EvoluZion3

Happy Birthday bud!!!

have you ever seen your old rainbow-flake black Z since you sold it mate?

Congratulations Gary! :thumbup: :thumbup:

R.I.P to the innocent, Rot in hell to the 19 terrorists.

ah sh*t sorry to hear about that mate - at least it was a relatively minor bump!

I've done over 130mph in third before (on a track day!) and there was still a bit left.

126 now! :confused: :thumbup:

glad you all had a good time - hopefully I'll get my Z fixed before the next one :pint:

I've kept it out for now. No it didn't lower the current when I removed it but I thought the fewer fuses the better (if there's nothing else on the circuit). I spent this morning removing each fuse in the footwell and checking the drain (by expertly having the multimeter face-down on the windscreen so I could look up at the current with my head almost still in the footwell!) I took out the rear wiper fuse as mine has been de-wipered, and I took out the cigarette lighter fuse, as I've never used it. However the rear demist has stopped working (even though I think the rear demist is on a separate circuit to the rear wiper, but I was reading a US fuse panel to translate the JDM one which is all in Japanese so perhaps there's a difference). I did notice that when I removed the dash light fuse the drain dropped 1A, taking a locked and alarmed car down to 0.6A which IIRC is pretty normal. The lights that run off this include my footwell neons (had them for 7 years with no probs), the backlit dash (reverse indiglo) and the backlight for my 3 gauges. However even with 1.6A or so overnight I'm sure something bizarre will happen to drain the battery again. I need to think of some way I can check the current over a 12-hour period without disturbing the car (inconveniently it's on the driveway so I can't leave the meter on it).

do i still need this after a manual conversion?

welcome!!

congratulations mate, sounds like a fantastic challenge!

thanks for the suggestion - I'll do that as a last resort - she's parked in the driveway so I don't want to leave her without alarm! :no: thanks for that - I've not inspected the footwell fuses yet so I'll give that a try later.

nope scratch that, checked her this morning and 6v - dead as a dodo. :(

RIP - he went out doing what he loved doing :bow:

That's going to be one sooty kitty when it comes out!

I really like the look of mine - the bodyshop made up a bracket and attached it to the bottom :tt1:

well Ive just been under the bonnet again - battery fully charged. I started her up and she ran fine, did the headlight test and couldn't see any brightening of the headlights under revs. I did notice that I had left my rear foglight switch on, but since I've not used the headlights for months that couldn't have been anything to do with it. While idling she was making 14v which is similar to what I get when driving off (14.2v) but then again it was a fully-charged battery so perhaps not much charging up had to occur from cranking. Either way, surely this means the alternator is ok? I put the ammeter back in series with the battery and now she's only losing 5.5A with the driver's door open, and a mere 1.6A with the door closed! :confused: :confused: I removed every fuse from the larger fuse box at the front passenger-side and the only one that drops is the smaller 10v horn fuse (drops 0.2A when out). Don't want to take her out for a drive yet, I've left her on maintenance charge again. I'll turn that off tomorrow and then see what the voltage is on Tuesday morning. If it's still up then I'll risk taking her to work! The only thing I did that could have 'fixed' it was to re-tape some of the cut wires in the engine bay and also the rear lights (I have rear fog conversion and light-up centre panel so there's plenty going on back there). I hate it when a problem goes away by itself without any explanation cos you never know what it was and when it's going to come back! Not that I'm sure it's gone away at all!!!! (fingers crossed).

yep, wet cone filter is often the cause of it suddenly cutting out for a split second - after heavy rainfall I always gradually increase the revs to check whether it'll happen with me or not. I have a vented panel so the rain can get right at the damn thing! However I've never had to take it off to dry out before - a spot of good weather and it's fine again

Happy Birthday mate! Your present should be with you any time now ;)

These calls are nothing but a pain in the a$$ and they always seem to know when you're making/having dinner or in the middle of something. Jaikai, do us all a favour and pull all the cables out :D

no I took the positive connector off and ran it in series (the multimeter tells you what to do!) BTW I'm wrapping up your pod as we speak! :turned:

yeah I thought about that one - I can never see the bloody light when the boot's down, but the lamp was cold when I first opened the boot this evening so hopefully that means the light behaves itself and goes out properly. can do Darren but not sure how to go about it? is it an underneath job? :blushing: good shout - I've just been out to check them but the levers felt in place (battery's off at the moment so couldn't tell for sure) yeah I'll give that a try just so I can eliminate it does that fact that removal of the 30A IGN / SKID fuse drops the drain mean that I don't need to check any of the other fuses (e.g. footwell) obviously with this one plugged back in?

After having a look around the engine bay I noticed this rather rubbish bit of wiring - anyone know what this connector does (it goes from two wires through the plug and then into the white line to the left), and would the broken connection in the second picture where my bottom finger is have anything to do with it? It's really fragile so I don't want to mess around with it needlessly.

Gaddammit now what!!?! The Z just drained a brand new battery in 12 hours :no: I've always had a small current which results in the battery not being able to start the car if I leave it undriven for 5 or 6 days, but after a normal drive to work it's been fine. Been like this for years. However after being left stood for a mere 4 days over the weekend, she started ok on Monday morning (a little sluggish to start but that's to be expected), fired up and got me to work no problems - handing a 350Z it's own arse in the process ;) Anyway on the way back yesterday evening I noticed that the voltage (on my Apexi turbo timer unit) was lower than normal. Normally it will show 14.2v at the start of driving, and level out to 13.7ish after a few minutes. However it never got above 13.6 and dropped to as little as 13.3 - I wasn't using lights and I even took my stereo facia out I was that concerned. Thinking the battery was starting to fail, or the alternator had packed in, I managed to get it home no problems. Passed a voltometer across the battery and got 12v. Luckily I keep one on standby (this one measured 13.6 volts) so I swapped them over, smeared a bit of Vaseline over the terminals, hooked them up and she was ok (didn't take her for a drive). Locked her up as normal. Following morning, she wouldn't even start (barely 10v in the battery), so took the standby car to work. First thing I did when I got back this evening was to put a multimeter across the battery and she's losing 25A somewhere!!! :eek: I started with the fuses in the engine bay behind the steering wheel, and when I remove the 30A IGN / SKID fuse the current immediately drops to 0.6A. I've not had time to look at any other fuses, I've left the positive off and put her on maintenance charge until I can get to the bottom of it. Can anyone suggest the next course of action - is it worth putting the IGN / SKID fuse back in and continuing with the footwell fuses, or is this as far as I can get? If so where would I start looking next?