save-my-arse

Check that all of the shims are in and clean.

Just back from the MOT station, failed on the two outside ball joints on the Hicas. Ordered these from MJP complete with washers and seals. However I have an advisory on the front steering rack, as there is oil leaking from the gaiters. I am informed that this is probably the seals. do I renew the seals or exchange rack ? Any help most welcome

I was born during the D Day landings, work that one out and I have owned them all including the reliant robin.

Does anyone know if Jeff removes the plenum during his engine swaps?

I have a bog standard tt auto with a Zedworld replacement engine which now runs like a dream. Driven steady this car runs better than most modern saloons and is unbelievably economical.

This is where you find out how good your insurance company really are.

It looks like a total closure unit ( for the windows) for an aftermarket alarm.

Very good articles thanks.

Where are the suspect areas and what sounds am I looking for ?

This is on a 1990 auto tt all readings are good on the Datascan. Driving along at 50mph pull out to overtake, the throttle opens the auto box goes down gets ut to 70mph and then loses all power until I ease off the throttle,then the power comes back on. It's like there is a limiter or some device fitted. It doesnt happen every time usually when throttle is pushed right down. Any ideas would be most welcome as I am running out of clean knickers.:confused1:

Hi, I have the same problem apart from battery voltage and air control I struggle to know what readings to expect. Good idea.

Fitted two led rear bulbs , best 99 pence ever spent, result is brilliant posted from Hong Kong in less than a week. Well impressed.

Where did you source the LED bulbs?

:wheelchair:Mine are none to bright, any ideas on a bulb change or will cleaning the reflector suffice?

me too

Have a look in the Search box, lots of ino there.

:rockon:Cleaning the throttle bodies and air unit worked for me, did it several times then ran Datascan, now runs at steady 800 rpm and its Auto.

Datascan and leads near Beverley.

1 meg resistor now in position between 23 and 50 the ECU loom. Cleared the memory and now reads code 55, no errors. Thanks Groover, again your info was invaluable, now I can see the logic in working back to the ECU.

Cheers fellas, back to the drawing board, resistor at the ECU end then.

Yep, that's how i have wired it, it still shows code 34 0 starts when checked on the datascan. I dont think it's in safe mode as it runs ok and appears to boost. perhaps the cable to the ECU is damaged. i suppose the only way to truely remedy this is to place the 1k resisitor in the ECU between pins 23 and 50.

I have put the datascan on and still have the code 34 with 0 starts. Does the cable that goes down towards the back of the block towards the actually end up at the sensor. is it deffo the female con. that goes to the ECU ?

I am using the handbrake at the moment, not too good, yet another job for the summer. Take your point re. the footbrake, that should smooth things out a bit. Cheers.

Good points, that would explain the readings then, it's just that the car tends to jump forward in traffic when pushed from neutral into drive. Are all autos like that ?

Cleaned throttle bodies, IAA, set throttle at 0.44 all other readings on Datascan seem within reason. I cannot get the refs below 850, its a tt auto. when I remove the yellow connector the revs drop to 700, when replaced up they go again, any ideas please.