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John Dixon

Dormant Member
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Everything posted by John Dixon

  1. No probs Pete, maybe that extra torque will help you burn off clios :rofl: Did you check out the part numbers on the FPR? Split up last night Jock, Pete can be VERY grateful for work done and he's more my type anyway :eek:
  2. Mine was pretty expensive because it's all 4" pipework. I'd give Leon a buzz and talk to him about what you want (I'm presuming 2x 2.5" pipework). He's in Wrexham, so a bit of a hike, but worth it for the quality.
  3. See Here
  4. John Dixon replied to a post in a topic in General Discussions - 300ZX Related
    The fluid bottle is shared with the PAS. It won't be affected though. (Unless you run out of fluid and don't know because you've shorted the connector!!)
  5. John Dixon replied to a post in a topic in General Discussions - 300ZX Related
    To disable it, you just have to make it think something is broken. Easiest way is to simulate low fluid level, so disconnect the plug with 2 wires that goes to the fluid bottle then short out the side that goes back to the loom. HICAS light should come on and no more HICAS!
  6. Sport 500's might be stock housings but there's no way the internals are the same, chack out the dyno charts - they're much stronger at the top end. They're not BB though, 530's are.
  7. Dealt with Coz at CZP a few times and he's been excellent. Worth trying Mike at MJP in UK first though, it's surprising how cheap he is for some stuff and his service is excellent too.
  8. Alright mate, Did you get the tracking sorted and how did it feel?
  9. John Dixon replied to a post in a topic in General Discussions - 300ZX Related
    Steve, you sure you've not got a knackered tie rod bush causing the judder? 3k is nothing!!
  10. Mark, worth priniting the wiring diagrams off too. Will make it easier to fault find. Should be able to check the solenoid by putting 12v across the connector and seeing if it closes. As I said, if you don't have any luck, pop back round and we'll have a go.
  11. Yeah, they look 2.5-3" won't be a problem for him to do that for you.
  12. Lol, I thought mine was OTT! What size pipe are you going to use for the actual runs from front to back?
  13. Should do Ian, you won't be disappointed. You going to join the single exit club too then?
  14. Thanks Paul. Hadn't actually !
  15. Leon at Alunox is currently using my spare engine to design some manifolds on. What I need to know is how many different compressor inlet flange types are there. As far as I can see there's the stock type (stock, JWT500/530) and the 3 hole round Mitsi (td05). How about PE1420 etc? Anybody got more info? Cheers
  16. If you've got the conZult on, wait until the engine is at ~80°C to test it. Also you can check the temp sensor by watching it warm up. Idle needs to be below 800rpm to be on the 15° site I think.
  17. Oops, yeah that would be the one!!
  18. Just stuff I've seen on TT net and 300zxclub. There was a really good thread on TT net comparing dyno charts, but there was only one each for 530 / 1420's.
  19. Just been out a spin and the turbos are boosting extra 0.7psi at same settings, so guess there's less back pressure :D
  20. You starting to waver then Mark?! Go on, you know you want to ...
  21. Had a new single exit exhaust made up on Friday by Leon at Alunox exhausts (07811 196727). This design is probably a bit OTT for most people but it sounds amazing. The fit is perfect too. Can't recommend this bloke enough - as he's a proper industrial exhaust specialist he knows about pressure drop and fluid dynamics so the design gives thought to it, no sharp bends, proper collector design, tapered steps etc. Also, the whole thing is TIG, not MIG welded and is proper 316L pipe, not cheap high carbon tube as most places use. Lending him my spare engine to jig some manifolds up on and he already has jigs for divorced flange downpipes. Here are some pics: And with markZX's car
  22. Pleased to hear you got it sorted Jay, your missus letting you keep it now then ?! For the controller, a. Personally I wouldn't bother with one on the vac line (there's no net air flow through it so it won't carry crap). You might want one on the line to the solenoid as a precaution against grit blocking it, but I didn't put one on my car - some of them are prone to cracking then you get overboost. b. you need 3-4m of 1/4" pipe, 2x 6mm tee pieces and 2x 6mm hose joiners. Also a short length (~50cm) of 3mm vacuum hose and a suitable tee piece. c. It's not a huge job, but you need to take the nose panel and the boost hoses off. Look on TT net for instructions there's a write up on there that will show you better than I could - it's got decent pictures.
  23. Grasshopper Pro Sport (traders on here)
  24. Yes and yes! Give Johnny or Matt at GPS a buzz.

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