Noz

Calm down fella. Of course the list of codes is taken from various online sources, they are provided here in order to help. The codes given ARE correct. It is information to help him find the issue, and general information as he has just bought the car. I myself have never used the Self Diag mode as I have umpteen programs that communicate directly with nearly any ECU from any manufacturer. If he's ever nearby to me, he is more than welcome to pop on over and I will gladly hook up my laptop to see if there's anything amiss, or check over the ECU itself. The rest of the post is from my experience with the Zed and Nissans in general. I've just been outside and disconnected the MAF plug whilst the car was running, and the CEL remained off, which does indeed mean that you won't get a CEL when driving. So, please ignore the bold in the list. The list that I didn't compile from memory. Shock horror :laugh: I don't know all the OBDII codes off by heart either! The shame! And Jiff, it's "NOZ". Ta.

Interesting! What's the part number of the ECU? You can enter Self Diag. mode by bridging 2 pins of the Consult socket under the dash. As you look at the plug, hold it so the rounded end is to the right. You would then bridge the 2 left-hand pins on the bottom row. | - | - | - | - | - ) |0 |0 | - | - | - ) ^^ God knows what that will look like, but it should make sense :D

No, don't just reset the ECU, find out what the code is first! It's happened for a reason and it's a 5 minute job. The ECU is located in the passenger-side footwell. Pull back the carpet (velcroed in place), undo 4 bolts holding the wooden kickplate in place. ECU is revealed! On the RHS of the ECU you will find the Self-Diagnostic screw, and to the right of this you will see a small window housing a red LED. Turn ign to ACC (don't start the car). The LED will light up and you will have lights on the dash, the important one being the Check Engine Light (CEL). Using a flat-head screwdriver, rotate the ECU screw fully clockwise, keep it there for 3 secs, then rotate it fully anti-clockwise to its original position (Remember this sequence) The LED & CEL will both start to blink, beginning with long flashes, followed by short ones. Here are the codes: 11: Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) Circuit 12: Air Flow Meter Circuit (AFM/MAF) 13: Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor Circuit 14: Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit 21: Ignition Signal Circuit 26: Boost Pressure Sensor 31: ECU 32: Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Function 33: Exhaust Gas Sensor Circuit (Lambda) (Left) 34: Detonation Sensor Circuit 35: Exhaust Gas Temp. Sensor Circuit 42: Fuel Temp. Sensor Circuit 43: Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Circuit 45: Injector Leak 51: Injector Circuit 53: Exhaust Gas Sensor Circuit (Lambda) (Right) 54: Signal Circuit From A/T Control To ECU 55: NO FAULTS The faults in BOLD are the ones you will be interested in, as these cause the CEL to light whilst driving. No faults would be represented by the following flashes: __ __ __ __ __ *Pause* _ _ _ _ _ You can check the functioning (or lack thereof) of the O2 sensors as well. When you're in Self-Diag. mode, start the car and let the engine get up to temperature. The LED/CEL is now indicating the voltage input from the LHS O2 sensor. Hold the engine at fast idle and you should see the LED/CEL blink approximately once every 2 seconds, as the sensor switches between lean/rich & low/high voltage. To check the operation of the RHS O2 sensor, simply rotate the screw fully clockwise, wait 3 secs, then rotate fully anti-clockwise. Exit the Self-Diagnostic mode by one of two ways: Turning the key off keeps the codes stored; turning the screw fully clockwise, waiting 3 secs, and then returning it once again fully anti-clockwise clears the codes. Note that you can also get into Self-Diag mode by shorting two pins of the Consult port, but you'll be wanting to access your ECU anyway (see below). ECU codes are only any good when a circuit fails completely. A sensor giving the wrong information will not be recorded. This is where Consult diagnosis comes into play. Best thing you can do when getting a new Zed are a few simple things (in no particular order, and pertaining to engine-related systems only): Check which ECU you're running (Jap Spec = 98RON+ only IMO) and whether it's been chipped or not. If it has, get it checked out, assume nothing! Set the TPS Set the idle Tighten the throttle cable (first thing I do with any new car) and sync the throttle bodies Clean the MAF wire carefully (I use acetone) New spark plugs (cyls 5&6 are a pain, mine were different to the front four when I got the car) New fuel filter (cheap & a five minute job) Check boost levels Find the myriad vacuum leaks and brittle pipes and rectify Check as many electrical connections as possible for corrosion, particularly the injectors & the sensors at the rear (ISCV, AAC etc). Be careful, the heat will have made everything brittle and things will break. WD40 is your friend. Check the base timing is set at 15° BTDC. Use a HT lead extension between coil pack & plug on cyl 1, don't waste time trying to use the inductive loop near the PTU or the coil pack loom. Rotate the CAS clockwise to retard timing; anti-clockwise to advance. Expect the Series 1 PTU to screw up. I've stripped back the wires and left mine over near the nearside wing. There are better places. Replace with Series 2 PTU if goosed. (I used a spare S1 off my GTR) Hope that helps!

Peak EGT occurs at a stoichiometric burn (14.7:1 AFR). At this point, both running richer or leaner decreases EGT to a point. At a constant AFR, advancing timing reduces EGT, retarding timing increases EGT. Detonation also reduces EGTs, whilst the cylinder head temps rocket. EGTs by themselves aren't really that important IMO, there are too many variables; it's the changes that can tell you something, eg. a sharp reduction in previously observed EGTs at a given AFR indicating the onset of detonation. I personally don't use EGT gauges, but they do have their uses.

Damn right!! 16-18psi is baby boost, anyhoo :D

Most definitely! More than likely in the Pulsar though. I'll be at Pod for RWYB this weekend as well, and every weekend until the last one of the year hopefully.

Nope, not on any ECU I'm aware of. The deceleration (overrun) fuel cut & fuel recover variables are 2d maps that specify an RPM dependent on engine temp. These can be modified, and even a stock ECU can be programmed so overrun fuel cut is disabled. If you're a fan of that sort of thing ;)

There isn't. It's all one map. There are knock maps when the knock sensor detects knock, there is a high gear map and corresponding high gear knock map for top gear on the manuals. Accelerating & deccelerating are covered by the primary fuel map.

When engine breaking you're running lean. As lean as it is possible as the injectors are shut off above a certain RPM (approx 1500 when fully warm). It's basically fresh air on overrun. Rich isn't "good", either. Bore wash is very bad and an overly rich mixture can also promote det. Lean under boost is obviously the worst case scenario though. Spot-on AFR & safe timing (unless you choose to push things knowing the potential risks) is the only way to go for peace of mind.

The OEM sensor is only in operation at certain parts of the ignition maps (on the Zed TT it's high load & low RPM scenarios, up to 3200RPM). It's definitely not suitable for sensing knock to protect your engine from going boooom. If you know what you're listening for, ears are OK. You can use det-cans or make a simple electronic system from a hearing amplifier. Or buy an aftermarket system for £££. All depends how good you are at hearing det, and how much you're worried by these things. It's a slippery slope, I can't drive a turbocharged car without knowing what the AFR is.

Some kind of knock monitoring until you're 110% sure the map is spot-on for your particular set-up.

For longevity's sake, further downstream is preferred. I've run widebands in various positions, my MR2 has it about 12" from the turbine housing, my old S13 had it half way to the back box. I've also ran them in purpose-built clamps for the tailpipe. As for orientation, keep it above the horizontal to protect the sensor from condensation, and perpendicular to the flow of exhaust gas.

I meant just for dyno time so I can map cars there.

Had a quick look on their website, do they only do power runs or are you able to map a car there as well?

Missed the last part of your post. Lambdas are there to attain a stoichiometric air:fuel ratio of 14.7:1. At this value, all fuel is burnt, which is optimal for catalytic converters which keeps the environment happy. It is possible to run 14.7:1 if you wish without lambda feedback, it just makes tuning a more precise & drawn out exercise (not accounting for the Autotune features present in software nowadays). Some cars I've worked with actually have a more stable AFR this way than when relying on the O2 feedback. I remove it in all my own cars. My Pulsar is amazing on fuel.

Just that it can be a bit chavtastic there, a friend wasn't impressed. Different strokes for different folks though, I'm more than happy to check it out for myself :)

Sorted! I haven't heard great things about DynoDaze, but I'll gladly head on over and check it out :)

I've deactivated it by removing the closed loop flags on all the maps. If you simply unplug them, the ECU will throw a code (I've also deactivated the O2 DTC), output voltage will be constantly low (0v) and it will assume you're running lean so you'll run pig rich as a fail-safe. The closed loop parts in the Zed ECU are way too big for my liking, it forces 14.7:1 AFR in the transitional areas where you're coming onto boost, where I richen it up to 13.5-12.5:1. Also, I like to cruise at 15.5-16:1 AFR, but this also means a slower burn rate, so you need a bit more advance to counter this. All in all, it makes the Zed feel a lot more crisp and eager.

I've been getting poor mileage lately and the car hasn't felt as sprightly as it should. So I hooked up my Consult and found that the near-side lambda sensor was 'stuck' at 0.2 volts, reporting a constant lean condition so the ECU was overfueling one bank during closed loop operation. A normal lambda sensor should fluctuate from 0.1v to 0.9v roughly once every 2 seconds on idle. So if you're getting poor mileage and are a bit down on power yet with no DTCs, don't rule out a shonky lambda sensor :thumbup1: I hate OEM lambda control with a passion so rather than bother fitting a new sensor, it's now completely deactivated in my ECU :ninja:

I'm always up for a bit of dyno testing, but given the date & lack of replies, it doesn't look like many others are!

I bet that was me (yes I know it was a long time ago). I'm in there a lot as I only live down the road :laugh:

Small world, I didn't realise this was Yaseen's car. We were mates at uni, way back when I had my Sapph Cos. Have you kept in touch with him? Not spoken to him for years.

I'll be heading to TOTB this year. Would have liked to have entered the MR2, but ran out of time. Might still enter something for a giggle, works out cheaper than a Test & Tune day at Pod plus you get to camp & get pissed!

Was it anyone from here? I was in the Pulsar doing my best to break the 'box :D

I've been correcting the damaged paint on my Zed, it had horrendous swirls on every panel, deep into the lacquer. I think the previous owner went crazy with a rotary, looked like it had been sanded! It's my first ever attempt at any detailing work, I've never even polished a car before! I used Meguiars UC with a Lake Country Hydrotech 5.5" cutting pad (blue) on a £20 Titan DA. The results are amazing, did the whole car in about 5 hrs taking my time and getting the speed, pressure & technique just right. Even managed to fill an 18" long deep scratch on my wing so it's hardly noticeable. I'll be using Meg's Ultimate Polish to remove any fine swirl marks (Lake Country finishing pad (red)) before finishing off with some Bilt Hamber Finis Wax. Honestly, the UC is amazing stuff. I know this post is fecking useless without before/after pics, but suffice to say I had bought the gear to respray the entire car, but now I only need to do my despoilered dog-eared boot. Gutted I didn't take pics of the mess it was in before!