damo-f

just took my car in for MOT an its failed for the rear sills being rotten. anyone know where i can get the parts from? the rear inner an outers are gone and got a few spots further along nearer the front. it'll pass for the front parts, but to be honest i'd rather just replace the whole lot now. any help would be appreciated cheers

well mines running on 19's with eibach springs (tokico shocks IIRC) and i've got to say the ride isnt bad at all and the roads round my way are shocking.

to me that looks like the oil is from above the turbo so id suspect its from a rocker cover or something. is there any smoke from under the bonnet? or is it from the exhaust?

i believe thats normally the balljoints getting sloppy that causes that. i haven't had the problem myself yet though, so don't know that much on them (can guarantee mine will go soon though just to make me find out!) Im sure someone will be along in a min whos had the problem and will tell you how hard and how its is to fix

did u adjust the screw all the way? another thing that might be worth looking at is the "cold start" thing (can't remember the name exactly) it sit in the middle at the back of the plenum. I had loads of issues with high idle and couldn't get it to settle down. I cleaned all the air control valves, but that didn't work. In the end my frustration got to me so i started tapping them and when i hit the cold start it dropped down to a proper idle Worth checking it though

I think v6's tend to smell a bit rich anyway mate, well my Z and vectra both do anyway. The de-cat shouldn't affect the lambda as they are on the downpipe off the turbos and are before the cats anyway

is the vg30det not a 12v engine where as the vg30dett is 24v?

look at the idle control valve. its near the battery mounted on the back of the plenum. if you pull the plugs off so the ecu can't control it and wind the screw in until it settles at around 750 iirc. then plug the connectors back on and see if its ok. Hope this helps

look like vtc connector to me mate

they definately did with mine. car would hardly stop when i first got it but as soon as i changed it the difference was awesome, although i did rebuild all 4 calipers and replace all disks aswell as fitting braided lines etc. as i did it all in 1 go i can't be sure how much difference each part made, but the calipers were in bad shape which definately wouldn't help. I will eventually get around to changing the calipers though as part of the disk is wasted so to speak, but the car stops brilliant now and my brakes don't look so rediculously small inside my 19's

Im sure theres no differance mate. I did mine a few months back when going to 330mm disks and had no problems (other than needing to repaint 'em cos i spilt fluid on 'em)

try this seller. I got some off him couple weeks ago and they turned up quick and fit a treat (oviously you need to get the right size for your wheels). At £5.99 delivered i thought bargain. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SPIGOT-RING-LOCATING-RING-73-1-66-1-NISSAN-SET-OF-4_W0QQitemZ280370771590QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item4147667686&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14 Hope this helps

ahhhhhh, but are you a theif? if so then yes you are a half wit. ;) If you're not then you're just like everybody else and rightly don't know 'cos you don't need to. I agree that the less people the better, as i suppose it won't be helping would be theives to target our sort of cars, but then oppertunist theives would use a brick anyway.

im sure you've got into it by now, but take a couple of wheels off it aswell as fuel relay etc cos if its stood up they may fail to start it but could always tow it away. My mate had his RS turbo towed away by theives as it was 10 feet away from their front door and had a really loud exhaust. They got underneath and cut the handbrake cable before dragging it down the road out the way where they sorted the immobiliser and went for a joy ride and then burnt it out on the roadside after! Sadly for him it wasn't insured either! Also theres a good chance it will only be stolen to break for parts, as its much harder for police etc to detect and worth more to a professional theif! On the security side though, any half wit theif can get into these cars easy. All cars of this type are quite easy to break into without smashing windows etc. So i wouldn't worry anymore than you normally would to be honest. Mine lives outside aswell but to get mine they have to move my other car (unlikely) which is parked near enough touching and then get past my cat 1 alarm which is unlikely as my phone ringing inside the car or a loud exhaust sets it off! lol anyway good luck mate

yeah you can just open it up and unscrew the sister board and underneath you'll see if its socketed and chipped or not. To be honest though it'll probably have a sticker on the cover saying the make if its chipped. If you do open it though be very careful and don't touch anything with your bare fingers as it will fry the ecu. if your unsure with electrics your best bet is to get someone in the know to take a look for you. good luck

damn, beat me to it! teach me to get distracted when typing!

can you get a charger or jump lead onto the live feed to the starter motor (oviously need to jack the car up). If you can then just earth the negative on the body. I think that should work as the live on the starter motor feeds straight to the battery (i wait to be corrected) Failing that you could try breaking in by pulling a door back or popping a window out Hope you get it sorted

i can't really tell from the pictures but i take it the shaft has snapped off?

id say the whole turbine wheel is missing?

just a note on the 5p. I did this with mine also but make sure you're careful as i manged to crack the coin with the heat and tension and then it rattled loose. I cured it by removing the bolt and pool welding the hole (with 5p still in place). I also used 5p's pool welded in to adapt the original plenum mounts after cutting and grinding the plates flat. HTH

got the same plug also, nothing connects to mine either! I've got CC which works fine so can't be that

I just drained mine from the caliper. pumped it all out then filled it again and flushed all that through then filled the bottle again and bled it up and went to the next caliper and continued as if i were just bleeding them, except pumping quite a bit of fluid through them. If you do a search it should come up for the bleeding order, can't remember off the top of my head. HTH

it should be fine. you just run a T piece to split the single pipe from the solenoid to run both actuators. iirc the twin solenoid version is only to enable you to control higher boost levels (above the spec of a standard engine with standard turbos) HTH

i only used 1.5l to flush mine through and bleed up again. tbh you should only need 2l of the stuff you want to use, unless you really wanted to be mega thorough flushing.

yeah it seems ok so won't bother playing with it for the time being but im about to start rebuilding my spare engine so it'll be useless after that with bigger injectors, turbos etc. will have to sort another after, nevermind. the rest of the cars got quite alot of SE gear on it aswell like the pipes from turbo back, intercoolers, the induction etc. cheers guys