JeffTT

Will check in a mo, still getting used to the new format!! Jeff

The owner decided as it was getting on and there were other jobs he wanted doing ( pas pipe, steering arms etc) he left it with us and got the train home. Jeff

AC ecu sits upright on the left of the footwell roughly where your left foot is when driving Jeff TT

Last week a recovery truck tipped up early evening at the workshop with a broken zed on the back and an owner 150 miles from home, a recent soft spongy feel had been replaced with a sudden loss of clutch and no way of engaging gears with the engine running, a quick look at the clutch fluid, master cylinder and slave cylinder looked all good. However by removing the actuator fork rubber boot where it enters the gearbox revealed the problem a broken pivot bolt, not unheard of but not that common to be fair. Nothing for it but to remove the gearbox, a clearer view of bellhousing and the operating fork pivot bolt. The clutch plate and cover were not looking to good and when measured were way below minimum. Silly not to do the rear crank seal whilst we were in there.... A new 6 puck clutch unit was chosen to suit the way this zed is driven and used, such a shame its not visable when fitted...lush!! So all back together and now a fully operating clutch and smooth gear changes. Jeff TT

How easy it is to get caught out by an everyday zed job that should be a run of the mill cambelt swap , this one was hindered by a rather stubbord lower pulley, this is nothing new and did not phase me, but after 15 minutes with my trusty puller I was thinking something was definately going on. Normally when removing the crank pulley once the centre bolt has been slackend off the puller is attached and a few moment later its off, but not this time, best part of two hours! but this was the only way to go as once I had identified the potential disaster of rushing I went for the slow gradual route of loading the pulley pressure to almost breaking point and waiting 10 minutes with a slight occassional tap to the strong point on the pulley. Real care has to be taken with such a siezed pulley, I see way too many of these with big chunks missing out of them where someone has used a hammer and levers to try forcing them off.... Even with large dose of releasing fluid it still hung on in there until the last milimeter!! once off though you could see the rust that was gripping it so tight, strange as there was no sign of water leak or rust anywhere else. Jeff TT

Hi matey and welcome, I have just replied to your email. Jeff TT

Trying to call you back get off the phone !!

All you need to know here. Jeff http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?147816-Hicas-arm-replacement-tech

Some tradeperson dropped a can of paint off their truck outside of the workshop and cleared off without cleaning it up!!! Amazed me how many cars drove through it even though you clealy see it was wet, once we saw it we moved some cones in place to deter any more white liners!!! luckily it seems it was not gloss and the heavy rain today has washed a lot of it away. Jeff TT

Lightened the pic up so you can see it better. Jeff TT

Sorry if a repost but still worth a mention if you need to fill up tomorrow, V power on offer for Valentines`s day, 5p per litre discount. Jeff TT http://www.shell.co.uk/home/content/gbr/products_services/on_the_road/fuels/v_power_pkg/valentine_promotion/

Interestingly some cars albeit older ones had their fog lights similarly wired from new, but of course legislation changes so maybe your quite correct in your understanding of the "new" rules, but like everything MOT wise its down to the tester on the day, this is why it will be even more important to use a tester who knows the game as it were, not to bend the rules but to understand the limitations they impose on older cars and to apply some of the all too rare commodity these days better known as "common sense". Jeff TT

Yes there is an easy way to check the reverse switch without removing, when ever we do a conversion we always re-cable the reverse switch to the original autobox connector position at the front of the drivers side wing under the bonnet. You will see where there was 3 connectors plugged in, there will be only one now, this has just two active cables going to the reverse switch the other side (connected to the inner wing) goes to the reverse lights. So you can either link the car side of the connector with the ignition on to see of the reverse lights come on or use a meter to do a continuity check of the switch when reverse is selected. One point though the reverse lights should have an ignition live on them, if you have no ignition live then they will not work, as others said above the reverse light fuse is in the footwell and will be marked up as auto A/T. Jeff TT

A single pole changeover relay and an illiminated switch with some cable and the diagram below will be more than enough for MOT purposes, the bonus been no add on fog light or loss of reverse light. Jeff TT

The pump circulates the fluid around the hicas circuit which returns back to the pas resevoir all you are doing is removing then hicas circuit, the pump pressurises fluid that has originated from the resevoir, returning it back just equalises the circuit, fluid out ....fluid in. Jeff TT

As steams has said the output you have blanked is normally linked back to the resevoir when the hicas is removed, by blanking it off it has dead headed the pump which may well of blown the seals, not sure if there is an internal pressure release valve if so this will of triggered and hence no fluid pressure. Jeff TT

Here you go... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?140401-Single-piece-propshaft Jeff TT

From our own experience, dealers offering warranty and some kind of finance options are getting strong prices, have seen at least three of these in the past few months with one new owner happy to pay upwards of £6k for a 91 TT, a very nice one I will add though,the more standard the zed the better chance of getting a good price, car pricing is very fickle and is difficult to guess. Jeff TT

Here is another one we did, you can see how bad the original pipes were, again removal of the diff was enough, a few pipes do need to be threaded through to get them in, draw a small diagram to remind yourself where each pipes goes before you remove them, and remember the whole system needs bleeding, starting with the ABS module first. Jeff TT

Rear brake pipes can be a pain, tip though, no need to remove the subframe just remove the diff, picuture below of one we done some time ago shows the access with the diff removed, neatness is the key, the original fixings need to be reused so the tester can see they are all secure. Jeff TT [/img]

Rear brake pipes can be a pain, tip though, no need to remove the subframe just remove the diff, picuture below of one we done some time ago shows the access with the diff removed, neatness is the key, the original fixings need to be reused so the tester can see they are all secure. Jeff TT [/img]

Think you guys are talking about different things, recircs are under the air flow meter area and the boost solenoids are fitted either side of the engine, recircs are held by 2 x 12mm bolts, the boost solenoids brackets are held by 4x 12 mm bolts and the solenoid itself is secured to the bracket by 2 x 8 mm bolts. Removing the electric fan greatly helps getting to the recirc fixing bolts Jeff TT Recircs shown here removed, see fixing holes Recircs shown here in place , see fixing bolts Boost solenoids fixings shown here in blue (5) ::::

See many cambelt adjusters set wrong or failed by seizing, there can be different reasons for this but either way its not good for the belt or your wallet! The zed below was in for a cambelt replacement, no drama, sounded ok so stripped it down. Once stripped it was clear the auto tensioner was stuck and not applying any tension on the belt. The belt had as normal streched since installed but without any tension was so loose you could pull the belt off the pulley. The adjuster can be seen here to be closed, it should be wide open with no belt on. The bizzare thing with this and one`s I have seen before was that the engine was quiet with no indication if a problem of this nature, easy to get caught out. Jeff TT

Continued .... After the pipe is pulled back up the rubber drain can be passed through the side panel, its has a rib in the rubber which is very easy to locate and secure. No back up to the top you can see how short the pipe had become by shrinking Cut the pipe half way down and insert a small metal pipe section, this will give you the extra pipe length to connect the pipe at the top of the A frame. So there you have it, you can always pull a new pipe through to save inserting the pipe connector, but have done these many times and is very easy, replacing the fuse box, accelerator cable and bonnet pull lever is a breeze now and all done. Have fun and one thing to do before you start this job is remove the seat because unless your 2 foot tall you will need a new back after!! Jeff TT

Have already done a couple of the targa drain tech write ups but having done another zed today on the drivers side I took a few more pics this time and with more details so here we go...again, hope it will be of help. This particular zed had a very wet set of carpets and as a consequence has suffered from floor corrosion so it was of importance to stop the water ingress as well as repairing the floor. Both of the targa drain pipes had become disconnected due to shrinking back of the pipe that then causes the exit rubber end to become detached and any water going down the targa drains to end up inside of the cabin, this can result in all sort of electrical issues as the fuse box gets soaked as well as a series of connectors down there. So with the fuse box removed you see this...... Push back the loom.... No you can see the pipe end and the hole where the rubber end should go to, the rubber end was already removed at the point...... Here we can see the rubber end drain that fits to the end of the targa drain pipe, although the real issue was it was disconnected it was in fact also blocked, so before it came detached the water would have been backing up within the pipe. So back to the top of the A frame and with the inside trim removed you can see the targa pipe connection to the roof drain, this now needs disconnecting Now carefully push the pipe down the A frame whilst pulling the pipe at the lower end. Once the pipe is part way down the A frame stop, do not go to far down as it can be a pain to fish it back up. So now the bottom of the pipe is more accessible to work on. With the rubber drain cleaned and glued in place a cable tie is attached for double connection. ..............