santa

cheers..will check

I`m having this issue as well. Losing a cylinder after re-start when engines warm but cooling down after a run. Fine when cold and fine immediately after stopping. I have a brand new loom so it`s not that..traced it to no.6 ,typical, always the way! Moved the pack to another cylinder,checked the injector resistance, all ok, still drops so figuring on elec signal. Have borrowed 2 ptu`s. series one still did it. So have relocated n plumbed in a friends series 2 also totally cleaned and sealed the connections with ignition sealant. Also cleaned up the cas connections as led to believe this can cause intermittant loss. Fires up brilliantly,everything sounds good n strong. So fingers crossed when i can actually move the thing out of the ice it`ll be solved. Also got a series 2ptu on the way pour moi.

there are a couple of actuators that control the flaps/direction, could be a failed one of these..as usual total bugger to get to.Dash off in my experience.

number2..he looks very ooh matron

pheww..well that works.That needs to be the case here as well. people have to see the results of such disregard. Anyone one with an ounce of humanity would`nt wish that upon another.

snowing in essex

usually come with a little tie, you could always sow/glue some elastic in the neck of the gaiter.

All wrong.. i use a stealth zed.

That hole should have a metal pipe going up into the sill,looks like yours rusted away and somebody cut the pipe..yikes.

Hi, i`d` check the alternator loom it`s probably pretty brittle by now, and these looms don`t seem to like being disturbed. 9 times out of ten it`s a dodgy earth that causes the things to go. The online manual has the wiring diagrams.I`ve` always found the best thing is to retrace your steps, what did you disturb etc. process of elimination and a pain in the butt! Good luck.

There is another thing..on the back you`ll see a screw near the top with either a 10k 0r 100k option if memory serves, the uk uses the 10k, jap from what i`ve seen uses the other one. These go directly into the speedo unit/board, so if cannibalizing watch out for this, i`m pretty sure it affects the mph/km reading.

feckin gorgeous that is!

i think he thought it`d make it look like a veyron

if you undo the nuts engine side..yes. If you just undo the mounting nuts on the interior you can pull everything forward a bit and keep all the gas, you`ll then have to reach up behind to find the bracket holding the loom and undo the 2 nuts..jeez there`s a lot of nuts!

speedo can be dry joints, show up most when the weather gets colder as everything contracts, when it happens again give the top a wallop, if it returns probably the root cause, you can run new wires from the sender to the cluster directly if the looms an issue.heavy steering is as said, a result of no signal from the cluster to the necessary circuitry.This should resolve when the speedo`s fixed.

Sorry but everything`s crap,no good..rubbish..you`re ugly..i`m ugly..in fact everybody`s a minger..AND WE`RE ALL GONNA DIE!! That`ll be a negative then.

For the sake of a couple of bolts i found it way easier just removing it all, had no problems with moving the plugs in or out after that.I do get very short tempered with faffing about though,so this worked for me,plus i didn`t have a clue how to do the job..now i know how everything works,comes apart, goes back etc.Can totally strip the dash in half an hour now..putting it back, well that`s another story!

yep, gotta remove the fan blower & air con box, you will then have to remove a covering plate bolted to the firewall which is only accessible by removing these boxes...then, if you loosen the matrix bolts you can pull it forward to negate anything obstructing the plug.Feed it through a bit at a time. it is also necessary to undo the aircon pipes on the engine side of the fire wall to make life easier,you`ll need a bloody great spanner for that 27mm if i recall, but don`t quote me on that, check the nut diameter first.MOST importantly is take a piccie, and label everything as it comes off the engine then label the corresponding parts on the new loom.All you will have is some extra loom to fit under the battery tray..it will fit. What a difference it makes too! bon chance Monsieur Tudor.

same ugly light design as 350 370 etc

hi, it should come with the pipes, don`t tug n break anything cos you`ll bugger the box! the screw is a nightmare to get to, use a socket or ratchet spanner, it`ll have been there 15 years or so, take your time, it`s only a little one 8mm. As you found out remove the pedal, i would remove the booster too makes access to bolts etc so much easier. Good luck p.s worst comes to worst take dash out.

Ditto,unless i feel my playings lacking something, my parents really had a ear bashing when i was a teen! and as for effects..it`s all in the fingers,if you feel it, it`ll come through.Finding a cool sound or something that signifys you is important to develop,i always get asked what am i doing or what was that little sound, n to be truthful, i never really am that aware.You`ll get that from absorbing yourself and lots of playing.Get some lessons,try a teacher that will show you what YOU want n not an egotist.Have fun. :nana2:

good luck for tomorrow, you`ll be fine,just don`t fart..you can`t escape!

oh yeah..just a bit, should more or less point straight up.

the joys of travel!