him (he also said the tapping started after the oil change) ah well, shall just have to live with it!

I've done searches for the exact location of the injectors but cannot find a diagram. Am I right in thinking they are very close to the throttle plate cover, set down with two wires running to each? If so, someone has crimped rubbish terminals to the front four which are quite loose and the revs alter if they are moved! I've re-crimped the ones that seemed worst, will have to wait for the engine to cool a bit before the others. I think new connectors might be in order.

Sounds like a cam follower to me, it's a slow tapping sound which increases with the revs. Any ideas or is this quite common?

I've spoken to the police before about towing, the car being towed is NOT covered by any of the insurance/tax/MOT of the car towing it, why would it be? Like was mentioned earlier in this thread, the only exception for that car to be on the road, is if that car has a pre-arranged MOT booking. Chances are the police wouldn't pull you over, but if you get an awkward one :cry:

I have these same import connectors. A local guy came and regassed the car with R134 gas, it seems all fine now - no mods were done and he seemed to know his stuff :)

A simple way if you don't own a multimeter is to wait til dark and see if the headlights get brighter when you rev the engine and dim again when the engine idles. Ideally for an accurate reading then the above method should be used.

It may be worth seeing if your solenoid is trying to move on unlock, it may be that the mechanism is a bit tight like mine was.

Job done. The solenoid had been replaced with an aftermarket type with additional wiring. I found the two wires to the n/s and hooked up the feed from the new solenoid :-)

Excellent work guys - thanks very much, will let you know how I get on shortly :D

So there's a module inside the drivers door that was suspect?

I'm trying to sort out the c/l on the passenger side, which hasn't worked since I've owned the car. The obvious to start with was whether the solenoid is getting a pulse/voltage supply - it isn't. I've got as far as eliminating the wiring between the car and the door as there's no pulse on the inside connectors either! Am I right in thinking the only fuses are under the bonnet? I'm struggling where to look next and am tempted to run a wire across from the drivers door!

I used to like the Zed, way back, but have got caught up with other cars, lately I've owned models such as a Jag XK8, Mitsu GTO, and quite a few V8 cars. Top Gear reminded me of the nice looks of the Zed and I started hunting for one :)

Air con re-gassed by a local trader today - all working after just a recharge :hyper: I'm a little pessimistic so will give it a few days before putting the flags out. Result if it does last @ £55.00

If you are replying to my post, you won't see any leaks - the brake fluid simply goes back into the system (bit like as if the seals aren't there) rather than forcing it forwards. I've had this before and it took a while to find. Good luck.

I think I've located the screw, I can't see clearly enough as to which cable needs unplugging (it's very busy down the back). I've unplugged what I thought might be the ICV but still cannot get the revs to lower :(

My guess would be, that if as you say there is no resistance at all on the pedal, the seals in either the master or slave cylinder have gone (the fluid just passes by the seals as opposed to applying enough force to the fork. At an educated guess, if the master is forcing the brake fluid out quite strongly from the bleed point, the slave is most likely the culprit. If the seals go in the master cylinder, you can sometimes see bubbles in the fluid reservoir when the clutch pedal is pressed. HTH.

Thanks Damo, I will try tomorrow. I've also noticed the mixture smells very rich out of the exhaust, so could be over-fuelling? It has also been de-catted, what happens with the sensors (lambda etc) when these are removed?

Thanks. I'm already impressed just by the phone call I made earlier :bow:

My car is still idling at 2000~2500 rpm's according to the rev counter - I have no real reason to doubt that it is reasonably accurate, the revs sound high too. Adjusting the TPS makes no difference at all, it fluctuates for a sec but then resumes the same rpm. The TPS no longer has the weatherproof connector, but someone has crimped connectors onto the wires which then plug into the sensor. Do these often go faulty? The A/C switch is off, and it just adds an even higher rpm! Any thoughts? I've read there is a more crude method of adjustment somewhere...this has possibly been set by a previous owner for some reason and may be worth looking at if I know where.

Have bought another switch for the hazards (to be delivered yet). The old one which I took apart had been messed with, the contacts weren't in their holder, and the latch assy was missing! I think I'm going to need spacers for the new switch to allow the travel to actuate the switch (screw columns are broken on the ends..) New aerial, passenger door lock solenoid on order too. :)

I phoned Zedworld today and they said they change the stat, inlet hoses Anti-freeze as well as the cambelt...£265 + Vat + tensioners/aux belts @ £29 each if needed. I'm mulling it over but don't really see any other option..

This seems to have disappeared now, I will have to monitor the situation with the car being new to me. I still need advice on the other Q's if anyone can help:D

Can anyone help with the other issues? The hazard switch must be an easy one for someone to answer :hyper:

What did you do that was naughty? Ask for location? Thanks smithy :-)

Hemel Hempstead. Is it quite reasonable to get to the belt? I've done a v6 Rover which was a nightmare because it was a transverse engine.