DTA (UK)

Karl, FYI - not all 200SX models came with a Consult plug. And the ones that did don't always have the same type plug - that's Nissan logic for you ... As far as I'm aware, only the S13, S14 and S14a have the same type DDL connector in the car. If the car you've currently got is an S12 then you're out of luck I'm afraid. CheerZ, Dan

A question to any/all website guru's ... I have come across a few websites who have managed to protect their images from downloading by right-clicking and save-as actions. Some of them just don't download at all, others put up a dialog box saying the picture is copyright protected, click ok to continue. I generally don't care if people nick images from websites (so long as they are properly credited if re-used on other websites) but one of my new projects will have images belonging to other companies. It would probably be a good idea to have something like this implemented. Any information on how I can achieve this would be most appreciated. CheerZ! Dan

Hi Pete, The system is cat-back only. However, I can get you a set of decat pipes and downpipes if you so require. What year is your Zed as it is officially not legal to remove the cats on a 1992+ car. CheerZ, Dan

FYI - Harve's "Camber Correction Kits" are now sold exclusively through DTA-Motorsport (UK). Any enquiries regarding this kit should be directed to ourselves. I currently have 5 kits left in stock priced at £50 + postage. Another "Harve" product exclusive to DTA-Motorsport (UK) are custom drilled boost jet kits. These kits will consist of profesionally designed and manufactured boost jets (not MIG welding tips) drilled to an aperature of the customer's choice. The jets have been designed taking into consideration the dynamics of air flow and guarantee optimum performance. The kit will also contain stainless steel fixing clips, the drill bit used to drill the aperature (which can be used on a periodic basis to clear the aperature of any debris) and full fitting instructions. Price TBA, details on the DTA-Motorsport (UK) website (and our section on Trader's Forum) soon. CheerZ! Dan

Hi Parzx, I sell Mongoose exhaust systems and can vouch for their quality, sound and performance. There are currently two tip designs available (1) the "stock looking" twin 3" rolled tips and (2) the new 6" x 4" oval (one tip either side of the car). I can do either system for £510 delivered and they are currently in stock. Both systems have a very nice low sounding rumble at idle (deeper than the stock system) which turns very "throaty" at full chat. I'm sure there are quite a few guys on here who are willing to testify to the great sound these systems produce. Please keep DTA-Motorsport in mind when considering ordering your exhaust system. CheerZ! Dan

Thanks for that Legrath! Yep, got loads in stock for immediate delivery. £32 + £1.50 p/p (if paying via Paypal please add £1.50 to cover fees). Cheers! Dan

Oh, they're ready Scott - I've just not got the specifics to hand. I'll get those ASAP and let you know mate! BTW - I think the record setting 1/4 mile run was done in a TT with minor mods.

I'll tell you more about the chip when I've got the final specs for the N/A. The car that set the record up in Scotland is/was a member on here some time ago and it was featured in a magazine (can't remember which one but I think it may have been Redline ...) I'll dig up the details and post later when I'm home ...

Hi Jon, If you're contemplating an induction kit then give me a shout. I sell the A'PEXi PowerFlow induction kits which are generally considered the best in the industry (best filtration and flow-thru). They're up for £100 + £5 p/p and I've got only one left in stock at the moment (more on the way). As for the chip - can do you a DTA-Motorsport N/A chip for about £65 plus £5 p/p. Although not widely advertised (yet), our chips have achieved some impressive results - including a record setting 1/4 mile run up in Scotland and various power achievements in the US. I'll be marketing these chips more prominently in a couple of weeks so stay tuned ;) Cheers! Dan

DTA-Motorsport (UK) is strictly an online retailer specialised in high performance parts for Nissan 300's and we're slowly expanding into the 350Z, Skyline and 200SX range too. I don't physical have space to work on cars as I work from home (mostly). DTA is a "by-line", I'm a management consultant by trade. I also run several other commercial websites and an SMS development company. The 200SX AFM will NOT work with the 300ZX for lots of reason but the primary being it is incompatible ...

Stoke's not too far - I'm in Studley (nearby Redditch) in Warwickshire. The ConZult can be permanently attached to the car and made to display on a tft screen (ie carputer) - no problem!

Can't remember off the top of my head whether the ECU has two or one LED - sorry. Have a look at my website (navigate to "ConZult") to read some more indepth info on what the ConZult is and also some screenshots. Yes, it will work with your 200SX so long as it has the same DDL plug. Basically (and this is a very brief overview) the ConZult allows you to monitor in real time all the car's sensors. It also allows you to perform various engine, transmission, aircon and steering diagnostics at the touch of a button. No more fiddling with the potentiometer on the ECU or digging it out from the passenger footwell. It also includes various workshop features which will allow you to make accurate adjustments to, for example, the TPS, base idle, and temporary adjustments to ignition timing and fueling parameters. Where in the Midlands are you guys based? CheerZ, Dan

Hi Karl! Don't think anyone has done a hydraulic one simply because there isn't enough space to mount the unit. I think TonyC and Cos have done a similar thing (not hydraulic thought - and in Cos's case I've even seen a baseball bat holding up his bonnet ...) I have seen a Zed with a hydraulic tailgate though - quite interesting but only feasable when you've replaced the standard spoiler (which weighs as much as South Africa) with a fiberglass jobbie. Sorry if this isn't any help but thought I'd share what I knew. CheerZ! Dan

Yes, but that's probably in conjunction with other mods. On its own the only thing you can do on a N/A chip is alter the maps slightly to make it more agressive and to allow for increased air flow from a free-flow induction kit. You can't modify them [the maps] to account for increased boost (obviously there are no waste gate actuators/turbos) so the resultant increase in bhp is marginal but the torque figure can be significantly affected (especially mid-range) which is what makes the car feel quicker/more responsive.

I absolutely second this. How many cars have I seen (during ConZult checks) with the water temp approaching boiling point and the stock gauge comfortably pointing at the mid-way point as if nothing ... Stock temp gauge is CRAP! (as is the oil pressure sender). Dan

Vern - I'm in Warwickshire so probably not that far from you. I've got a ConZult (I sell them) which we can hook up to your car to do some further testing and would be happy to help you fit the new afm when the time comes. Can also sort you out with the likes of an A'PEXi induction kit, chip (although on an N/A a chip won't make much noticeable difference) and exhaust system. CheerZ! Dan

Steve, Sorry to hijack your plea for help mate but had to ask where abouts in Russia do you do work? If in Moscow might want to ask for a small favour ... Cheers! Dan

Volvo S70-T5 or the R version ... Very respectable cars, most comfortable seats I've ever sat in and heaps of room. Oh and the R version will give a Z (in standard trim) a run for it's money ... well, it did mine anyway ... CheerZ! Dan

I stand corrected - thanks Stuart. Might be popping into my local TVR dealer next time I need new tyres then ... :D Dan

You'll be very lucky to find any S-O2's as they were discontinued over 2 years ago. I'm running Toyo Proxy's T1-S and have been pleased with it. They've been on for over a year (8k miles) and still have masses of thread - and I don't drive like a granny either! These have now also been discontinued and replaced by T1-R's which I've heard good things about. Think somebody on this forum is running these at the moment (don't know who though). My suggestion would be to find S-O3's or try the T1-R's. Merry thingy to you to! Dan

Hi Andy, You may want to pm/e-mail Eric (Lymon) - he will probably know the answer as he's the one who developed the ConZult software which does what you want. HTH Danny

You'll get a lot more use and "bang for your buck" if you go for downpipes and a decat. IMHO bov's are just for show. (ed - opens a can of worms ... LOL) Dan

FYI: PCV valves: Positive Crankcase Ventilation valves. Rather than vent excess pressure (inside the crankcase) to atmosphere, these pcv valves "recycle" the air. These valves have a limited impact on the turbos and rear seals when decatting. I think we've got a misunderstanding here. The seals Nick is on about are the rear turbo seals located at the exhaust end of the turbo. Over the years these seals deteriorate and the back pressure provided by the catalysts usually keep them in place and prevents oil from seaping through. Leaky turbo seals generally manifest themselves as blue smoke coming from one or both exhausts. Removing the cats will reduce the back pressure which "may" contribute to the seals starting to leak oil. This is generally more likely on high mileage cars or cars which are driven hard frequently. Having said that I know of decatted low mileage cars which smoke and extremely high mileage cars (268,000 kms) which don't so there's no telling what will happen if/when you de-cat. Turbo seals are a PITA to replace as, ideally, you need to get the turbos off the car. And getting to the turbos even when the engine is out of the car is a tough job at best. I hope this clarifies a few things. CheerZ, Dan

No worries Andy - it is indeed the way I've been shown to do it and have been doing it for some time now. To give some more info, I have found that many cars which pass through my hands have incorrectly set base idles. When you then proceed to set the TPS it is more than likely you'll set it at an incorrect setting. I agree that you should never fudge adjustments to achieve the desired effect and if the base idle is wrong then there are other problems present. However, to set your TPS at the correct voltage you need to have a correctly set base idle. Take for example a car I recently did a diagnostic on. Very high revving, ConZult indicated a base idle of approximately 1500rpm and a TPS setting of 0.18V! Early indications were that the TPS was faulty. I reset the base idle and then adjusted the TPS which finally settled at 0.43V. Now the engine is purring like a kitten. Just by resetting the TPS wouldn't have solved the problem. Like you said Andy, I am not having a pop at you either, just illustrating what I've been told/shown and hopefully passing on useful info. Cheers all! Danny

Alex, 1. Doing it with the engine running will make it a lot easier to "hear" when you're at the right voltage reading. 2. 0.42V is not an arbitrary figure. To set the TPS correctly you need to do three things: (a) disconnect the idle valve - this will diconnect the ECU from influencing the base idle; (b) set the base idle correctly (ca. 750rpm for a TT); and © then set the TPS. (If you had a ConZult this would be a matter of two clicks and Bob's your uncle ...) When rotating the TPS to the correct setting you will come across a point where the rpm's pick up. This is the point where the circuit is "closed". When you're at that point you need to "rewind" the TPS slightly to a point just before the rpm's increase (at this point the circuit is "open"). This is the point where the TPS is set correctly. This may or may not be at 0.42V - on my car this point is reached at 0.45V. It is not too important where this point is, it is more important that the range is ok (ie 0.42V at idle and as close to 4.0V at WOT). Now reconnect the idle valve and reset the ECU (disconnect the battery for an hour or so after you're done. Reconnect and (hopefully) notice the difference! If you perform the above adjustment with the engine off you won't know from your multi meter when you've hit the right spot. I hope the above has been of some help. Cheers mate! Danny