Steams

You'd think with sills probably being the most common body part bought these days, that the would be available cheaply. Don't think you can even get a dodgy chinese copy. Doesn't make sense :confused1:

That looks cracking mate, very nice work indeed :thumbup1:

what was the problem?? I'm guessing that the porn site you were viewing had hijacked your browser? lol

your reverse lights have got a squint :blink: :lol:

At the moment I've got my temp gauge connected to the same sender as the stock one. I've compared temps with both gauges and conzult and they're reading the same.

I was looking at getting one of these http://www.edgeperformance.co.uk/view.asp?ID=799 but I don't know what size I need.....

Pretty sure that you would be getting false temp readings as the coolant will have been cooled by the rad before it's read.

Welcome matey :)

Welcome matey :)

Could be just me but it looks like the subframe isn't connected to the car :)

Judging by the pic I would say it is connected to the car let alone the box :lol:

You connect it between the headunit and amp not the speakers mate.

Don't know if it's worth much mate but by god you spoil her :lol:

These are cheaper ; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NGK-SPARK-PLUGS-PFR6B-11-LOW-PRICE-STOCK-CODE-4014-/120758770433?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c1dc89b01

Sounds like you need to get one of these; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Boss-Audio-Ground-Loop-Isolator-noise-reduction-filter-/280635332999?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item41572b5987 Had the same problem in my old gsi, plugged ones of these in the noise vanished.

You could try putting the car on ramps at the front, supposed to help air make it's way to the top point of the system (bleed screw) easier. Can't say about the thermostat, but if your wondering then it may be best to get it off and test it to see if it's opening.

Maybe an air leak somewhere on drivers side letting in slight amounts of air? Has your coolant dropped any? When i refilled mine it took nearly 14L before I managed to get all the air out and then the next day I undid the bleed screw a little and air was still hissing out. I just left it open until the hissing stopped. I've looked again for trapped air that way but so far it seems to be good and hasn't built up again. just an idea mate.

That's a good idea mate :thumbup1: Never really thought about it until now, suppose the stock one is a bit dated and weedy.

He can't he doesn't have a gear stick :lol:

no mate, maybe next year :scooter:

I don't think anybody will be able to stop you camping mate :lol:

You need to warm the engine up before doing the test to get an accurate reading.

I know it's been discussed in loads of other threads but I'm struggling with mine. I've undone the lock nut on the pedal side of the clutch booster and I need to unwind the fork a bit to raise the pedal up a bit. Manual and searches say to adjust the rod lenght by turning it with a pair of pliers. How do you do this? I can get pliers on it but there's no room to move them when you do! at the rate I'm going it'll be about 10 years before I've moved it enough:blink:. Does anyone have any tips to make this easier? Clutch works fine but the biting point is about an inch off the floor. lol

Yeah, warm the engine up. Pull the yellow plug off the IAA then set the base idle to about 700rpm. Then plug the yellow connector back in and the revs should increase to 750rpm. If nothing happens when you plug the connector back in then you either have a duff solenoid on the IAA or the wiring is faulty. Are you also able to check what the tps volts are when the throttle is closed? It should be between 0.4 - 0.5 volts but best set around 0.44 - 0.46. Check and adjust (if needed) the tps before you do the base idle on the IAA.

If I were you i'd get some new standard studs and some hubcentric spacers. More expensive but a far better option.