markzx

Quaife will build you a sequential box to what ever ratio's you want. I enquire about this during my tweeking madness and they quoted me £3K including bellhousing. No worrier about the System as little Red is of to be jigged next week and i may end up putting a my old TT lump in it yet. (After a full rebuild of course)

I'm not talking to you because i was going to buy this but obviously you were quicker. I'd told Old Blue, Spareparts and little Red and they were exited that another Zed would be coming to live with them for a while. Now their sad. So even if I knew I couldn't say OK then Kirbz and then CJ who wrote it off.

Hi Ste I think you find that the new third and fourth gear clusters and syncro are actually more expensive than buying a complete Brand new box which has already got the uprated items installed. Though if you can find cheeper uprated alternatives I'd love to know as I've 2 boxes that need 4th gear syncro sorting. PS have you got that exhaust system off yet. :slap: ;) :rofl:

Sound Advice.

I took my boot spoiler off one of my SWB's on Saturday and the boot nearly fly's out of my hands. The thing must have weighed 35KG. Really please that the boot had no rust in it. So I dinged the holes down and filled them with fiberglass and today i've given them a fine skim of smooth stuff ready for a final rub down.

I spent $3490 with AMZPerformance and I only paid £127 in duties ;)

I have had a similar thing and it has got worse and the power steering has become intermitant. Getting a great peck workout but not what you want. After bleeding the hole system I decided to change the pump and the rack. While the originals are off I'll see if the are salvigable.

I saw the pictures of the work Zedworld Did on Diane's car and know people who saw it in the flesh. As bad as it look on film they assured me it did not show the real extent of how bad the job was. It was very dangerous. Then I've have had loads of good help and advice from Jeff and many people are pleased with him and swear by him. I do understand why Diane would never return to him though. Andy has done a few jobs for me and I'm more than happy for him to work on my cars and can honestly tell you he does a good job. I still think Phil at C & S Wood is The man. He is a perfectionist and leaves your engine bay cleaner tidier than you deliver it to him and he fixes stuff you didn't know needed fixing all included in the price he quoted. + He is the fastest worker on a Zed i've ever seen.

I was going to say that. Had just the same thing after Phil a C & S Wood had sorted my car. He had done a few that week no problem, but J D check it with his timing light and bingo. Phil took his light to be tested and cam back with a new one.

You need to have a real drag strip type start. Loads of revs and ride the knackers off the clutch. It won't kill it. It'll just clean all shit off the plates and fire all the loose dust out. It will work like a new clutch after for about 300 miles Then you'll need to do it again. Trust me it really does work.

Yep I drove one of dave customers Supras with a OS Giken Triple and it wasn't a nice experience. Sell your flywheel and a kidney and get the Carbon carbon either the RPS or the EXedy. You know it makes sense. "Little devil sits on shoulder smiling"

thats these and not even a BB turbo and basically a t25 Garret http://www.envyperformance.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=7768

These are AB-Flug wings http://www.abflug.jp/gallery/index.html http://www.abflug.jp/gallery/photo/20050828012800.jpg

What are they based on though? Would that be based on a GT28BB?

OS Geiken twin plate is a nice clutch and would cope with you cars power out put and at £800 ish it come complete with flywheel and recon kits are easy to get hold of. Only down sides are it's heavier than standard , but so are the other 2 and it needs a real good drag strip start every 300 miles to clear all the dust and crap out to stop it being notchy. (having used the street max in Eggy's car and all puck clutches are on or off and awefull for town driving and often produce clutch judder) For about £1200 you can get the Exedy carbon carbon alloy. This takes a day to get used to because it has a very light feel. (perhaps too light) Once you are used to it it is a smooth as butter and garenteed upto 750 RWHP. I'm told from everything I read that the RPS carbon carbon is the dogs danglies and that it has more feel than the Exedy, but I've never driven a car with it so I can't say for sure but its peputation goes before it. .

What spring rates did you get. I always thought it was 12kg front and 9 rear, but was way out its more like 9 or 8kg front and 6kg rear so maybe you got too strong a spring. I'd best check that because I may have it wrong again.

Only thing I can find on Nismo Turbochargers (in English) is rhis link to envy http://www.envyperformance.com/index.cfm?currentpage=6&fuseaction=category.display&category_id=40 Others I've come up with suggests they are Nismo spec Garrets based on a gt25 bb with a max output of 280 bhp each. with transmision losses it would be hard pressed to see more than 450bhp providing all the injectors mapping etc was up to it.

I'd be very suprised if a car running a single fuel feed and through the standard balance bar fuel feeds could deliver enough fuel to generate 600bhp. By the way Mike the standard injectors are Yellow or dark Grey on the cross over series 2/3 cars. I wouldn't mind having a butchers at it purely because I've always wanted those rear arches for my Zed since about 2001. Also you must have a dyno sheet to claim those kind if figures and any car I've seen or heard of producing that kind of power has needed a couple of direct plenum injectors as well as 6 x 850cc injectors and serious aftermarket engine management.

Proberbley not ajusted the Damping. When you look at the bolts that retain the damper rods pertruding into the engine bay check to see howmuch thread of the dampin rod is pertruding through the retaining bolt. More thread = harsher damping less thread = softer damping and can make the feel a lot more comfortable. The rear is exactly the same. If they are the Tien HR's then the top of the rod has 2 flat faces at the very top so you can put a spanner on to it. Then with a ring spanner just back off the retainning bolt to soften the damping. You need the car jacked up so the suspension leg you are ajusting is not compressed. Count in full turns so you ajust all the same. + To get to the rears you'll have to remove the boot trim then the rear seat and rear door cards and finally the suspension tower trim.

It would just make the car far more posertive and more predictable handle by about 400%. The stock springs and shocks would just stop your teeth hurting every time you cross a cats eye.

Get a new rad cap.

They are the exact same ones that Chris used to sell. He had a batch that the flange one the O/S decat where it meets the down pipe was out by about 1.5 degree. I had a set and he sent them back. Pretty sure it happened with Herman Monster (Mike). He sent his back and got some with correct angle. He was anoid at rhe time because Ryan was giving him griefe because he couldn't finish his car and get it out of the way. Should have sent them back and got proper ones off him at the time. Most people jst bent them to fit.

Can you imagine the state of the brake discs and drums. What a head hache :rofl: :rofl:

Sh1t man just look at all the washing and polishing your going to have to do. Where are the keys???

Stop showing em off mark and get em on the car :rofl: :rofl: