greg

at least its not the rack, count yourself lucky for that :cool:

its not the same as the s13, it does have a second UJ coming through the firewall,but most commonly the excess load is applied to the lower, best thing to do is get car up at the front, get someone to hold one wheel whilst you apply turn on steering wheel, that way you can pinpoint where excessive play is coming from. possibly rack!

its much easier with dash in chris remove 4x 12mm nuts on pedal and 1x 12mm bolt top of assembly, disconnect cotter pin/clevis pin remove pedal, you may have to loosen both 12mm nuts holding master cylinder-clutch servo/booster and out it comes greg

this might help :)

it was always worth a try :) as for idler bearing and tensioner to replace! cambelt needs to be removed anyway, so for the sake of £40 you may aswell do it, and while your there do the waterpump, as per conversation, if you say the cambelt and tensioner have been done , then just do the vvt spring's and o-rings, just make sure when you undo external plate which holds spring in place you hold some tissue under the sprocket so oil wont drip on to the belt etc, otherwise it could possibly degrade the belt and cause premature failure down the line, its not a lot anyhow :) forget the matches im sure its worth more than that, have my z if you want it has no engine and the heads are being rebuilt which has taken 2weeks longer than it should :rolleyes:

normally if its vvt spring, the noise will completly diasapear above a certain rpm, you could disconent the vvt leads from left and right bank with the car at idle, if noise disapears then you know which one has possibly failed, and replace, dont drive the car with leads disconected though as it will run like shit as there will be no variable valve timing ;)

check the fluid colour/condition if theres noises its not good and by the sounds of it autobox is dead :(

wanted to go, but iv just bought a 200sx s14a and have a few bits to bolt on, only day off so make the most of this shitty weather :wack:

happy birthday steve have a nice day :)

if you can see the timing mark use a proper timing gun, you need one which is ajustable, whilst pointing on marker, turn timing dial advance or retard via control you will then know how far out you are, if its massivly out then you may have a tooth or 2 out on one of the pulleys which means cambelt needs to be checked , if its slightly out then you can ajust via CAS if you have a cheap lightened crank pulley some of them dont have marks, which means you cant see the timing, :wack:

happy birthday dave :duffer:

it would not be cost effective to just change one, as idealy you want the engine out. a pair of turbos fitted your looking at £1500 +

you know that mush :bow:

iv had burger king, and an indian so any thought if a diet has gone out the window, however im a skinny **** so who cares :dance:

not as good as the first one :wack:

your getting smoke out of your boot? :smash: need to extend what yur saying and be a bit more precise, if your car smells of BBQ you need to check under the rear panels for a couple of Rastafrian counterparts :)

possibly realese bearing! normally a good time to get a new clutch and rear oil seal&needle bearing

have a stress free day abbi and as above ^^^ :p

yep i know but as per PM with this guy he has a high idle from cold which is normal until the control valve opens and operating temp is reached, however once car is warm his idle drops off, hence why i told him to get car up to temp, then ajust ;)

little black box on the side of the plenum which has a lead coming off it how to.. have car started and preferably at operating temp, set multimeter connect earth probe to battery terminal and with red (live probe) place in the plug trailing from the TPS middle wire, IIRC top of my head is white, you should have a reading of around 0.44v if its out by a magnitude, reajust until you get the correct output of around 0.44-0.48v at full WOW it should read approx 4v, ajustment is made by loosening the 2 small 7mm screws and turn the tps slightly until correct output is made and as per PM if the base idle is still to low reajust of the IAA unit ajustment screw as link i gave you shows you. greg

i have not heard of them, however i would gather it was similar to a jwt, as mine would overfuel with it, so possibly a mild map, it was just socketed so the ecu is not stealth just the eprom

give it some time as if there has been oil in the exhaust it may take a long time to burn off after that your looking at turbo's if it only smokes on boost or let off! :(

yep the actuator goes to the top off the strut, IIRC its one click up on the handbrake and it puts it in to sport mode.

sorry wrong person bud, i was mixing you up with rodders, apolgies :slap:

what happened with the change of oil pump?