Noz

Only actual fact & empirical data in this thread! :D

Kickdown to 3rd (1:1). When an automatic is on a dyno and there is no way of locking the box into a specified gear, you start it at 3k RPM as it helps to force kickdown to 3rd. Didn't have time to disconnect the kickdown switch, and have not looked into if this is feasible (but can't think why it wouldn't be). Results in line with a 110mph 1/4 terminal with a lardy 300zx.

Didn't seem keen? Mate, I love mapping cars, I live & breathe it lol. Was that the day I was enroute to a wedding 170 miles away after 3hrs sleep? Hectic times! Good old S13s: 383bhp & 326lbft @ the hubs, standard 1.8L engine, still going strong as far as I'm aware. Sheesh, that's more power than this 3L V6 TT. Guess I'm going to have to pull the engine and fit twin HX30s....

Haha, impatient! Dynocom dyno.

Mate, I thought you knew I mapped cars, been using NIStune for years and before real-time mapping became available, it was chip burning & emulators (2005) with the S13 & Cossies. A good percentage of old school Nissans will be running one of my chips at the very least! I've just never advertised the fact as I only ever used the road which is sketchy at best, so recently been using Santa Pod. Full dyno set-up as well now though, so all bases covered :cool3:

Finally got chance to do a bit of tweaking on the dyno: 394.4 bhp & 410.2 lbft (fly) 342.9 whp & 372.9 lbft (wheels) Stock engine, Auto turbos, stock intercoolers, stock exhaust system inc. cats with aftermarket backboxes, stock 370cc injectors at stock fuel pressure. Just air filters, one of my boost controllers, back boxes and mapping voodoo :ninja: Still got more to go. Not bad for a chip, eh?

I was spinning up holding it at just 3k RPM, let alone flooring it. Traction wasn't great :(

Hahaha, good to see you again mate Auto, 225/55/16 Acceleras, full interior, cats. HKS air filters, back boxes, manual boost controller, shed loads of boost and NIStune. I may try and hit the 12s next weekend with some 17x9.5 alloys, 275/45 tyres and a more aggressive map, but it's the mostly stock exhaust system and tiny Auto turbos that are the real problem.

Other than a piggy-back solution (Unichip, SAFC etc), the only way to adjust fueling & timing in real time is with a mappable ECU set-up. NIStune, for example is the most common way nowadays when working with the stock ECU, but you can also use EPROM emulators (which is what I use along with NIStune software for my Zed). These turn a stock ECU into a mappable ECU. An uprated map contained on a replacement chip cannot be adjusted on the rolling road, the same as a standard chip can't.

Service manuals mate.

Decent chip will get you 350bhp with ease. For 400, I would personally have it mapped on the road.

No way of telling if it's suitable unless the map is looked at. Even if someone else has the same labelled chip, there's no guarantee the data is the same. Don't mind doing this for you, but it would require you to either send the chip to me or have it read in an EPROM programmer and to then email me the BIN file.

It really depends on what you are after. There are plenty of options though, even having your car "remote-mapped" from logs, which sits part-way between a generic chip and a live map on both the road and dyno. The downside of this is optimising the timing map. You need the dyno for that. If you're looking to push things, find a tuner you are happy with and speak to them about it. If you just want to run 1 bar on a generic chip, it's just a case of fitting said chip, upping the boost and forgetting about it (assuming the chip contains a good map). There are thousands upon thousands of cars out there running generic maps. You can't beat a custom tune though, and when you push things, it's a requisite.

Simple: Depends on the chip. Nothing more, nothing less. They will have specified a boost level and it should be stuck to.

What I got from various logs over the year was that they lean out in the mid range at WOT, but this is only due to a certain parameter in the ECU programming. Top end was marginal, but safe. Mid range it was dangerously lean, most notably as the 'box shifted into top. But it's all down to the mapping, the stock fuel system at standard fuel pressure is adequate on the Autos for over 1.4 bar. Just... No problem at all at 1 bar, though. The stock ECU uses O2 feedback quite far into the spool-up (transistonal) areas of the fuel map. I'm not a fan of this, it's much better to be around 12.5-13.5 coming onto boost than 14.7:1 IMO. I've found a lot of chips retain this feature, it's not ideal. Without good mapping and monitoring of AFRs, it's not possible to run decent boost safely. Not forgetting the timing side of things, I also use cold-running plugs and know that everything is spot-on, especially base timing. I can't drive a modified turbo car without my wideband, it's a gauge every car should have. Plus I have a finely-tuned ear for detonation (and det cans) :biggrin: Definitely don't let your standard or 'Stage 1' car hit anywhere near 1.4 bar and expect it to survive very long!

I can't see any reason why a decent turbocharged Nissan (Japanese in general) engine can't make double the factory figures with a large enough turbo, suitable fueling, intercooling & mapping. Done it myself with a few cars.

It's running the standard fuel pressure regulator & standard pressure. I would never let a car boost to 1.4 bar unless the ECU is running a suitable chip.

There's not really much more to add buddy, fact is there is plenty of fueling available for 1 bar. I've run 280-290bhp on the 4 cyl SR20DET with 370cc injectors numerous times, 430bhp on a 6 cyl VG30 will be within reason, and to add a greater margin of safety, no reason why you can't simply fit an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, increase the fuel pressure slightly and map accordingly. I've been running my Auto at a minimum of 1.2 bar since I bought the car in December 2011, nearly a year. It's my daily driver, as well. The maximum output voltage of the MAF in the above log is just under 4.6v, this gives a good indication of the power you can achieve even with the stock Auto turbos.

Bigger turbos & injectors are the way to go for reliable big power but that's a considerable task and costs a lot of time and/or money. Intake air temps aren't going to be great, but I've ran similar-sized turbos at similar pressures and they haven't been too bad. Longevity of the turbos could be a worry, and I wouldn't track the car in this set up. The engine will be fine, they can handle anything a couple of T25s can throw at them. It's all in the mapping :D As for power, no idea. Ran a 110mph terminal at lower boost earlier this year with a full-weight car and generic map I made a long time ago. Probably at the dyno this week, so may stick it on then.

Thought I'd have a bit of an investigation into the limits of the stock turbo & fueling system in my TT Auto: Result: The map is just a work in progress I created recently. Max duty on the stock 370cc injectors at stock fuel pressure was 94% at the highlighted point with a nice 'safe' AFR of 11.89:1. 1.4 bar was the maximum boost pressure in the mid range, as RPM increases the tubbies cannot produce anywhere near this boost (yes, I know they are being pushed to the ragged edge). Still running stock elbows, downpipes, cats & SMICs. I personally don't mind running injectors at 90%+ duty, I have done it for years on various vehicles, but lower obviously means less heat. Honda run their injectors at 100% in WOT conditions, apparently. I normally run my own cars leaner at 12.2:1 which would give some more headroom with regards to duty and a few more BHP. I have read a lot of reports with people stating stock injectors max out at 14/15/16/17 psi, but they don't. Leaning out under boost with stock turbos at anything less than circa 1.5 bar (bear in mind the turbos will not be producing this at high revs) is due to the OEM ECU programming, not maxing out the injectors IMO.

Hey mate, just realised you've got me down twice. I'm not 100% bringing the MR2.

Conzult, Datascan, ECUTalk, NATSync (for syncing NATSII-equipped vehicle ECUs & keys), TunerPro RT, NIStune. Also: ScanMaster, AutoEnginuity's ScanTool, ScanXL, VAGCOM et al. Pretty much every single piece of software for all OBDII protocols & vehicles. Cables/tools for everything. Not sure what use software is without the leads :laugh: Stick me on the list, Noz: Leicestershire :thumbup1:

I've not been on a stand at Pod for years, always too busy hammering down the strip. I'll be mapping the Zed for some WOT pulls down the 1/4 though. Might even fit my adjustable FPR tomorrow. Looking forward to this a lot. Wish my car was better looking :hammer:

Can I have a stand pass please? The car doesn't look too clever, but find me a quicker Auto TT on stock turbos & injectors :cool3: Got a bloody wedding to go to on Saturday in North Yorkshire, so an early start for me on Sunday and unlikely to get there before 10am. Looking to break into the 12s with the Zed... And I might bring along the MR2 as well.

Heh, hardly dude, it was tongue-in-cheek :)