Splitfyr3

Looking proper shibby Jimmy! I just got some nice braided fuel hose at the weekend, so at least that bit'll look as good in mine ;)

Ta Jimmy - I'll have a look as soon as I get a mo. Didn't get chance this weekend as I was busy roasting to death at Silverstone...

Cheers Jimmy - I'll have a look. I thought I'd found the aircon ECU before - black box, above and left of the clutch pedal - but couldn't see the connectors. I'll do a bit of contortionism and get in there a bit further to double check!

Hello mate, I removed the plastic ducting on the passenger side to be able to see the two actuators, and didn't find any sensors on it - I assume this is correct? There are sensors on the driver's side, but they seem to be connected fine and as mentioned previously, I don't get any errors in self diag. However, I do remember that while the ducting was there, it wasn't fitted in quite right and there was a gap somewhere... maybe it's not pushing enough air past the sensors? I'll check...

Ta mate I've checked the connectors onto the actuators and they seem fine, but how the hell do you check the connectors to the aircon ecu, or check the 'intermediate connector' that is mentioned in the service manual? I can't find exactly where they are or how to get into where I think they might be. Is it a dash out job?

Hi all, I've still got problems with the heater in my Zed - it blows hot no matter what temp setting you put it on, and even when it's switched off hot air flows out. The only way I can drive the car is with it switched off and on recirc! I took the dash apart the other day and checked a few things. From what I can see, the door in the large opening (for the face vents) works fine - it moves when I change it to screen/vent/feet etc. The recirc also works fine as I can hear and see it moving (behind the glovebox). What I can't get to do anything are the two actuators that sit underneath the main matrix, visible from the passenger side. No matter what I set it to, they don't seem to move. Any ideas why, or what I can check? I don't think I have a dodgy sensor as the self diag doesn't give me any open/shorted circuits...

LOL - too right. But at least it's a step in the right direction for once. Remember the good ole days when we complained that it'd be over a quid a litre soon? :rolleyes:

Really sorry to hear that such a nice motor could be cannibalised... but if you must, I might be interested in the cooling hoses, fuel lines, brake lines and the willwood stuff... I might even be after a whole gearbox...

Just bung it in another PC mate - there should be a spare data and power connector in there. Then, when you boot back up it should detect the drive and put it as your next available drive letter. You can then drag and drop to your heart's content!

Holy crap! That was my 100th post! :dance:

Someone told me last night that Asda and Sainsbury's are dropping their petrol prices by 10p, some others by 6p, and Tesco said they'll be at whatever the local area is at... I just want to know what Shell is doing with their VPower... hehe But no - not noticed anything round my way yet!

By far the easiest way is to get the HD enclosure (already mentioned by Rat2611) off eBay if you aren't in a major hurry. I have one of these and use it all the while. Also, when you're done you'll have a nice portable HD that you can upgrade to a bigger drive whenever you like! My enclosure cost 99p plus 4 quid delivery. One word of advice though - if you do go for one of these, don't buy one that mentions SATA! If your laptop is old it definitely won't have a SATA HD.

Hmm.. my bad then! I assumed there'd be more torque on the clutch plate in the lower gears as there feels like there's more torque... i.e. in 1st, you put your foot down and it shoves your head into the boot, in 5th it only gets as far as the back seats... :p It just seemed like the clutch would have to work harder in 1st, but I stand corrected! :D

Heh - was just going to post something very similar! When cold, the clutch slips, mainly in 4th and 5th. The weird thing is, it'll bite fine in 1st and spin up the wheels no problem, even in the dry... Still, I thought it was the clutch on the way out. How come it slips more in the high gears with less torque on the plate than in the lower gears though? Very strange... My next question is... is this something I can do myself or can you recommend anywhere around Bedfordshire/Leicestershire that'll do a good job? And from reading LisaF's recent post, I guess I go with an RPS Street or Max?

HAHA! Want some! :P

Email sent! :)

Yeah I thought so too. The switches ain't that great overall - pretty much all of them need persuading to work correctly! However, I only get this problem if the seat is all the way back... I may have the switches apart at some point to see if I can find whats up, but it's not high on the list of priorities at the mo (unlike my bloody blowers only blowing hot, dammit) as I can fix it by bringing the seat forward a tad. Just gotta remember to do it or slap any passenger who moves my seats! hehe

Doubt this is your problem as it's probably such an unlikely thing, but it's worth a mention in a thread about dead batteries. If I put my (electric) passenger seat all the way back so it gets to the stops and leave it there, it kills the battery. If you listen carefully, you can hear the motor straining and stopping, straining and stopping. No idea why it does it as there's nothing caught in the runners, but as long as I bring it forward a fraction it's all fine!

Me too - been after one of these for a while!

PISTONHEADS - speed matters... hehehe

Zen - no doubt. I'm an IT Consultant and I use them for my company and so do quite a few of my clients. Not necessarily the cheapest, but I've never had a problem, they know what they are talking about when you have a technical question (as opposed to 'erm... have you switched it off and on again?'), are based in the UK and best of all they don't clog up your PC with loads of crappy software! All they do is send you your login details and let you get on with it :) In fact - look here: Compare ISPs HTH!

Cheers edk83, That makes more sense. After all, as you said, a chip just gives you a different fuel map, mainly at the high end of the scale, right? I didn't understand how that could make such a difference. Still - two bits of good news there then! Not only am I getting a good bhp figure already, it's going to be even quicker when I turn up the boost :dance: Thanks for the help everyone :)

Oo! Didn't know I had any new replies in here! Hmm - that's strange then. Maybe they meant to say FWHP! I didn't question it because I thought: 300bhp standard (albeit at FW), a chip that I was told should give it 60-ish bhp more (is that true?) and a bit more from the induction kit and exhaust. Lose a bit through the drive train to the rears = 323.1 (don't forget the .1 ;) ) RWHP! Maybe I should get it dynoed again and get a second opinion on the original run... :x:

Take off your filter and MAF and bung up the hole with something that's round and 80mm and has a tube coming out of it! I had a little low pressure pump that I was going to use, but just ended up blowing into the tube in the end as my boost leak was so bad the pump couldn't shove enough air in! For the bung, I looked everywhere for something decent and finally gave up and used a bit of kitchen cupboard sealed with wood glue :wack: Worked fine though and I am now leak free! Mine turned out to be on the passenger side return from the turbo towards the IC, where it changes from hard to flexi pipe. HTH :)

I may be completely off the mark with this, but didn't I read somewhere that if your PCV valves get stuck in the closed position, this can also blow the dipstick out? Might be worth looking at if the alternative is an engine rebuild!