damo-f

I've just opened up my ecu to find out exactly what chip i'm running and what its designed for but its an se-nissan chip who appear to have ceased trading? so can't find any details from them! anyway, does anybody have any idea what my chip is designed for? i.e. what mods, how aggressive it is etc. the number on it is SEZ32.460 if that helps? any help would be greatly appreciated cheers guys

its at the back of the engine. yes its worth doing, don't think it cost much (£10-£20 tops iirc)

basically if his is doing the same as mine did, when you blip the throttle as soon as you let off the engine blips itself a tiny bit more. mine was barelt enough to even notice on the rev counter but you could hear it. it was only tiny, but definately noticable and annoying!

i no exactly what you mean, its not very easy to explain but mine did the same. seems to have stopped now, but i've messed about with so many pipes looking for vac leak that i could have nudged a wire which sorted it or it could have just been my vac leak causing it. try checking all your connectors and pipes etc, might be something a tiny bit loose i suppose

ok, will have to have a look. although i don't want the other side to work, want to disable both 'cos i've got HID's fitted. any idea how to get rid of it? cheers

got a problem with my lights. if i put just side lights on the passenger side hid fires up but not drivers, i assumed this was dim dip and just drivers side didnt go for some reason. however i just went to try an solve the problem so 1st checked the voltages, drivers read 0.14 whereas the passenger side read 12.4 now if it was dim dip surely the voltage wouldn't as high as normal low beam would it? does anybody have any idea what is going on and how to sort it? thanks

about 250kg iirc mate

yeah it is a pig to do on your own, but its do-able. you really need some sort of help though 'cos the box is friggin heavy! I personally would split the box from the engine and just wedge it back out the way on a jack (thats what i did anyway)

well, mine was a right pig 1st time but basically you need to wriggle it back until the shaft is clear of the clutch housing then either drop the box or wedge it back on a jack (like i did) to save having to try and lift it back in! it will be awkward though. i found that lifting the engine slightly so that the box could tilt back made it easier aswell

i would say it was blanked off for a reason. as i said earlier im pretty sure thats where the feed to the egr is (can't check on mine to be certain as mine went in the scrap pile when i had engine out). if that is the egr feed then oviously its shot. tbh i'd just put it back how it was if the car runs worse

im pretty sure thats the EGR feed. as long as the egr has been removed and the pipe is blocked shouldn't be a problem

thats good then, just be careful 'cos mine did exactly the same after sitting for a couple of weeks the turbos worked. as soon as i put my foot down it was gone again!

i had this problem when i first got my car, no boost at all so i tested which turbo by attaching a boost gauge to the little nipple coming off the turbo hard pipes next to the rad. quickly realised it was passenger side so got another engine with turbos as my oil pressure was reading very low. pulled the engine all out only to discover that the last tit to service my car had left the plastic wrapper on the top of the oil filter, with only a small slit to allow oil past. I thought that must be the reason so cleared all my oil lines through and put new turbos on it only to discover it was still very low followed by another fried turbo (thinking it will be ok - big mistake lol). Ended up having to change the engine (i'd already bought a spare to rebuild anyway) and turbos again. Anyway, make sure you definately find the cause otherwise you might end up like me and having to pull the engine twice and looking like a right idiot! Although on the plus side i can get the engine out in 5 hours with no help at all now :D Still haven't started stripping it down yet though to find the cause but its most likely a bit of that plastic floating about in the feed on the passenger side of the block as the lines are completely clear!

its funny you say that, mine started creaking the other day ... quite a worrying sound tbh! just waiting for my new discs to arrive and now ordering pads and rebuild kit for it. Might aswell change to braided lines while im at it! I don't find my brakes are all that bad, but i definately brake earlier than with my other cars and neither of them are brilliant tbh!

I personally would try the pcv's 1st, but give it a good service at the same time. As for the fuel smell, as above. mine had a tiny drip there, couldn't see it all but could definately smell it. Only reason i found it was 'cos when the engine got hot i could see it evaporating as it dripped. HTH

as much as i'd love to mate, can't afford it and defo don't have the space for it lol. do like my gsi though, i used to think it was bad to work on but after working on the zed it seems spacious under the bonnet and cheap to repair :D

nah, give 'em to me for my GSi :D

sounds as if you spiking, possibly due to the boost controller setup? have you tried playing with settings to see if that helps? What ebc is it btw?

i've got a vectra gsi aswell! :) my flexi broke on the exhaust so its was straight out the manifolds basically! now that was an awesome sound, bit loud though! lol anyway, back on topic. My Zeds got SE straight through pipes from the turbos back with scorpion back boxes on. Both run seperate to each other, but still has V6 roar. Im not sure whether or not the pipes being connected actually makes a differance to sound or performance or not though? They are quite loud apparently, but i wouldn't say excessive. Spose it depends on how loud you want it really though? HTH

lump comes out the top the gearbox is just a pain because of the top bolts, but which ever tit owned my car before me never bothered putting them back so wasn't a problem gettin them out! main thing is that near enough everything is 12 and 14mm and a few 17mm. just make sure you've got a UJ (knuckle joint) and some long extension bars and the gearbox shouldn't be too much of a problem (the connectors are a pain - very small gap to unclip them) impact wrench is also very handy if you've got 1. putting the box back is where i struggled, 'cos laying on your back trying to wiggle and line it up is a real pita. i didn't take the box right out due to the weight and awkwardness of it, i just slid it back far enough to be out the way and wedged it up with a jack! lol anyway, good luck mate :D

I've done it twice now mate. 1st time me and my mate were head scratching for ages trying to figure it out, took a whole day! I done it the 2nd time over the weekend and had it completely out in 5 hours with no help at all. Worst part is the gearbox IMO. Also, while its out get rid of the egr and all the other crud thats not needed, makes life much easier to put it back and do work on in the future. I found this site useful http://www.ttzd.com/tech/enginetech.html hope this helps mate

lol. thats what i was doing every time i started it up. got too annoying though! easier just to change the belt (although i was swapping engines at the time :D )

try adjusting the belt so its definately the right tension. if that don't work try a new belt. if that still doesn't work then i believe i read somewhere that the pulleys can cause squeaking. mine was doin my head in aswell, but just changed the belt and its gone (old belt was f**ked!) HTH

i've got my spare engine mounted on a sealey 450kg jobby, its been on there for about a month, no problems at all. I've just got bog standard bolts holding it up and seems fine. HTH

got mine aswell. thanks