mrogers

He has moved across to the z-club.

70-80 mine runs at, but thats with a KOYO rad

cool cheers greg, noticed it was noisey tonight even when i only just got in the car. gonna replace it, just gotta figure out the loss of poswerproblem,it was fine tonight with cold dense air.

electric fan isnt on it the viscous, i know its on anyway but it seem to kick into an extra gear, when you tap the throttle, it was so loud at 1 point car sounded like a jet plane, seems as if it was running at full speed. dont know how many speeds it has but, if it is 3 and 1 is normal idle,it seem to run at speed 2 after about 10 mins and speed 3 for quite some time after i have finished driving the car hard. might just be a noisey fan but it deffo even looks like its running faster than it should. was fine before i installed the koyo rad.

Have you checked the voltage on the TPS? Clean the throttle bodies and all the electrical connectors, inc temp sensor etc.

Ohh and to double check i removed the rad cap (lot of pressure, aftermarket Greddy cap on a koyo rad) and stuck a mechanical temp guage into the water which also showed car was not running hot.

Think i have a faulty det sensor. Im sure my car is going into saftey mode in all but the Turbo's. I have a boost controller which will take away saftey boost, but ive noticed that after a while the bottom end feels sluggish, seems you need to spool the turbo's for any power, whereas other time (usually when i just get into it) the car feels very responsive. Im guessing the det sensor is kicking in and mucking up the timing, deffo no det, my car used to saftey boost all the time before i installed the boost controller, but never any sounds from the engine. Should I just bypass the sensor? and can anybody do it for me as im crap at anything electrical. Also problem number 2. My viscous fan seems to kick in way to early, driving along car sounds like a boing 747 being started up and its been pointed out that mu viscous fan is running. Now both my aftermarket water temp guage and stock temp guage show engine is running about about 70 degrees, so i cant see why fan should be kicking up? Could this and the first problem be related? maybe car thinks its hotter than it is and therefor retards itself?

So im thinking we are talking 15-16bhp per additional PSI? Stock 9 PSI being 300bhp with these mods 10 PSI or 0.689bar or 0.703 kg/cm2 = 317bhp 11 PSI or 0.758bar or 0.773 kg/cm2 = 333bhp 12 PSI or 0.827bar or 0.844 kg/cm2 = 350bhp 13 PSI or 0.896bar or 0.914 kg/cm2 = 366bhp 14 PSI or 0.965bar or 0.984 kg/cm2 = 382bhp 15 PSI or 1.03 bar or 1.05 kg/cm2 = 400bhp Sound about right?

Its seems there is a big variation in what BHP basic mods will give you. I have seen several posts advising both 340-350bhp and Near 400bhp for the exact same mods. The ones im refering to are Stock Turbo's, Engine, Intercoolers & Injectors Modified boost to 1 bar Agressive Chip (Mines, Central 20 etc) Decat + Aftermarket Free Flowing Exhaust I know there is no definitive answer as each car is different, but this is a big gap 60bhp?

u know that ride at alton towere where it hangs you over the edge waits a sec then bam off you go, well that kickdown in your auto zed, like going on the ride free and whenever u want :)

but dont you get a drop in power on the 99 spec?

look in the for sale section of this club for the best examples of zeds for sale

you will get a stunning z for that money if you want a NA (no Turbo's) then Yami has a sweet wide body one, plus theres the possibility of a V8 powered z and several nice TT's at that price.

pete what spec was your car running at the time of that video?

the 2 hoses from the engine to the heater.bulkhead always a prime area.

fresh into the country a auto will need and extra cooler. its down to what you want tbh, i prefer auto's as using the clutch and gearshift is annoying and means i have to put my pint down LOL. I dont think the Nissan Autobox is that smooth and all 3 i have had seem to have their quirks.

The std autobox is stronger than the std clutch, though the clutch is a darn sight cheaper to repace.

If you buy a J-Spec Auto factor in an upgraded oil cooler into the costing plan as without one you will find a rather heftey bill for a new gearbox. if you are viewing on take along a 10mm socket to remove the nose panel between the lights and look to see if it has 2 small radiators in the gap or just 1. if it has 2 then somebody has done this for you and thats a nice plus. though the coolers are only about 150 quid.

depends how long they have been in the country, my j spec is rusting :(

The TIM ones look close to stock if i remember correctly, Id go for water and oil temp, oil pressure and boost as a minimum

i think we should all pitch in and buy paul some masking tape LOL

nope anna's has a broken gbox, thats Pauls Car he just keeps changing colour every 5 minutes.

nice pics and great meet. thanks for orginising it dave.

the are the aiv pipes,rip them out too along with the other aiv parts located inside the wings

should be there now as going to leave fixing car till the easter weekend.