guynkate

The first thing I would do (as I had a simular issue a few weeks ago) is to disconnect the plug to the MAF. This will put it in get me home mode (and limit the engine to 2,500 rpm) this will either confirm MAF going or that it is OK. ps. all knowledge in the above statement kindly passed to me by Jeff at Zedworld :bow: next time I will not sit at the side of a motorway for 2 hours and wait for the AA :nana2:

approx 1996 civic? :dance:

Oh heck, have a 180 mile drive (towards the east) in the Zed :rolleyes: picking someone up from stanstead on the way. Going to be a long day... :wack:

Hi and welcome, deffo the best colour :x:

I got snapped in Macclesfield a few years ago, I entered and it had just turned amber, according to the report it had been red for 3 seconds!!! :xxx:

Excellent news :nana2:

Don't want to hijack the thread but I also have the same, always get full boost for the first 10 to 15 mins then drops to +5 when warm. :( I am starting to wonder if my intercooler pipes may be the issue.

My daily driver is my Zed but it is classed as my company car, so nice tax return and fuel paid for :nana2:

Pass me the drool bucket, really like your Zed, and welcome :nana2:

I have heard of Bio-fuel cars smelling of your local take-away but I can now see that all Zed's will smell like vinegar :tongue:

Sounds good, I am up for that :nana2:

Hmm double would be my choice but came with a HKS single for free :nana2:

It was Clarkson's car that died at the start when the Stig's african cousin walked th track. :D

Welcome :hyper:

THanks got mine but was away on business :nana2:

Welcome :nana2:

Hi and welcome :nana2:

Good evening all ;) After various small corrections/ fixes I still seem to be having a boost issue. If I let my car run up to temp and then try for full boost :dance: it is there on tap but after the first 5 mins I go into safety. Any ideas?

31 :hyper:

I am an ex Honda owner and the VTEC engines are a bit mad. hit 4.5k revs and the cam pulls back to a high profile on the cam and there is no power loss all the way to the red-line but as mentioned when you get to speed the 1.6 lump looses it's grunt. A 1.6 SiR (JDM import) Civic (or Del Sol, Mk3 CRX) uses the B16a lump (which is the twin cam and a reputation for being bullet proof) produces just shy of 170bhp with OEM set-up. :wack:

I am doing a 400 mile a week in my TT auto and if I cruise at 60mph using approx £50 if I take it to 75mph moves up to £65 :nana2: but if you are heavy footed (I used nearly 1/4 tank in 30 miles with a lead foot) ;)

I agree must have been a turbo'd B16a lump to do that (or no traction but I am sure you knew if you were laying the power to the tarmac). :nana2:

Hey watch the slagging of the 100NX (from an ex 100nx owner :dance:) :wack:

Just something to add about the auto (from a fellow auto driver), one of the things I have noticed is when cold and for the first 5 mins is that the change holds a lot longer between 2nd and 3rd and when it changes you have to apply a little more throttle to keep the speed constant. Like I said, after 5 mins smooth as a nut (think there must be some temp sensor or something), you will also notice that the overdrive does not kick in until nice and warm too :wack:

Welcome matey :nana2: