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i bought 4metres in the end, was a bit of a journy round the intercoolers etc

but does it smoke? you should try a wet test too, drop some oil down there.

i was thinking bout this too but i dont know if there is enough space to fit a filter and the maf?

yo mark i recently changed my 2.5 inch to 3inch like you :D and its no longer underneath the car scraping on the road lol.

hmmm i might even heat wrap my test pipes now that im thinking bout it........

Rally cars wrap thier manifolds and so do alot of race cars... i cant think of any downsides to it apart from maybe looks? but can you see them from the outside unless the engines out? less heat under the bonnet, more heat in the exhaust system= better flow...

ah i see never mind, duno why i was thinking rears....

Im after some rear skyline rear calipers but the upgraded ones compared to the z32, can u post a pic of the calipers & discs plz ruishy? are you sure you didnt mean the r33 gtr calipers as thems are the ones im after, not the gts ones cheers.

a pound :D

The problem is it will be a waste of time getting it tuned up if it wont boost where i want it, they could spend hours trying to work on it when i can do it myself. Il get it sorted eventually ;)

thats coz they are called lingLONG lol hahaha might as well superglue some plastic to the rim haha

thats coz u got sh1t tyres

ah yes the uas one lol duno why i called it the ultimate lol i wonder why they went for the lwb and what differences they had,,, hmmmm they should have some head to head action with the lwb's and swb racing cars

isnt the ultimate racing zed a lwb?

i bought ebc skyline front discs great service, although the discs cracked lol

The bov is set as it was from factory, i havent changed the spring tension, it starts to dump just over 1psi and can hold upto 60psi, havent had the chip custom mapped yet as i need to sort out this boosting problem before i can do so, next is to adjust the actuators so they are just starting to open at 15psi. heres the pipework, pretty basic really,

Where the recircs were i have T'ed both sides together with a BOV in the middle, you wanna see a pic? Anyway do you have any input on my boosting probs mark? :D

And through the balance bar on the plenum and the balance bar i have fitted for the Bov will help balance things out also.

What im going to do is T off both actuator pipes into one pipe then push 15-16psi thru the pipe and keep it there while i sdjust the actuators, il adjust them so they are just about to open at 15-16psi...... sounds like the best way to get them opening sequentially.

ok progress.... i spent last weekend doing a few things to the car. I tested for boost leaks and yay i found one..... It was coming from the passenger turbo inlet pipe, oopsy.. the weld was not perfect and was leaking past quite badly so after hours of taking it off and welding the leak it was fine and ready to be fitted again. being quite an obvious leak, i was almost certain that this must be the problem.... NOPE still wont boost past 17psi although seemed a little better running. While performing another boost leak test i noticed air leaks out the dip stick if it isnt plugged in enough, is this normal? The car doesnt smoke at all so this seems strange and the dipstick doesnt pop out while driving or boosting either, little worried about that. Anyway i got it back up on the axle stands and tested the actuators to see if they were opening as they should..... Well i can say the passenger opens at about 15psi 1bar hmmmm seems normal, so i tested the drivers side, this ones just opens at about 9-10 psi quite hard to read the gauge as it has quite a high range, it goes upto 180psi lol anyway im going to have a go at adjusting the drivers side actuator, its a shame it is the drivers side as this one is the hardest to get to :( very tight in there....... so do we recon this is the problem and while im at it do you lot recon i should set them a little higher say 17psi? which should give me a good base say about 15psi... your thoughts plz guys.......... Thanks James

lol i missed all this hah cant be bothered to post anyhow.

well if you want the same bog standard wheel sizes and offsets as everyone else then follow the above, if you want to have something that looks insane and stands out go for a mad offset but its alot of work to get right but is worth it. if you need the rubber on the road for traction then youl need to sacrifice some looks. its up to you. I dont find myself really needing much traction on the road ive only got 255 on the rear it does spin up alot but i also have a set of r888 track wheels/tyres for when i need the grip and they are also only 255 on the rears but 245 on the front, once warm they are really sticky and take alot to spin up so id rather have the looks on the road but thats my choice, soon il be fitting a 255 on the front of my road setup :D heres how my rears look with a 18 inch 9.5j et20 and 255/35 tyre and the fronts with the same wheels but 245/40 tyre

on the front or rears?

the offsets are actually perfect, a et32 on a 9inch rim will stick out 6mm more than a et32 on a 8.5inch rim so will look pretty cool. and those 10inch rears will stick out a bit so you would probably need to roll the arches, infact them rears will only stick in an extra 6mm more than my setup and mine are very aggresive.....

sometimes it can be heat spots on the discs...... you could skim them but might as well buy new discs. how does it judder? always on the brakes or after they have warmed up? my discs suffered a bt of juddereringbut only when they were hot so i took it out for and performed a bedding in session up to 60mph then braking down to 5mph about 10 or 15 times, when they start to fade i let off and drive for 15mins to cool them down, brakes feel great after that as the pad has left a nice layer on the disc which is what you want....... if yours are warped then what ive just writen wont mean crap lol..