AndyP

It's the episode when she goes on the European Gumball Rally

Yep, they've done most of the big work on my car - autobox rebuild, cambelt/waterpump change, servicing, auto-manual gearbox conversion, painting/fitting 99 spec front and fixing the odd electrical gremlin that defeated me.

Easy peasy if you're having an alarm fitted. They just need to add an aftermarket servo to close the drivers door. Had it done on mine when I first got it. With a bit of extra work you can also have full closure which will do the windows too.

Nah, got an eff-off new one being delivered in a few days, with enough clamping force to even hold a tweaked auto engine ! ;) 350ft/lb @3250 rpm !!!

Central locking should work from the drivers side lock. You may also have remote locking, I think it may have been an optional extra. H/light dip is on the indicator stalk (forwards/back) Squeaking noise ??? Clutch release bearing ???

Not when I've fixed them they don't !!!!! ;)

Yes, this is true (currently) :confused: but it was on a different dyno, different day, different ECU map. However, the car does 'feel' faster, third gear is ballistic !! Anyway, I have never chased big power figures, just removed some of the restrictions from the car. Never the less, whichever dyno chart I look at there is still more power at the wheels than the standard car has at the flywheel, so it can't be all bad. And even though driving gently I have managed to trash a standard clutch already ! :(

I think the rides section is limited to a maximum of 1MB per person.

And what actually happens is that when the fuel temperature is higher than a predetermined value the ECU turns the P.R.V.R. (Pressure Regulator Vacuum Relief) control solenoid valve ON and raises fuel pressure.

Try here :- http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/lug.html http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/rims.html

IMO any decent turbo timer would be directly reliant upon either the water or oil temp - I don't know whether any decent turbo timers are made !! I know there are some that try to guesstimate the time based on the way in which the car has been driven over the past couple of miles, but that is not quite the same thing.

It's what you have to read in order to work out how to fix your broken auto box ! :D

The tube is in the filter, not the hose IIRC.

I don't know what it does but Nissan go to the trouble of providing it, so it must serve a purpose. I can't think of a reason as to why it might work as a restrictor, so I wouldn't have thought that removing it would improve flowrate etc. I remember JeffTT posting somethig about it in the past, with reference to the tube either being fitted incorrectly or not at all - check his old posts.

Yes, you are correct. I'm sure this is another instance where government statistics presented a confusing picture. e.g a greater proportion of accidents showed less serious injury to drivers. The fact there were more accidents overall and more third parties injured (pedestrians for example) may have been glossed over !

As the bottom of the page says it's using vBulletin Version 2.2.8 Pros & cons ? Dunno really, Craig would need to answer that - it works and loads of other forums use it, so it can't be all bad.

I seem to remember statistics being published that suggested the number of accidents increased when seatbelts were made mandatory, the thinking being that people feel safer and therefore drive more dangerously. There was also something similar which suggested 'safer' cars had moe accidents e.g. Volvo's, because the people who drive them believe the hype and therefore drive accordingly. If memory serves (and it often doesn't) Saab's are statistically the safest cars on the road, but they don't make a fuss about it..

Have a word with Leigh (on the forum here somewhere), he has some 80w bulbs which are a direct replacement for the originals and offer a good compromise in terms of light/heat. Quite a few people have them now and have reported to problems as far as I'm aware. If you have a dim brake light bulb then it is very likely that you have an earthing problem rather than a faulty bulb.

Ha, still got my old 8110 - a dinosaur special. Best phone I've ever had, although I must admit that it does need a good strong signal and my new horrid, horrid, horrid tri-band Motorola thing can be better in those circumstances (and the battery lasts longer)

Yeah, also took my spare laptop apart in an attempt to fix the messed up screen - jeez how do they put so many bits in such a small space !?! Anyway, not so successul with that job - it's still rubbish .... :-( but at least I didn't have any bits left over !

Think I may have fixed it. Took it apart yesterday (which is a bitch of a job, what with special security screws etc etc) and resoldered the wires that come in from the plug. Drove to work this morning and it didn't crap out in about 30mins, so the signs are looking promising. Hurrah !

Hopefully my TiVo will have recorded it so I can watch it frame by frame to check whether it's his or not.

Mark, You're not that far from me (nr Great Dunmow), if you want to bring the car over I'll take a look. I'm reasonably confident that we could eliminate a couple of the problems without too much trouble. PM me if you're interested, especially if you want to do it today.

The scale will be wrong, UK speedos go to 180mph, Jap to 180kph (which is what makes the conversion easy) and US to 160mph. There may be enough adjustment in a Jap/UK convertor to make it read right, but not sure. Alternative would be to buy a Jap/US convertor, not sure if Jap cars are sold in enough quantity in the US for them to be made though. Alternatively, it may be possible to rejig the speedo, but I haven't thought much about that.

Try checking the vacumn pipe that go to the brake and clutch servos, plus the boost gauge sender.