vern936

I did a quick Google search for ECUtalk cables and it turns out they are closed till 15th April and their genuine cables can only be sourced through resellers such as Horsham Developments in this country. I chanced one of these eBay Link as the H-Dev lead is £64.99. I'll let you know how I get on.

Sorry to hijack your thread Ultim8blckWidow...Where did you get your diagnostic cable and ECUTalk software from? I'm looking for a cable and some decent software for monitoring sensors and fault codes.

Looks like CAS to me. Pretty sure my tach registers a few hundred rpm while cranking....and my car doesn't run very well at all at the minute. As said, you will only hear a fuel pump prime after it has been stationary for quite a while and the car decides that there will be no pressure in the rail. The CAS sends the 'engine cranking' signal to the FPCU and starts the fuel pump running constantly when the starter is turning.

Cheers Graham, I will get the voltages checked tomorrow. The plug and pins on the maf itself are both clean - which is unusual as the rest of the connectors on the car seem to have green corrosion/copper oxide on them! Anybody reading this thread that has a spare maf that they may want to sell let me know ;) Anybody tried one of those cables and the software from h-dev?

Forgot to add the link to the cable I was referring to :whistling: http://www.h-dev.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=5053

Anyone tried one of these cables? It says it comes with a CD with software on althought I'm not sure which software - it mentions Datascan earlier in the description so it possibly comes with that? I take it from the way people are mentioning the diagnostic software there is no way of seeing what the MAF is up to without a diagnostic cable and software?

Managed to get my car running (not very well) after 3 years parked at a friends garage. It struggles to start and when it does it doesn't sound like it's running on all six and the idle is all over the place and it won't rev over 2500. When I try and demand a bit of power to move the car (even below 2500rpm) it pops and bangs and bogs down. I will remove the CAS this weekend if it stops raining and check for spark and injector click on all 6 cylinders but for the wondering idle and 2500rpm rev limit I suspect the AFM/MAF as unplugging it makes no difference to the idle or the running of the engine. Is there any way of testing the AFM with a multimeter or anything as I was hoping to avoid just buying another and seeing if it makes a difference? If there is no way of testing it, does anybody sell ConZult software and cables anymore? A google/forum search for ConZult brings up DTA-Motorsport still but I could have sworn that the last time I was on here frequently a few years ago now Dan had stopped his sideline business of DTA-Motorsport? If ConZult is no longer available, what's the best alternative?

Sorry 300 zedx, I did read the full thread but thought I would post a reply as I noticed nobody has added to it for 6 months. I also clicked the link but, as stated elsewhere in the thread, it is for mr2 panels which confused me a bit. I have emailed the seller now through eBay to ask him for the details.

I have been looking at this in the hour or two of daylight after work on the odd occasion that it hasn't been raining this weeek! (after I managed to get the f***ing thing to stop leaking) I think I am going to try and make a bracket to attach my fpr almost next to the fuel filter. Just need to get some copper pipe and bend it into a U shape and flare the ends for the return from the regulator to the tank. Unfortunately, I don't think I can do anything but this as I must have cut the braided fuel line I bought into a length that only fits there all those years ago when I took the car off the road:headvswal. I will post a pic of the location of mine when I've attached it properly for everybody elses' reference.

Cheers for the replies. I do have all the bits in my conservatory and a better set of wheels so providing I can get the engine running somewhere near it shouldn't be too bad - I always planned to have it remapped by Noz anyway so I'm sure he would pick up on anything that needed tweaking. I never knew what the mirrors were but have always quite liked them so I think they'll be staying :wink: The intercoolers look great from afar but as the bumper has been off it for the 3 years it's been at the garage the fins are getting pretty badly corroded now :( so may have to get some more when/if it gets to the point of being mapped. That said - as long as they don't leak the design of the end tanks and the size of them may put them as better than cheaper ones. The fact it's a SWB is the only reason I'm even wanting to repair it to be honest. If it wasn't a SWB and the engine ran sweet as it is I would have been very tempted to either re shell it or possibly break the car. Hopefully I can get it done as I have accumulated some bits that should make it quite a nice one if it ever gets complete.

Can't say I had heard of Wednesfield before a google maps search mate. It puts you as about 35 miles away from me. I'll definitely be up for coming down for a look if I can't work the best solution out from any pictures that get posted! Cheers for the offer.

It doesn't matter on the make...it just matters that you get the correct size and hub fitment. I'd recommend not getting cheap discs though as they will probably just warp if they are budget discs.

Sorry to bump and old thread - but I still haven't properly finished this. :whistling::sad: If anybody has seen my other posts you will know that I've recently got my zed back on my drive after 3 years of it being at my mates garage. Anybody got any pics of adjustable fprs fitted?

Any update on if these are still available direct from the supplier? An if so is there any difference between panels for SWB and LWB? Need to know what's available as a repair before I go chopping bits out of (what's left of) my current sills. Don't really want to buy from Zcentre. Or if anyone can recommend an alternative place to source repair panels for a SWB I would much appreciate it!

Not a newbie as such...but I've had my 300zx back after it has been stored at a friends garage for 3 and a half years so I'm getting back into the swing of things with it. The story goes that it was originally driven up to my friends garage as it needed welding and a respray and also because he said I could use his ramp and tools to get the engine out and turbos off for refurbishment. The engine has been out, clutch upgraded to a 5 puck ceramic new one, flywheel upgraded to a lightened new one, new exhaust manifiolds, and the turbos upgraded plus other mods that I can't remember all of off the top of my head such as the plenum water bypass. The welding and respray have not been done and also the car no longer runs. It has started since the engine was put back in but would not jump start when it first got back to my drive and the PTU seems to be getting really hot (more on this in the technical section). My friend said it was too time consuming for him to be welding at mates rates and recommended it needed new sills so last week I have had it brought back to my driveway. It needs quite a bit of welding around the sill area and the passenger side floor has come away from the inner sill so expect a few questions about where is the best place to get panels from. Hopefully getting it running will be relatively easy. Cheers, James

Still no sign of the parcel mate and I haven't received the tracking number. Any chance you can chase it up or send the tracking number over to me and I'll see where it's at? We have had a bit of snow around here the past few days so dont know whether that has slowed things down but I'd rather see where it's up to. Cheers.

Hi Graham, Sorry to use this thread again. No sign of a parcel or tracking number as yet. Just thought I'd chase it up. Cheers, James

Hi Graham, was just wondering what was happening with the clocks? Sorry to communicate through a thread on here...I have sent you another email but have not had a reply. It seems the subscription fee may be worth it just for the PM facility. Lol.

As above, has anybody got contact details for Graham apart from his email address which I've tried? Unfortunately I don't seem to be able to PM him anymore, I assume because I'm no longer a subscribed member. I can see that he has been on the forum today so hopefully he will see this post himself, but if anyone has his direct contact details is there any chance you could let him know I am trying to get in touch with him. Cheers, James

How long is it taking before you get the whoosh and the belt stops slipping? Mine used to stick slightly on cold start if the engine had been up to temperature when I turned it off. It would run at full speed for a less than 10 seconds I'd say before it calmed down to the usual speed for the engine being cold - I thought this was normal operation as other cars I've had with a viscous fan seem to have done the same. I've never had slipping belts on mine though. Is there any chance you have a small fluid leak and the belts/pulleys are getting contaminated? Please bare in mind when reading this that my car hasn't ran for a while so I may not be remembering the fans operation correctly. :whistling:

I'm in the middle of fitting a Sard adjustable fuel pressure regulator to my zed. Those of you running an adjustable fpr...where have you put it? Ideally I'd have thought it could do with going somewhere near the fuel filter but I can't think of how to put it so that I can still access it to adjust it and be able to see the pressure gauge in the side of it. I'm thinking I might have to put it right over the other side by the fuse box. Have any of you got any pictures showing where you've put yours?

Can't believe how many local zeds there is that I've never seen! I'll be going to this but not sure if it'll be in the zed yet as still got quite a lot of work to do before it's on the road.

Jeff - How much would I be looking at for checking the chip? I am interested to see whether it has been reprogrammed and what you think of the map just out of curiosity now. If it would be easier I would probably be able to drop the ECU to you some time in the new year as I'm not too far away in Stoke-on-Trent. Mine is a Jap import so it might fit into your theory of there being a particular tuner that carried out the reprogramming of stock chips. Noz - I will post some pictures up to see what you think of the damage I've caused and the likelihood of the chip having been removed and refitted. Whats a ball park figure for a full remap of my ECU? Are we talking hundreds or thousands as it sounds like a lot of work!! If you would prefer to discuss via email you can contact me on vern936(at)hotmail.com Regards, James

Jeff, Is there any way of telling whether the ECU has been remapped appropriately for the mods I intend to run? Or would it be cheaper, safer and easier to get somebody to socket it and provide a chip?

Yeah it was 2 of the four screws that hold the cover on and I did have some trouble with one of the 2 that hold the smaller PCB in place. I don't know why they were so bad - I used hardly any force to undo them and they may as well have been made of chocolate for how easily they rounded. Mine is a manual 8 bit ECU. Mods are 14 psi on standard refurbd tubs, standard injectors, HKS SMICs, AMS manifolds, air filter - that's the basics although I have probably forgotten something. I am pretty sure the chip is soldered direct to the board not only from how it looks but the chip had a sticker with a number on which when googled pointed to a standard Nissan chip. There is no rush for the ECU as the car has got to be painted yet - hoping to have it all ready to go by spring so as long as its done before then it's fine by me. How much would it set me back for you to socket it and provide a chip Andy?