John Dixon

Lol, UP!

1 - No Idea 2 - Cat temp sensor signal conditioning box 3 - Climate control ECU

Are the injectors firing? Check that too, if not then points to CAS signal.

Lol, thats me. Most of the smoke is because the brakes are a bit locked up there! Also had a leaky rocker cover dripping onto the exhaust manifold then blowing under the car. Amazing how much smoke you get from not much oil.

Cheers fellas!

On the auto box it uses another signal but can't remember which as I hardly ever look at autos. To be honest its a bit of overkill really. In the unlikely event it goes into fail mode it will come back out when it sees some speed signal anyway.

2nd is for the PAS controller. If it sees no steering input for a set time and ano clutch or neutral switch then it goes into fail safe.

Nice one Jim, good time!

Every little bit you can do will help to be honest. Its prob too late to match the lower plenum to the heads if you already have the heads fitted but no harm in doing the rest. I wouldn't be too concerned about the plenum as a restriction, the runners I think are about the same cross sectional area as a 44mm tube so not too bad for a 500cc FI cylinder really.

If you are getting your car mapped then the only reason to fit an AFPR is if your injectors are maxed out at stock pressure. If they're not then it's just wasting money, you adjust the fuelling from the fuel map, not the injector pressure! They're often fitted if the car is not mapped as a crude way of enriching the fuelling but it's not the right way to do it - adjusts it everywhere.

Base timing should be 15 degrees when up to running temp, not 25!

It's under some load, all be it in the other direction (braking the rollers) but yes, friction will be increased with more load on it. The main culprit for losses is the tyres themselves rather than the transmission and the losses through them come mainly through deformation of the contact patch so not hugely affected by load. A good manual box has very little loss something in the order of 1-2% I belive for a good one. Point is that using this method still gives figures close to the same engine run up on an engine dyno then stuck in the car. RWHP falls over again with things like tyre size, tyre inflation, transmission temp. Lots of things affect it. Same car, two runs with the wheel/tyre size changed will give different results. Changing the diff on mine from visc to plate changed the RWHP byover 20bhp but obviously the actual power being produced by the engine was the same. I'll get some figures next time I'm playing with mine on the dyno maybe do some stuff like change tyre pressures, run in different gears etc.

Flange, it has the same (stronger) input and output flanges as the R230. See HERE

You can get plate or quaife internals for the R200. I'm looking at using an R32 GTR R200 plate in mine but its not a straight bolt in fit.

Usually you have to consider two things really: 1) Too low a gear and you keep getting wheel slip. 2) Too high a gear and you may exceed the dyno's max speed or the max speed of the tyres (had one explode on me - not funny!) If you're using a rolling road type dyno then if its a modern one the rundown should be pretty accurate so from a results point of view it doesn't really matter. What you will see which makes a mockery of the whole RWHP thing is that even with no slip if you just measure power at the wheels you get very different results for each gear due to higher frictional losses in higher gears. Its why I always quote flywheel HP, RWHP is meaningless. Had some results somewhere from an escort we did in each gear and it makes interesting reading, will see if I can dig them out.

Hi Mate, emailed you tonight. Cheers

You can do as long as you drop the boost back down to stock if it has been increased. It shouldn't make a huge difference in terms of fuel consumption though, the problem is most likely elsewhere.

I agree with Eric, actuator set wrongly. Seen this lots of times on the stock garett actuators that come with the GT28RS turbos, usually can't boost past 15psi as the exhaust gas pressure just opens the wastegate! With your aftermarket ones you should be OK as long as you have the correct springs in them and set them up properly. Also, as I said, that chip you're running is for a similar setup, NOT exactly for your car until we map it so DON'T push the boost other than for a quick test until it's mapped!

Just got to get the CAS trigger disk done now then ready to go :D

For those of you following this, have got the conversion harness ready for slick Pete's car now. A bit rough until we test it then I'll drill a hole in the case to pass the cables through to neaten it up but at least it's progress :yes: The unconnected wires are for shift light, wide-band connection, clutch switch pickup (full-throttle shift), map switching and road speed input.

The voltage only maxes out as the element is reading its max flow for a given pipe diameter: Range of voltage is 0.4-5.12v from the maf. Put the maf in a bigger pipe of diameter y instead of original x then the max airflow read at 5.12v is increased by the ratio of the areas so (x/y)^2

You won't foul up 7's using the car normally. I used to run ZFR7F-11 coppers in mine all the time and they were fine.

Remember to use the PTFE hose on the high pressure side. It runs at ~80bar so the normal 200series stuff is marginal.

Jimmy, chip should be done tomorrow, not sure when you'll get it with the Xmas break etc. Looked into the Lightening MAF and it should be good for about 700bhp and should fit quite nicely. Will see if I can get a price on it for a non-exchange part. Should be cheaper and more available than the Q45 one too.

Haven't personally done it but it should resolution wise it should be fine. Other option might be to put the Z32 maf guts in a bigger pipe or use maybe a ford lightening MAF if its cheaper. I'll see what I can find out, know the lightning one is popular as a conversion on other stuff.