John Dixon

Now running on 8 cyls!

Last big mechanical part done! Cheers to Leon for making it up. Just waiting on trumpets to finish it off.

Sounds like a good idea.

Don't think I'll bother. I already have a copy :tongue: But for those who don't, it's bloody good, buy it :D:D

Gubby111 got a bargain, that's for sure. One very quick Z and lovely power delivery from those sport 530's. It's kinda inspired me to get back on with mine again now!

8mm I think.

You need to put your own tee in. Put it between the fuel filter and fuel rail is the easiest.

Prob be easiest to go back to a manual clutch. Up/down shifts should be pretty easy after that I'd think. Why not buy it and see?!

Interesting! Looks like it has its own hydraulic pump so if you could figure out what all the actuators do you may have a chance of getting it to work. You could no doubt program something like the arduino board to do it crudely but manufacturers spend literally man-years getting the shift strategies on these things right. I'm guessing the BWM control unit is so integrated with the rest of the cars systems it won't easily work on its own.

Nice work! You can prob fit an inclined rad (or intercooler) like I have on mine then fit something in the original cooler locations. If it were mine I think I'd fit the rad there then a charge cooler with it's rad in the stock intercooler locations.

I've got most of the bits too if you're stuck. Cheers

As long as you get 12.9 grade you'll be fine. Namrick will probably have them on the shelf with cap head.

It'll sound NICE! Yankee V8's always do. Mine does smooth out a bit but it'll always be thrashy. You ever heard an old lambo V12 running? Has the same sort of mechanical noise as that.

The exact opposite of mine then! Clearences on mine are all at the big side of the spec to reduce friction, sounds like a bag of spanners when its cold!

Nice one Nick, bet you're on the road before me! If you are, you can always drive over to kiddy to run your's in (bring your tools ...)

Why loose the coilpacks? The coil on plug system on the Z is perfectly good - most modern cars are just switching to this system now. If you run out of spark due to very high boost you can run CDI on the packs instead of the stock inductive amps and get 1000mj per spark - that's enough spark to run a top fuel dragster! Even inductive you can crank up the dwell time enough to fire almost anything. You'll always need some form of trigger on the engine so you may as well retian the CAS. If you switch to a crank trigger you loose the ability to run sequential injection and go from a 5v open collector logic level signal to a far more inteference prone hall trigger. Also you need to make a reference for it etc. etc. Some ECU's may need a new trigger disk for the CAS depending on if they can use the nissan pattern - my emerald doesn't so made a disk with a 36-1 ford pattern on it. Pic of my trigger disk is attached to give you an idea. You can bin the AFM then use MAP or TPS/MAP for load indication. You could keep the stock loom but so much would be redundant it's not worth it unless you want to put the original stuff back when you sell it. On my VH45 I kept the section from the ignition modules to the coils and just binned the rest. It's a pretty simple wiring job if you know what you're doing.

Rich, did you get my email? Shoot me back your no. and I'll give you a call. Thanks.

Will do. Will have pics of the SWB one very soon

Cheers Rich, have mailed you.

Thanks! Is the dash out too? It will need cut through the dash but misses everything else bar the rear panels in the boot for the rear location.

OK, now having these T45, MSA Certed roll cages made. Problem is, the car being used as a jig has had to be taken back by the owner! Anyone with a LWB that fancies a cage and can get their car to Wrexham for a day?

Old fuel? Goes off surprisingly quickly. After 2 years the stuff in mine wouldn't even burn with a match thrown on it!

I put mine in the holes that the rubber bonnet stoppers fit into.

Why can't you just get a new / 2nd hand one Rob?

No, its the same as the TT system, speed related. With HICAS bypassed, the PAS should still work OK, it's becuase I've removed the engine ECU (I think) that mine is not working. Either way I need the space in the footwell so the NA one is better for me - I have engine ECU, map switching circuitry, exhaust valve controller, water pump controller and wideband unit all in there.