greg

you sound it mate :wack: ;)

happy birthday folks :cool:

practice makes perfect mate, on another day you could of got a better time :cool:

it can be down to a 100 factors gearbox driver :cool: ambient temp tyres etc etc timing and so on

yes andy but you need to put your z back together to warrant using any optimax :tongue: come to think of it, ummmmm.... im in the same boat :o :D

count me in mate, i may even rebuild my engine before hand depending on timing etc :wack:

chris c got plenty of that in the dam apparetly :wack:

when i had my other z i use to have to go 20miles to fill up with the stuff, problem was i was so skint i put a tenner in by the time i got home i needed to fill up again :smash:

mr duff looking for his cigs as spar is shut :smash:

markEG&mzone b2b :cool: and some dj vortex :cool:

:rolleyes: I would expect them to come around, and ask any neighbours local if they seen anything suspicious, i would have thought it was the same person mark spoke to that told him theres nothing to do for him, but instead he was jurking himself of over a ford puma and pissing tax payers money up the wall :rolleyes:

:rofl: good to see wozzy is centre of attention as per usual

be difficult being a boost leak in an NA bud :slap:

dont take your car to nissan full stop, they have a habit of pulling peoples pants down and ****ing them up the arse :rolleyes: go to a normal mot station bud

ball joint is absolutly shagged there mate, new lower link ball joint needed, normally associated with the car skipping out when you hit a divet etc do you get any rumbles from the rear[no pun unless a lamb bhuna went down bad the night before] a wheel bearing normally shows up with play from left to right, possible rumble vibration from the wheel? but as said looking at the ball joint to the hicas looks a bit excessive there limit of movement should be 0 vertical play if you pull between lower link and ball joint is there any play? if there is replace

yup, that much bigger means more air will get to it, and it holds more coolant aswell :cool:

no but it wont do it any favours with a big intercooler sat infront of it ^^as above a koyo or similar would be useful before you go down the FMIC route

just being piccy it was 98 ron lol :cool: but more fuel for the fire :dance:

wozzer what you been smoking :dance: or is it what havn't you been smoking :wack:

probably not brand new mate, i should imagine there was a problem with that head down the line, at an engineers it normally gets acid cleaned hence why it looks new :cool:

dont touch any plugs on the block :wack: secondly get car up to temp, jack up car place on axle stands, remove lower cover if its there. and carefully undo lower rad hose and pull it off watch your face when it pours out, secondly i would recomend removing the rad and cleaning it through, you will be surprised how much silt/rust sits in the bottom, attach hose pipe to top metal intake hose on engine and flush through until comes out lower return, that way your cleaning the engine through, top up a mixture 50-50 of water and antfreeze and bleed systym :cool:

normal pressure build up is due to to much oil added to engine or as you say a clogged pcv systym, resulting in pressure build up and it needs to come out somewhere so unfortunatly it chooses seals, most common one to fail is the rear main oil seal, to check if its the oil seal to the front crank, jack up front and check under lip of oil pump, if its dripping from there then you can almost guarantee its coming from there or camshaft oil seals, especiaily if it leaks between the cam covers, cambelt of to remove all seals in crank/camshafts. rear seal is either engine or gearbox out HTH greg check valves on either side of plenum, when they fail they normally fail in the closed position once pressed open they dont return, and a build up is forced back in to the intake, and as andy says check your dipstick is not being pushed out under boost or hard driving

firstly when you fitted 555s did you fit the ecu with the correct map/chip, well if you have fitted 555s then you should of swapped the ecu over, if you have put it back to standard 370c injectors have you also swapped the ecu back? if its flooding/ or strong fuel smell from exhaust its possible the o-ring to one of the injectors is pinched :wack: they are a nightmare TBH if its leaking bad smell around each injector find the one that leaking and remove and check for o ring damage, in most case you can see the leak and if its a rear one, it may leak down the back of the engine. failing that check your injector connectors, could be a poor contact to the cylinder, is the car missing on a cylinder?

or cut the dipstick off :smash: but if your keeping the old one i wouldnt recomend it :p

unsure what you mean, do you wish to remove cam sprockets?you can use a 1" spanner open end on the camshaft you will see this on the camshaft itself,you can then undo the bolt that passes through the centre of the inner cam sporckets, if you have an airgun you can wizz the bolts out without locking of the camshaft/s if you mean the journals/caps that hold the camshaft in the head's then there just 10mm regular thread