TubZ

Split away! Should have said 'raise' not 'lower' but you get what i mean...The cars are designed to be run with Antifreeze/Coolant mix (not sure the exact mix, but will revert to those with higher knowledge) for temps to be read off the 'New Substance' NOT pure water.... From the post in the Dubs forums.. You heat water, it expands. (Heat a 'new substance' -Less expansion!) You pressurise water, it raise it's boiling point. You heat something in a confined space and you raise it's pressure. You can compress a gas, you can't compress a fluid (much) Water finds it's own level.

That's why it's important to rev it a little at a constant above 2K and push the air to the top with the rad cap off and bleed screw open...

My final two penneth here would be to take the Stat out and put some Rad flush in, bleed, as before, and go for a gentle run. Come home, let it cool, drop coolant (some into a bowl and use your test kit again?) Repeat above. repeat again, but put a working stat in (test in a pan first) then refil with 50/50 antifreeze mix? Are you/have you used/using any (even cheap) in all that you've done before? Remember adding coolant mix will lower the boiling point of your coolant further (and keep the system clean!) Been bleeding a VW camper i bought for the last couple of weeks after doing what i've described above...(It's 25 years old and the Z is 18 now so you'll be surprised what comes out if it's not been flushed before in an older car!)...I have seen my temp drop on the van now from 3/4 (with air in system) to just above mid way last weekend after two more bleed sessions... Another session tomorrow to get more coolant in and hopefully drop my temp to below half way...I'm also using decent comma additive (antifreeze) and not cheap stuff to lower the boiling point...Worth a read if you have 5 mins and not too far off the proceedure i've followed on the Z... http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/bleeding-the-cooling-system_topic29710.html only exception is i have raised the nose on the Z on a hill out of my estate when bleeding the car with teh temp on 40 and teh fan on full... I also dropped the nose on the camper (after bleeding rad) as the header tank is in the back! Z can also be done in one hit yourself with no need of an assistant so worth a couple more hits with 2 x £3 rad flush?! Best of luck.. (also PM Bump!)

or Air Clutch more likely... You don't hear the airbrakes on the move, only releasing air to pull away!

You need a steep incline (Nose up it) and to bleed the Air out...Can be a long process but think you've got air in there somewhere.. Run new water in with rad cap off and bleed screw open...(You can drain and put anti-freeze in when you know you have no leaks) rev to 2.5/3k and get as much water in as possible squeezing pipes etc. Once warm and your getting warm water in/through the rad, Close bleed screw, make sure that the rad cap end is full to the brim and rev again, whilst feeding in water, Replace cap, drop revs and take for a run...return to said hill again with Cold Car next day, remove rad cap and re-top up....Remember Fresh water contains oxygen! and compressing the water (*with Anti-freeze) raises it's boiling point, so temps on correct coolant might vary from Pure water... Sure there's a 'how to' on here somewhere..

No it doesn't! No law as i've reviewed it. Must have an appointment, but iif the appointment is in John o' Groats and you live in Lands end it's legal...Most people don't do what we're talking about though! I've been in a similar situation and asked a 'local' garage to book me in when i've been away from home in an un-MOT'd car and realised it's run out..

Can you take a look at my PM when you get 5 please bud.

I've got a Valeo and not sure if its similar bit the exhaust fan has two plastic (design fault, but saves cost) scoops that feed the pressure switch...These feed air to the pressure switch and ignition only occurs when the switch is triggered. These plastic scoops get hot and brittle and can obviously interrupt the ignition cycle (basically to ensure no that the fan is running prior to ignition, to ensure no combustion gases build up)... Prior to any of this though, if you're competent it's worth taking the cover off and opening the Flu and making sure this is clean and clear of any build up, as this can also effect the ignition cycle if gases are not being exhausted properly and there will usually be some sort of sensor to detect this...

14 Day NIP (Notice of intended prosecution), so start counting and cross your fingers! If not try http://www.pepipoo.com for some sound legal advice...

How long would it take to get to Reading from Cardiff on a Monday morning via the A roads..or would I be pissing in the wind a bit? Literally... to make up time!!!!

That top mechanic award is for yourself I assume?!! Without that bit of out of the box thinking I'd have been going back up again tonight to rescue it!

Geoff you are a legend! Just got back 20 mins ago and had a cuppa.... I had to do the job myself with the guys tools, this was after bodge fixing a transit clutch pedal with him first on the other side of the car park as he was faffing for an hour and I spotted the van after calling Rac again! Note to self. Always carry some extra tools when you switch cars! Cheers also to Stu who called me.

Cheers stu..alternator is also water pump so need to keep engine cool! Hopefully getting a re-assessment after jeffs superior advice again!!

Cheers jeff! No tools is my PITA! Will 91 miles with no PS balls anything up? Normally in my derver but she's laid up with 2 leaking injectors!

Could do it if I had my ramps and tools as have scrounged a 4pk1038 belt from a garage at the services. But the guy goes home at 9 and I don't want to leave her unattended!!

Anyone on m4 westbound? Stuck in membery services with a broken alternator belt that Rac can't fix as I've got 2other belts behind it on the Z. *£240 to recover me home so big drink for anyone that can give me a lift?!! Tools and spare belt in my garage, but only key on the keys I've got here so can't get lea to come get me either!!! Call me 07818 607568..

Just renewed via Paypal Transaction ID: 90E23645K3079351Y. Apologies for the tardiness! Didn't realise I'd not done it after I came back last year!:sleep1:

Thats why the trade in was so high!... £1k for the Plunger and £250 for the trannie!

My old 02 GT TDI Golf was a flyer on the stuff! ... no more than 70/30 and a pure diesel fill now and again to clean it a bit..Then veg oil went from £1.25 for 3 litres to £1 a litre though and killed the incentive. Not tried filtered/recycled yet, but considering it for my E320!

Download an app called 'Whatsapp' (69p though) and you can share pics/vids and chat the world over for free!

My experience of an ex-trader garage on here a few years back cost me a re-build. I could never prove it, but the bolt that was sucked into my right turbo was left there by the same clowns that removed the airbox to fix my oil cooler a couple of months prior. I realised it must have been them after they did the re-build and after 500miles the flywheel snapped two and sheered 6 bolts that wern't torqued or loc-tighted in! If they'd had a pot to piss in i'd have had someone else do it and chased them for the money, as after a new crank and 2nd re-build, they still ballsed loads up that i had to fix! Long live Ryan and his brother craig....Still owes me a brand new battery they nicked, Cost of recovery and Fuel back and forth to chase them up, as well as various other bits they nicked off my car whilst in their custody.....I'm not bitter though, I have a habit of bumping into old friends...;-) Anyone seen Ryan lately?

Nice, but not 9k Nice! I'd rather own another newer Z for that money!

Pics anyone??

Yep. Used it for sticky 4th Selector and now need to swap my oil and add again at some point...

Needs to be warmed up...Dip it in a mug of hat water for afew minutes and then measure the voltage drop..