AndyP

I just got the repair kit and it was dead easy to fit. Mike Feeney has them in stock usually.

They have a permanent live, unless your one has been messed up by someone fiddling with the wiring. I think it's quite likely that yours in knackered and needs repairing.

The issue isn't about having nothing to hide, it's about what else all this useful information can be used for. It's not 'freedom' as such, it's privacy !

Really !!!! There are a few cars around with square plates - lots of the 4wd Toyota type things, Landrovers, Freelanders (?), most bikes (which also have smaller numbers), tractors, American cars and virtually all Jap import cars. All in the minority I know, but I suppose there is a slim, slim, possibility that square plates can't be read, they'd just have to be done manually I suppose. When my car was first imported they put matching square plates on the front and back. After my front plate got cracked I replaced with with a std UK plate because I thought it looked nicer.

Looks like the sort of thing that Mr CarbonFibre (Jaylox) could be making.

Try vintage restoration type places or maybe rally car parts suppliers.

http://www.elite-design.co.uk http://www.tyresave.co.uk http://www.tyres-sold-online.co.uk http://www.spitandpolish.co.uk

Yes, but only if they are 7.5" wide ....

The fronts are the same on all models, US, Jap and Euro, both for NA and TT.

You wanna close that front door mate, your heating bills will be massive ! :)

.

This place sells direct - good service too :- http://www.powerbulbs.com

Well what we need is someone with the parts CD (that'll be me) and with time (not me) to search though and see if the part numbers for those seals changed after/around 1993. Then we need to get Mike Feeney to give us a price. Actually, he could do the whole lot, if somone who needs them gives him a call.

I've just changed my name - send it to me !

Can't tell you what the difference in offset is, but they are definitely interchangeable. Have had UK spec rears on mine for about 4 years now.

Hurrah - it's just started snowing here. Going home could be fun !

Well you could follow the destructions in the manual for checking the respective belt tensions and then tighten/replace the one that is slipping.

Saw this on the Z-Car mailing list, from the Z God himself, Tom Bell. Seems like there could be modified rubber seals available for early model cars. The bulletins are linked from my site :- http://www.300zx.org.uk/service_bulletins_&_recalls.htm And this specific one is listed here :- http://www.alldata.com/TSB/41/93411236.html as:- 93156 OCT 93 Interior - Water Leaks From T-Top Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 17:55:20 -0600 From: "Bell, Tom G (IT)" Subject: RE: T-bar panels leak >Julian Murch wrote: > >Hi everyone, > >Anyone had any experience with curing the leaks around the lift out panels >on the T-bar roof. There looks to be some stick-on flat gaskets on the faces >where the locking pin comes through. Nissan issued Technical Bulletin 93156 in October, 1993 concerning the T-Bar roof seals on 1990-1991 cars. Their solution was to replace the gasket all the way around with an improved model. Considering the age of our cars today, that may be a good idea in any case. Things you can do yourself: make sure the drainage channel is clear and working: that's the little hole on the windscreen support at the corner where the T-Bar roof panel comes out. Most people suggest straightening out a wire coat hanger, padding its tip and pushing it down the hole until it's clear. Also, remove the plastic end cap from the T-Bar panel and check to see that the gasket on it is still sealing properly; ditto with the gasket where the panel rests in the windscreen frame. Otherwise, wear a slicker.... Hope this helps! Tom Bell IZCC 2802 It looks like to gain full, detailed access to this information that we need to pay $24.95 per year (http://www.alldata.com/diy/handshake.html). Perhaps we should nominate a club (if that's what we are) member to have that access and pay through club funds for access to subscribed members. - Just a thought.

£10 if it works and you're happy with it. All satisfied customers so far. BTW a new one is about £175 I'm told !!! :eek:

If it isn't you can have your money back. Removing it from the shaft might damage it though. It came off my car when I did the auto/manual conversion and it's done about 45,000 miles.

Not being a biker you would probably never have seen Andy Sparrows cartoon strips called BloodRunners. They were published in Bike magazine in the 80's/90's I think. (After the famous Ogri cartoons by Paul Sample). Sparrow is a talented man with a twisted mind. Check out some more of the cartoon strips on that website.

Read the tech article. Couldn't do it myself becuase I couldn't get the car far enough off the ground. Took my mechanic mate up the road about 40mins.

How about the prop and bearing for £50 ? Then it's a simple bolt-on jobbie and you don't need pullers to change the bearing over. Also, I'm not too far away and you can collect it quite easily.

Yup, done about 15 of them now, with only one really troublesome one !

Just remembered I have a spare front prop with a good bearing (at least it was when it was removed). And if you're interested in whats involved in the change the Aus forum has just published this :- http://www.aus300zxclub.com/tech/centre/centre.htm