AndyP

You tend to get a vibration that starts above about 30mph and gets a bit worse, but can smooth out completely at certain speeds. On mine it was also worse when cold. You feel the vibes throught the seat/transmission tunnel rather than through the steering wheel. Also, it will be proportional to road speed rather than engine revs and will not disappear if you dip the clutch.

That's real doorstep service !

On two wheels ! LOL

You shoulda fixed the important bits before you did the shiny bits !! :D

I think Anders may have one for sale - try a search over the past week or so.

No snow here either, just ice - very disapointing ! :(

Following the instructions here http://home.swipnet.se/e-solutions/IdleTech.html should solve your problem.

You mean this one ? http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/fuse-translation.jpg

Looks like some of Andy Sparrows' designs to me ! http://www.bloodrunners.co.uk/bikes/index.htm

Got mine from him and also used PaylPal. I think you can also get them through Courtesy if you want, but it will cost stacks more with their $50 postage charge etc.

But surely the oil would have cooled by the time it reaches the gauge ?!?

Can't see how you could possibly need a capiliary one for oil temp, maybe for oil pressure. Unless I'm misunderstanding something here ....

Si fractum non sit, noli id reficere !

Send it to me - I'll fix it for you. PM me for details.

That's interesting because my import box was fitted to SteveR's UK car with no problems. That was a Series II onto a Series I. Is there a possibility you were sent a gearbox from a Z31 ? I have no idea whether they are even similar.

http://www.300zx.org.uk/common_part_nos.htm

Jap cars have a small oil cooler, euro spec ones are about twice the size. OEM gas is R12 for the a/c although this is now illegal in the UK The gearbox cooler (for autos) is actually part of the main rad unless you have an aftermarket jobbie.

That's because people are fundamentally optimistic and expect things to go right, and so consequently are upset when they don't.

It is very easy to get air trapped in the master cylinder and because the front of it is higher than the back (where the resovoir is attached) it tends to stay there. I reckon that by raising the back of the car a bit, say about 6-8 inches, it would help in letting the air rise up through into the resovoir, as you pump the brakes. Even so, you will still need to bleed the system to make sure there's no trapped air in the lines/calipers.

Fitting a new master cylinder is actually pretty easy, as is replacing the pistons provided in a repair kit. All the bits are unusually easy to get to. The tricky part is bleeding the system becuase due to a pretty dumb design it is VERY easy to get air trapped in the master cylinder itself. However, if you follow the instructions and try to fill it with fluif BEFORE putting it back on the car it is certainly a lot easier.

It's grim up North !

Hmmm, I recollect it being someone called Wedge, which looks pretty similar to the person who's selling it :confused:

Have you also painted/covered the other panels in the boot as mine are plain hardboard ?

I've got the Tokico adjustables (like in the ebay link) and the uprated Suspension Techniques sway bars - a huge improvment over the shagged original setup.

That double sided tape lark never worked properly for me, I now have a single screw up the top end that does most of the work, the tape just stops is rattling. Must be a lot more of a problem for people who have traditional, heavy gauges rather then the neat electronic ones we have though !