vern936

Cheers for all the replies - I did send a message to the seller with the one I linked asking if it had the holes for attaching the fan shroud? Received no reply as yet but perhaps you can tell me Car.Mad? Just a one off I take it? - or do you know a way of getting them cheaper? :whistling: I'll also send a question to race_spec_performance to see if they can still get them - £5 cheaper is an extra 15 miles worth of fuel when its back on the road ;) Do these ones have the attachment points for the fan shroud? Cheers for the advice, James

Ok cheers bud appreciate that - I'll have a think about it at that price! Just depends one if this one on eBay would be better for keeping her cool with raised boost - anyone? Cheers, James

Anyone got one of these fitted? eBay Link Or can anyone recommend a better product/price? Not looking for anything special/too expensive really as mine seemed to run at the right temperature with the standard rad but it has started weeping a bit from one of the bottom corners where the rows join the end tanks and I'm about to up the boost :) Thanks in advance, James

Sorry to hear this!! It is a nightmare when this happens - I work for Tesco running the home delivery service at one of the stores and we have been hit several times now for the cats. They only seem to take Iveco cats from ours though?? Not sure if they can get at them on the Sprinters. They also hit the local Iveco depot in the same nights each time it's been done so every time they've done us there's been a few days delay while they order some more cats in for us. Can you not claim for this through insurance? Just with you saying it cost you 2k last time it happend I hope you dont have to pay out of your own pocket!! Although its still a nightmare with the disruption it causes and I hope you find some way of catching them in your area. James

I bought an Apexi AVC-R as I heard and read they were supposed to be the ultimate piece of kit for boost control. Pretty expensive though! Yet to fit it to the zed but have seen good results from one fitted to an s14a - look pretty as well as you can have them displaying revs, boost, etc as a digital gauges. I plan to install mine in the spare DIN slot (with closing lid for stealth when the car is locked) under the radio but if you are planning a true stealth install you may be better off with an alternative as the AVC-R seems pretty big as boost controllers go.

Pretty sure the wrong oil wouldn't cause this kind of problem. And I would have thought by the time overfilled oil could cause running problem you'd have already blown seals and have ridiculous amounts of smoke from the exhaust. Sounds more like as said - coolant temperature sensor if for the fact that it doesn't drive properly if you're talking about a misfire and overfueling or if you're just talking about not having full boost - boost is resticted until you reach operating temp. HTH

Cheers Steams - that sounds a good idea. I'll give that or my original plan a go tomorrow depending on how much a set of taps costs lol.

Cheers for the reply - I think the nose panel ones are OK IIRC but I've got only got 1 of the studs nearer the wheels still intact. Anyone gone as far as grinding the broken studs off, drilling them out and welding another bit of stud into the hole? Only solution I can think of at the moment!

BUMP - nobody else had this? :helpsmilie:

I suppose you just cut the hole out of the new doorcard and transfer the plastic surround to make it look original? Will be looking into this myself over the next week anyway hopefully

I also have a later interior to go in to my car that has door seat belts but I was thinking more about modifying the door card than moving the seat belt....anyone done this? James

Where the bumper mounts to the wing the studs have snapped...1 was already snapped by someone else and now I've done one each side so there's only 1 stud to put it back on with now. :whistling: I can't be the only person for this to happen to.....what's the recommended fix for holding the bumper on when this happens? Also, the brackets at each end of the wing look flimsy and are rusting - is there any need for them? I've removed the stock intake ducting and cant see anything else that they hold on?? Thanks in advance, James

If the zed is back together count me in :)

The high speed vibration/vibration under breaking could be worn tension rod bushes as well - normally pretty obvious as soon as you jack the car up if they're gone as when they hang when the suspension has no load on it they look their worst i.e. cracked and perished. I'd check the visual state of these before you pay for balancing or especially new brakes.

Mine was towed about 15-20 miles using an a frame - it fitted under fine and no gearbox problems?? I knew about problems towing autos with the driving wheels on the ground but didnt think you could cause problems with a manual? Either way it seems to be OK but having said that my trip was only 15-20 miles and we stopped for about half an hour at a roadside stop if that would make a difference to saving the box doing it in short bursts? *EDIT* just realised this is irrelevant as you stated yours is an auto in a later post - will teach me to read the whole thread properly :)

The thread is different on the VG engine. The SR uses a M20*1.5 threaded filter where the VG is specified as a 3/4 x 16 threaded filter. HTH

And what does it indicate if there is oil traces in the pipes? James

I'd be interested in knowing if there's a guide anywhere or a set order of what to take the interior panels off in a shorty as they all seem to be interlocked under each other lol. I had a go at removing the ones behind the seats first as I want the carpet out and it seems to be trapped behind that but that definately doesn't seem to be the place to start. Don't suppose it matters too much breaking my old tweed off but if I can avoid it I will. Any pointers?

Sorry to hear this...hope you're back on your feet soon mate!

When I last used an A-frame or whatever they're called I was told that if any of the wheels of the car that's being towed are touching the road it must be insured. However - I decided to risk it and towed mine with no insurance and got pulled into a VOSA checkpoint (pretty much sums up my luck) but luckily they either didn't check for insurance or weren't bothered as the guy seemed pretty interested in the car and I had a good chat with him - but you might not be so lucky! Worth checking before you risk just using a bar. HTH

Anyone know this zed? Only got a quick glimpse of the back of it parked up in a driveway as I went past in the van - anyones on here. As above was a red ah3 ish colour (it was dark lol), J plate, 99 spec rear lights. Looked pretty tidy from the back - will drive past again when I'm out that way for another look.

I've just bought a brand new one of these and while I've not fitted it yet I was told you dont need anything special for a twin turbo - it's a single solenoid design that works on a twin turbo with some clever fitting :) AVC-R Installation Guide

I had a mysterious power drain in mine which I only found by luck when the map reading lights weren't working - took the headlining off to find the wires were bare and shorting out against the roof slightly but not enough to blow the fuse. Worth checking for anything not working in case you've got a similar problem with the feed to anything?

Have I read it right - that you've disconnect everything apart from the power and the remote and tried powering it up? If so perhaps it needs a while without power to reset - if it doesn't correct it there must be a fault within the amp :)

From the sounds of that mate I'd definately get a compression check done just as an indicator of whats going on in there. What colour is the over-run smoke?