plazmaduck

Here's a piccy...

No but I think it's about time, although the rad cap is only there to let out excess pressure should it need to...there hasn't been any water released from the cap, so I guess it's probably ok.

Surely if there was a crack in the hose, tightening it wouldn't have helped? The system does pressurise, but not sure if it's enough - I would have thought the pressure would have been higher if there is a HG leak as the cylinder would be forcing air in? Do you have any good news lol!

If you pull the connector off the hazard light switch you have no indicators. On some level they have to be on the same circuit.

Thanks for the replies. This is quite strange now, I just refilled, let the air escape and kept topping up until the rad was full and seemed to hold the level, I started the car with the cap off and found it went down some more (no real surprise there) I noticed the are very small bubbles which are creating a very small amount of froth (there is no mixing of oil and/or water) and the pressure doesn't seem too high in the pipes - there's still no dripping underneath although there originally was what seemed a wet patch on the L/H side of the rad (2 or 3 drips). I did notice that the upper radiator hose seemed to have some hissing from it when I turned the engine off, now I've pinched the jubilee clip up and it no longer does it. My possible thoughts are 1) a very small head gasket leak between a cylinder and the waterways - enough to create a very small amount of froth and possibly draw water back into the bore as cooling down takes place. 2) The rad has a tiny leak which once the engine is warm enough is sufficient to dry the water as it goes. Please shoot me down in flames with these theories as I'd like a simple repair lol!

I've just discovered the rad system isn't holding water/pressure too well! I went to fill the system up and it was like a bottomless pit, I tried filling the expansion tank neck on the R/H side of the bay which did seem to drop water. Filling the rad seems to go on forever and there seems to be no-where dripping when filled from this point??? I'm guessing the right hand tank can't be pressurised, so therefore that leak is a separate issue? GAHHHH!!!

WTG Jackson! I'm surprised there weren't more bids, but I will put the cash towards a boost controller as I think this is going to be my most effective performance improvement :)

Hi Damo, the speakers are made by an American company called Jensen, model number Explorer TI900 which are 180w and sound great. See this thread http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=129646 to see what needs doing if you don't want the speakers mounted as shown above :nono:

My 6x9's don't come out any further than the original units and the shape of the original grille is just right :smash:

Exactly what I needed to know - thanks, I now need to go shopping lol!

TBH the labels talk a good game but if it has silicone in, not much weatherwise is going to get past it. Being a plumber I've tried all manner of these sealants out, but usually the basic stuff is as good as any.

As well as being new to the Zed, I'm also new to turbo's (used to V8's) and therefore know little about boost controllers. A few questions Is the boost pressure controlled from the module, or do you still need to adjust a valve located elsewhere? Do people slate the seperate boost gauge/boost valve because it's good to have a flash looking gizmo inside their car? Why are the controller modules so wildly different in price? Is there really a huge amount of gain for paying £200 over the odds of another make? I just need this basic info so I can assess fully which unit would suit my needs!

Silicone sealant is ok if you don't have any painting or spraying over that part of the surface as it will repel the paint into blobs. If you do have to spray the surface then you're better off to use 'schutz' or some paintable sealant.

I found the Japspeed to be too much noise when I first bought it, especially on the journey home. Trouble is, the sound around town was quite impressive and really did add to the performance goals I've now got a mongoose system on - I'm probably going to enjoy it more on long trips but do miss the roar the Japspeed gave off! It's all down to personal preference.

Badder, I'm looking for around the £200 mark (only months old with receipt). I have the gaskets & bolts for the back boxes to centre section, your existing bolts may be ok for the cat section. I'm based in Hemel Hempstead.

I have fitted 6x9's in my front doors today, the result is amazing! There were 6.5 'ministry of sound' speakers fitted which were hopeless. Taking about 1.5 hours in all, drilled the spot welds out and removed the outer metal layer, then used the template to mark out the new oval shape then used hand 'nibblers' to cut. When I lived in the states for a six months, I bought some speakers made by Jensen, which when I did a search on ebay, three sets came up - the ones I bought are rated at 180w Rms and cost £20 inc delivery (new old stock). Result. I finally have a Zed with worthwhile sound for little effort :hyper: P.s. I consider it worthwhile removing the fabric in the original speaker trims as it seems to block a fair bit of sound...

Interesting reading guys, I may just give it a go still, but will definitely be hanging on to my existing fan just incase!

I've always understood that the engine powered fan uses approx 4 bhp and cools regardless of whether cooling is needed or not?

cheers Ian :)

I am considering removing the viscous fan and replacing it with an electric one. Were the later model Zeds fitted with these from the factory, if so, where is the temperature switch located and is it possible to mod the earlier cars? I don't really want to go down the route of a Kenlowe fan because of the sensor which has to be inserted into a radiator hose...

Does anyone know if there is an adapter for that aerial plug, or do most people solder a new one on?

If you're set on a Japspeed, I have one on http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220468547350&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT that I have just removed from my car :)

Best place to start is with a compression test.

Thanks Zed, will give it a shot ;-)

If you don't have refrigerant in, you won't get cold air out.