AndyP

I hope they don't rust as fast as Alfa's - you can actually see them disappearing in front of your eyes ! LOL I've had Italian bikes and to honest I wouldn't trust an Italian company to wire a toaster, let alone a vehicle which might get damp occasionally !!!

Remove the fuse ! :D BTW Will have a 10 stack Kenwood CD multiplayer for sale soon if anyone is interested ...

Tried HHH a couple of years back and they gave me the runaround, followed by, can't quote on imports - gave up on them. I use http://www.lifesure.com which is underwritten by AON. Similar price, similar details to top post.

Not sure that translates here, (unless I'm just out of sync with the world!), but it sounds favourable so thanks anyway. ;)

Please do. Because if we're talking about an electolytic reaction then the way to prevent it is by ensuring that both the anode and the cathode are at the same earth potential. At the moment the matrix is electrically isolated, giving it the potential (no joke intended) to become the other half of the battery.

No ! Some cars seem to 'have' the problem and some don't. If you are a 'have', ie you have already had a heater matrix replaced, then I suggest you take both steps in order to attempt to prevent a reocurrance.

My recomendation was two-fold. Firstly add some of the anti-corrsion additive that Grant mentioned (MJP sell it) and secondly attach an earth lead specifically to the matrix itself.

Standard H1 -available in all good Halfords (if you can find one LOL) ;)

I've also collected a bunch of them here :- http://www.300zx.org.uk/magazines.htm

Relieved to hear there are no serious injuries, but a lucky escape by all accounts !

So which blue, TK3 (blue metallic) or TH1 (very dark blue), because according to my fairly extensive collection of brochues, the metallic blue was not a Series I colour. I'm sure I remember seeing your car and I had assumed it was a Series II

Didn't know that the early model was made in blue - got any photos ?

This may help a bit, but there again it may confuse more. You will also find subtle differences between UK & Jap spec, Series I & Series II etc ... http://www.300zx.org.uk/interior.htm

I think that's the thing that is supposed to detect blown bulbs and show a warning light on the instrument cluster.

Me, on the M4, at that time in the morning, with my reputation ?!? Certainly not - I was still in bed and the Zed was tucked up in the garage ! :D

Presuming we're talking about the same part, it's not the 'bush' that wears out, they are just used for bolting the top link to the car & suspension - it's the bit in the middle that gets knackered. We did discuss this ages and ages back. The real alternative is the Stillen type adjustable jobbies, if you've messed around with suspension or wheels, or the good old original Nissan part if you're all standard.

LMFAO :D:D:D:D:D:D

I first assumed he was talking about this, but I'm not so sure ... http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/tech/defroster/dashboard.htm

You have to host it somewhere and then paste in the url using the image button. Much easier to just attach it.

IIRC Fancyplates are located in N.Ireland and don't have to adhere to the same regulations as were introduced to the rest of the UK on Jan 1st !

I think the big decision here is not man/auto but turbo/non-turbo. Personal preference, but if you want a car that's cheaper to run and possibly more reliable then go for the NA. If you want a car for the power and lots of tuning potential then go for the turbo. My preference would be for the turbo, but them I'm a speed freak !

The kicker with UPS is the $50 minimum rate. USPS charges relate to size/weight like any sensible system. With UPS you will always pay the import tax, they have a department that does that and that alone. With USPS you often get away with it, partly because the shipping costs are lower (thus decreasing the overall value of tax collected) and partly because our inefficient postal system doesn't always get around to it.

Ha - I helped Grant do some of his heater matrix replacement and it's not a fun job - he removed the entire dash ! Anyone who wants to do this for a living is not normal ! ;)

Boost: Dead easy, just like you said. Water: The yellow plug is for the ECU (don't mess with it) the black plug is for the dash gauge. Oil: You could use the existing sender, but it's the sender rather than the gauge which is inaccurate, therefore you would be best off using the one that comes with the new gauge. As to whether existing senders put out signals/voltages that are compatible with the new gauges, only time or documentation will tell ... HTH

Had mine done by http://www.fancyplates.com Size for rear was 330x172mm and they fitted perfectly I also requested the 62mm high letters as they then look 'in proportion' for the oblong plate.