greg

use a torque convertor bolt for the auto transmission,fits the koyo a treat,ask a breaker for a spare one,or give me your addy and il post you one,cant be fairer than that greg300zx@hotmail.com

no worky bud try again

may of been told that in another way,but principle is if your having an engine rebuild it would be silly to not replace the oil pump,if it goes it means your engine goes so if your having a rebuild then best to change,but they dont often fail but same with anything mechanical it has a chance of failing

you will need someone to look it over for the noise,if your hearing a noise from the pump,then it means its working,not nesaceraly faulty you will need to lower the crossmember whilst supporting the engine to gain acsess to removing the sump,also oil return tubes from each turbo need to be removed,as does engine/gearbox brackets, as does oil cooler hoses. however it involves removing the cambelt,front crank sprocket ,oil seal.you also need to undo the oil strainer from the oil pump 3x10mm bolts to seperate it from the block this is inside sump. new gaskets for oil strainer,oil pump,oil return tubes,and re-seal sump is required

you know that!,its mainly front bumpers and there spoilers that make me :hurl:

you dont need a sump gasket,you can use engine gasket sealent,same as used on the engine sump,just make sure you do up in a criss cross pattern so it pulls back in flush

chicken legs you wish,more like pork loin and crackling with the ginger hairs protruding :x: :)

looks very nice indeed ;)

kyb all the way get some eibach springs go hand in hand together,8setting for the rear and 4 for the front,and are still comfortable yet hold the road really well,you wont be dissapointed ;)

hi liam good luck with the rex if you get it,yes they do handle damn fine in the dry,but they are like jekyl and hyde in the wet,you think a z is tail happy :D just go careful ;)

i take it that bonnet is a new thing then eric,and the wheels by the look of it?

dont worry about it mate,everyone has there own opinions on whos good and whos not everyone has good and bad experiances with traders thats life ;)

:eek: :D thanks for the welcome is there any local meets coming up soon,thanks again :hyper: :headvswal :D

smear a small amount of copper ease around the inside of the hub of the crank pulley,if it need to come off again it will come of easy,and also add some to the 27mm bolt mark the cambelt in relation to where it lines up on the bottom crank sprocket,by marking the outside of the belt with tipex that way if it moves of a tooth you can easily distinguish when it has moved around instead of needing 3 pairs of hands to get the cambelt on,use a ball joint seperator and wedge it between the flange on the oil pump that way you dont need to hold belt on at the bottom and you have both hands to easily place the cambelt on to the cam sprockets,remove ball joint seperator when your about to lift cambelt on to tensioner if your fitting new belts on the ancillaries just cut the old ones off,then when reffiting new ones,just slacken off all ajusters place belt half over PS/ALTERNATOR and turn crank sprocket with bar,the belt will pull on and all your left with is to take up the slack and tighten. also most people do this anyway but once you place waterpump pulley wheel on use 2 10mm nuts to hold plate on that way when it comes to fitting alternator belt it wont slip of pulley ,then remove nuts and refit viscous fan with all 4 nuts cheerZ smartarse :D

when i seen post i thought you wanted a 300zx manual as i have one for £70 pages are a tad dirty but has all the breakdown of the 300zx and pictures to :smw:

no this is true matey,although being a smartarse has its advantages my cuppa tea is still hot when i finish a job :D

yeh tps is worth 20-30 squid cams,sprockets,plenum,waterpipes,heads you could just list all parts on engine,and welcome offers for any available parts,saves going in the scrapper ;)

fit both clips on each hose towards the back rub a small amount of wd40 around rim of hoses and push and done less than 1min,then the microwave would of gone ping and a rustlers bbq rib roll is ready :D

thought as much :D

pmsl nowt wrong with a serial driller :rofl:

i spent just over 10k on mine,know longer own,and fook me i widh i kept the coont,lost out bigtime when i sold it :rolleyes: and an older one

you can remove autobox sump check filter and check for clenliness,and burnt fluids etc rear crank oil seal is at the rear of the engine,remove driveplate/ringgear 6x14mm bolts and the seal will become present,use a strong fine flat bladed scredriver and knock it in to the edge of the seal,pry seal out place new seal in place and use old seal as a drift hit with rubber mallet until seal is pressed in.check edging of seal for any kinks or splits that the inner spring is not exposed greg tip becareful on removing ringgear/driveplate bolts,use a good quality hardened 14mm 12point socket as these round easy,and you dont want that ;)

rear seal to the crank is a must otherwise if it starts to leak down the line it means gearbox out so whilst your there and all that

just paid my subs,can you update my details please ref greg300zx@hotmail.com cheerZ

no even nissan use sealant gasket dude