DBnathan

Good for me

I have mentioned this before some where else to a person having issues with a low zed Have a look here http://www.larkspeed.com/index.pl?c=GRAYSPRNGB&s=category

Im going

The drain tubes for the roof panels. the front ones run through tubes down the windscreen pillars and behind the electrics then out through the sill, these can become blocked or leaks and cause electrics to go strange. use some curtain wire to check tubes are clear, and check the fuse panel in the drivers foot well behind it if you can as well. look for any brown watery signs or the green corrosion on the terminals. hope this helps

NA manual will fit on the auto TT. if your using the NA flywheel and clutch straight on if using a TT flywheel and clutch you will need to grind an area out of the NA box to avoid it fouling on the TT flywheel. Remember to fit a Manual spigot bearing in the end of the crank and have fun removing the auto one.

For the water leak on the P/S check the drains are clear for the TTop's use some of the plastic coated net curtain wire does the job well. also check the drain tubes have not become disconnected in the sill by looking behind the fuel relay.

Im interested in this rolling road day

I resealed my drivers targa but still leaks i have found that the seal is saturated with water and i think its coming in through the seal not the joints

looks awesome mate i like that spoiler on there suits it nice. what happened with the original one you brought for it then

sorry can't edit my post here's the link to the pipes i mean. http://nissan4u.com/parts/300zx/el_z32/1990_3/type_1/body_front_roof_and_floor/front_panel_fitting/illustration_1/

If they are oval in shape about an 1inch in depth and about 1 half foot long then would go under the headlamps and feed air into the original air box, if you have an after market air intake i wouldnt worry about them i removed mine as not needed.

ive baked 2k stuff in the oven before and still using the oven, and also have a twin filter mask never had any problems, i used to work in car body repairs and the oven was recommended by them if i didnt have access to a proper bake oven. once the spray dust has settled its fine to go back in to the garage.

I had a uk zed i broke a while ago the main power wire and some of the other feeds in both the passenger and drivers footwell had corroded due to the T-tops leaking the drain tube runs right by the fuse box and wiring, I would really get the box out check and clean all the connections on the fuse box and all the connectors with a decent contact cleaner, clean you battery terminals as well. if this buzzing is coming on with the lights circuit id just check all the bulb connections as well for corrosion. Also do you have dirt shields in the wings as water could get in through the loom as it enters the car there, if extra wires have been run there at some point in time. Hope some thing helps.

I believe you can Tee into the rear hard lines for a hydrdolic handbrake as long as they dont leak and pull up even. you still have to keep the cable handbrake for road use though. this is what i have been led to understand.

try up under the 1/4 panel trims, i had a zed leak in the rear of one of mine it was coming down from the tailgate hinges and running along the panel joins.

Not good news Rob, time to pull the plugs and spin her over if she will. Hope you can get her started.

mine on the drivers side are like this with the gap, driven with a towel on my leg sometimes to avoid the wet patch lol.

Funny you should post this mine has started doing the exact same thing this morning, misfiring on 1 cylinder, I know which one just was getting dark when i got a chance to look.

At a guess id say connector plug in one of the footwells

when you changed the ecu and loom check that you havent over tightened the central bolt on the loom plug to the ecu, if over tightened will cause poor or NO connection for some of the cars systems, just needs to be nipped up not tight.

Hi Mate have you checked you have all the connectors on the rear of the plenum in their correct place, it sounds like you have a large air leak (you sorted plenum gasket) and blow on the downpipes. i would double check the wiring to each of the injector plugs, mine tested ok when off but in the process of refitting the wires on a couple broke in the casing. Causing the similar symptoms you are having. hope this is of help.

Hi Jeff where is the ps ecu and what price for one from you. thanks Nathan

hold the up or down on the window switch and with the door open move the wiring loom in the rubber boot where it enters the door, mine had a break in the wire there due to age.

Check for any little green monsters Gremlins lol But good to see you sorted one of the problems

Sounds like either an airleak causing the whistle as the turbos spool, or an cambelt bearing but it not constant