DTA (UK)

Front & rear anti-sway bars - try stillen or suspension techniques - I think AndyP has a set fitted. Also, make sure your camber and caster are spot as even when cars leave the factory these settings are often wrong. Good idea re: FAQ. Cheers!

No problem Ray! Send me an e-mail on dannyzaat@yahoo.co.uk with your delivery address and I'll get back to you with info re: payment. Can be done via Paypal or cheque. Cheers!

Hi Ray, Yes, it will make a difference to your mid-range torque. The only reason why TT's will benefit more of having an aftermarket induction kit is that the increased airflow will cater for the increased air/fuel ratios required to run higher boost levels. In a nutshell, the result (for NA's and TT's alike) is more available torque in the low/mid-range. HTH.

Ok Chris - nice to speak with you earlier. Sorry for the shattering teeth and relative short call but I was outside freezing my nuts off. I'll try and sort it all for you before Friday but if that fails we'll make alternative arrangements - Leicester is not that far from where I am based. Speak soon!

Excellent! Will be waiting ... Cheers!

Absolutely no mods required. Remove old air box (can be tricky), remove MAF, bolt on A'PEXi air filter to MAF (all bolts & gasket included in package), re-install MAF and you're done. Time taken: ca. 30 minutes assuming removal of old air box is problematic. Would suggest you reset the ECU to clear any self-learn parameters. Car will then require approx. 200miles to "re-learn" settle down. Can't really give a clear figure on bhp gain as this is dependent on a lot of other factors as well. Basically, an after market induction kit will free up the breathing of the engine (ie increase the amount of air going into it) which will result (from experience) an increase in torque, especially in the mid-range. Best gains to be had if an induction kit is fitted in conjunction with a free flow stainless steel exhaust (principle: what goes in must come out). Hope this helps. Regards,

A'PEXi PowerFlow (IMHO) is the best you can get for filtration quality and increased airflow. It is a dry type filter so no problems with getting cleaning oils on the MAF's hotwire ... And on top of all that I sell them :D Give us a call on 07044016586 if you're interested: £120 delivered to your door. Cheers!

Jay, Quick Q: I am having a trade stand together with another trader (to share the high costs) - would like to know if this will be in the direct vicinity of the Z stand (would be ideal) or is that something you can not influence? Ta!

Mark & organisers: Just a quick question: Last year we managed to place all the Z traders around the Z stand which worked out fantastic! I would like to think that we can do the same this year - can you confirm? I'm going to be sending in the application for a trade stand for DTA-Motorsport in the next week or so and would like to know if there is anything I should expressly state to ensure the space is in the same location as the Z stand. Cheers!

John, Does it foul up the bonnet fitments? ie, do you need to remove some of the heat shielding in order for it not to dent the bonnet? Cheers for the info mate!

Actually Andy, I have a "Z-friendly" friend who lives/works in Tokyo. Could see if he would be willing to source and send one of these ...

Thanks Andy - I completely forgot about Kuah at SPL (I source some of our products from him ...) What he's got listed is the Okuyama strut brace though - not Carbing. As far as I can remember, the Carbing one is flat and roughly 2" wide. But could be wrong though ... Cheers mate!

Hi all, Does anyone know where I can get the above (pref. from within the UK) and approx. how much ££. Found a source in the US but they have since disappeared ... Thanks for your feedback.

Roy, Don't think anything other than a matrix swap is going to sort out your problem mate ... Personally, I would never put anything in the coolant - you know how sensitive our cars are to overheating, etc ... I've never heard of Novastop so can give you advice on that. Regards,

Mine did something similar when the car battery was very low on power. Alarm would arm/disarm but with less flashy lights and no beepy sound but the central locking would only work on the key. Might be worth checking the condition of your battery. Regards,

Berks, you're tha man! Thanks for that. I'll give you a call tomorrow (Friday) to sort things out and consider the ConZult check done! Regards, Danny ----

Got your e-mail Matt - consider it sorted! Cheers.

I can pick one up for you tomorrow morning (as I'm passing my local Nissan dealer anyway) and can post you the lot in the afternoon. E-mail me you contact details and we'll sort it out - dannyzaat@yahoo.co.uk. (or phone me on 07044016586) Alternatively, drop by your local Nissan dealer, they will have them in stock as it is the same for several vehicles in the range. Let me know what you want to do. Regards,

Get a Nissan one ... we had this debate on this forum a few days ago so I'm not going to get into this again. Just trust me ... go for genuine Nissan as they are the correct type, cheap and easy to get hold of. Also, don't forget to get a new sump plug washer. When I change my oil I usually fill the filter before putting it onto the car and then put roughly 3.5L into the engine. Run it and keep checking and topping up until the right level is reached. If you over fill with oil you can have all sorts of probs like dipsticks that pop out and spray oil all over the engine ... Cheers!

Nope, the temp needle moving up and down with accelleration/decelleration is due to the connector to the guage being loose. Open the bonnet, find the top radiator pipe and you'll see two sender units on it - one yellow (sends signal to ECU) and next to it a smaller black one (this is the sender unit for the dash guage). Pull the black one off, check for corrosion and clean if necessary and push it back on firmly. Make sure it can not wiggle around as this is what causes the dash guage to move around. Basically, when you accellerate the main fan behind the radiator spins up and causes more air to be displaces inside the engine bay. This in turn "pushes" against the sender unit which, if not attached properly, will cause the dash guage to fluctuate. It's a common problem on most 10 year+ Zeds. Boost guage should be reading near to the left most side of the boost guage on idle (ie -7mmHG on an import and -14psi on a UK spec car). Oil pressure: Change the oil (use a Nissan filter & sump plug and a good grade oil - I highly recommend Castrol Magnatec 10W40) and see what happens. Very often the stock oil pressure guage shows near to 0 oil pressure because the sender unit is knackered (new one from Nissan costs around £90). It is a design flaw and this problem is inherent to all Zeds. If your aftermarket oil pressure sender gets its readings from this unit then it is likely that it is also "reading" a low pressure whereas in reality the pressure is fine. If you want to resolve this problem, do an oil change (always a good idea), buy a new Nissan oil pressure sender or plumb the aftermarket guage in elsewhere. Hope this helped. Regards,

0.4V is a "ballpark" figure. The important bit of setting the TPS correctly is that on idle you want the position sensor "open". When you blip the accellerator you want the position sensor to be "closed". Setting the TPS is easiest if you have a ConZult attached because it shows you exactly what voltage the sensor is reading whilst you rotate the TPS (and you don't have to keep holding on to your multimeter probes while you work). As a general rule of thumb fix the TPS at the point where the revs (at idle) drop slightly. This indicates that the position sensor is "open". This may or may not be at exactly 0.4V and just to give you an indication this point is at 0.44V in my car and 0.38V in another car I've just set. If you then blip the throttle the position sensor should close straight away. So as you can see 0.4V is a ballpark figure and it is the "range" of the TPS sensor which is important to the ECU. On my car the TPS is set at 0.44V at idle and it reads 3.86V at WOT. Incedentally the marking on the TPS just above the screw is an indicator only and can be used as a point of reference when setting the TPS. Hope this helped. Regards,

Yep, very good indeed. Created from scratch and not a reworked copy of the standard Nissan chip. However, on it's own the chip is not going to give you much of an improvement over the stock chip. The JWT chip was written for the purpose of getting the fueling/timing right with increased boost. So, get the chip, get yourself some boost jets (MIG welding tips - 0.8/1.0/1.2mm) or boost controler and fit the lot (remember that your ECU will need to be socketed in order to fit the JWT chip - something I highly recommend you get done professionally to avoid ruining your ECU). Experiment with the different size boost jets until you get a reasonable amount of boost without detonation. The amount of boost you end up with varies per car. In my car 1.0mm boost jets resulted in roughly 12psi of boost however, I've seen the same amount of boost on another car coming from 1.2mm jets ... In an ideal situation you should also get an induction kit and a freeer flowing exhaust system. This will dramatically improve the breathing of the engine and thus allowing you higher boost without detonation occurring. Higher boost requires increased airflow (= induction kit) and different air/fuel/timing maps (= chip) to deal with this. All this increased air flow must go out somewhere and hence a new performance exhaust is recommended. The stock system has quite a few exit restrictions built in which will hinder the performance. If you get stuck for the chip or an induction kit I may still have a few of both items. HTH Regards, Danny PS - I think you'll find that Pete Shrimp sells "grounding" kits (not ground effect kits). These kits improve the grounding of the car which in some instances can result in beter performance of the car - some people reported a steadier idle, brighter headlights, etc - but this is entirely dependent on the condition of the original grounding points on the car. If the original points are still in good condition then adding the above kit will not improve matters measurably.

Marvelous Berks! Thanks for that - will be waiting to hear from you mate. Regards,

Hi Rich, Thanks mate! I tried this but it still won't allow you to be unsubscribed AND not to receive e-mails at the same time. These appear to be mutually exclusive conditions and you can either have one or the other but not both at the same time. Back to the drawing board! Regards,

Richard, Don't know about any Z shops in the Florida area but regarding the head unit - I've read somewhere that, like Japanese radios, the bandwidths are different in the US. You may end up needing another band expander. Not sure about this but I do seem to recall having a different frequency range on my car radio when I lived in Washington DC. Just a thought to consider before parting with your cash. BTW - posted your chrome speedometer rings this morning. Will e-mail you the tracking number for the parcel (recorded delivery). Cheers!