save-my-arse

Tasty ?

The one on the left, as you look at the engine bay, that sends to the ECU is damaged, anyone got a spare I could solder into the loom please.

Managed to remove all of the paint by using flap wheel in a drill right down to the rubber. I can now see the original problem with the material used. Because the paint is black I have saved cash by rubbing down the rubber and treating with" back to black",sealing the top edge with black silicone and hey presto looks half decent and no longer soaks up water. RESULT.

Thanks fellas.

Can someone show me where this is located in the engine bay , I think it needs a clean.

Brilliant idea I will try as soon as I can find the bloody car under the snow drift!

Got the TPS set correctly now and the Idle full in and it is still 1000 rpm so it looks like a leak somewhere any ideas and would this show up on a datascan?

Thanks I'll keep that offer in mind if all else fails, I'm just curious to find out why the reading is so far out yet the car runs brilliant.

Took the car out today on a road test and tickover is set at 700rpm, moved the TPS back slightly and got a reading of 8 volts. car runs great can't explain the voltage I would have expected to see 0.5 volts.

I tested it connected with ignition on, engine off and again with the engine running , the readings were the same.

I have cleaned the throttle bodies out, they were filthy, cleaned out the lines and the IAA unit, set the idle down and now running at 700 rpm and smooth. When I tested the DC Voltage from the centre pin of the TPS to the battery earth, it read 8.42 volts, any idea why ?

Thanks for that, so if I go for say the Datascan system , what does that entail, some sort of lead to plug in to the socket under the dash and then presumably another unit and lead that plugs into a laptop. I gather that these can be sourced from Blatz.

Thinking of sourcing a Conzult for my 300zx, if anyone has one can you explain how it works and where the connection plug is inside the vehicle. Please keep it simple

Thanks for the advice guys, I think I know where this is going.

The paint job on my recently sprayed spoiler has cracked with the freezing weather leaving a mess at both ends of the spoiler. I have stripped the paint back with wet and dry and this has taken off the black paint leaving a sort of white primer, funnily enough there is no primer where the paint had lifted. I intend to take off the primer with more rubbing down and then treat the rubber with some sort of silicone treatment. Has anyone used such a method and what to use to seal the edges of the spoiler which have lifted. I appreciate that I could replace it with the f/glass unit but the original seems ok.

Thanks Groover, it was a sticking relay after all.

No joy with the switch on, I suspect there is a relay somewhere or I have blown both bulbs.

Thanks for that I'll give it a go.

I have a 1990 import tt which is fitted with front fogs. I recently changed the side light bulbs in the unit for leds to match the new HID dipped beams, brilliant, the question is I noticed that fog bulbs were in their holders , wired up but do not seem to work. Is there a switch somewhere controlling these ?

Come on where is your Christmas spirit ?

Thanks Paul, all was revealed the bleep is extra exterior protection.

Thanks for the info, I eventually contacted http://www.abacuscaralarms.co.uk where you can download both user and installation manuals for most car alarms.

Has anyone got the Autowatch 160RLI system fitted on their vehicle. I am looking for a user manual as I am having problems with mine. Every time I go near the passenger side window (Closed) when the alarm is set, it gives one solitary blip. I am told it is a Cat. 1 Thatcham system with a double immobiliser. Thanks.

I have the same problem with my van. It has what it called a parasitic drain when left for three or four days. I checked the battery circuit with a multi tester and when connected in series it was showing 135 milliamps with everything switched off. The most the system can stand is 60 milliamps before draining the battery. I even pulled every fuse while the meter was connected and the 135 milliamp drain was still there. It goes to an Auto sparks next week.Get the garage to check both the battery under load and the drain at rest. Good luck.

The donor vehicle will have had a current MOT certificate.