RichardS

20% gay, and got the same summing up as Stuart..... Richard :rofl:

Maybe this is only the case with imports. Although I haven't tried with my UK Zed :p I did have 2 Supras before, one UK one import. I could remove the key from the UK one in N but only in P for the import :D Richard :smw:

They are supposed to be, but there are two possibilities why you hit 165..... 1. the limiter has been removed 2. your speedo has lost accuracy with age. The error margin would be higher as speed increases...... Richard ;)

Verrrry nice, mate :cool: Looks dead good, not too big. Really suits the car and doesn't need a body kit to compliment it. Richard :)

I know a mechanic who thinks you're meant to check the level in drive....... :rolleyes: He doesn't get near my ZX, LOL ;) According to handbook, with the engine/gearbox warm (say after 15 minute drive) and the engine running, run the gear lever from P down to 2 then back again. Put it into N (leave engine running) then take reading..... ;) My gearbox oil is still clean and pink too - even though it's due for a change next week with 72K service :cool: Richard :)

about 275lb/ft :cool: Just right for overtaking several cars on a B road before the next bend :dance: Richard :)

True, most of the time..... :rolleyes: The odd beemer tries to outrun it, they get to around 120-130 and give up and the Zed just tears past onto 150 as if they are standing still :cool: Actually, on smaller A + B roads I've had loads of cars pull into laybys or just move right over to the nearside to let me pass, when they catch sight of my ZX looming up in their rear view mirror :tongue: What other car can have that effect? They do look formidable in your rear view mirror, though. And they visually "fill it" - seen one loom up behind me when driving the Corsa once........it just makes you want to get out of its way :cool: ;) Richard :)

The earlier Z31 model had a single turbo but made only 200-220bhp (can't rember exactly...). Nissan wanted the new 300ZX to have 250-300bhp but plenty of torque and low down grunt, therefore chose 2 smaller hybrid turbos to reduce lag. They also had to fit the induction pipes under a much lower bonnet line, so it was much easier to have a turbo on each bank. Heh heh, I've been reading "Nissan 300ZX - The Enthusiast's Companion" a fekking excellent book. :dance: (Cheers, Ben AKA Speezer :cool: ) Richard :)

Did you have your air con on? I get something like this in warm weather. There is an a/c or heating hose on the low left hand side of the engine which is covered in a metal foil-like material. it goes through the bulk-head IIRC (below the battery). I've seen water - probably condensation - dripping from this on a hot day and it drips right on the L/H exhaust behind the turbo. As it hits the hot exhaust the water sizzles and evapourates. Sometimes there is a small puddle just under the car when the exhaust has cooled down, but this evapourates after an hour or so....... I don't think it is anything serious :rolleyes: - the a/c works properly and quickly and I'm not loosing coolant, so I guess it is condensation. (All a/c systems produce it sometimes) Richard :)

Amen to that !!! :bow: :bow: :bow:

The auto is a straight automatic. The imports have a sport mode and a hold mode but Uk ones don't. UK cars are 280bhp, it's the non-turbo (import) car that is around 230bhp. Jap TT cars are 280-300bhp As for your insurance query, all uk cars are 2+2 targa top twin turbos. You don't therefore need to specify "targa top" when looking for insurance on a UK car, which in confusing the poor bemused insurance clerks :D Just say it's a 300zxTT, uk not import. No problems..... ;) Richard :smw:

WTF were you searching for???? Still, I found what happened to Gary Glitter, the :xxx: http://www.olympictrans.ru/fun/img.php?fl=img/uglyZoo/uZoo75.jpg Richard :tongue:

Cheers guys :) Richard

They certainly do, Gordon. These are high performance cars so driving them gently all the time and stifling the power can't be good for the engine.... .....I find if I give a really good blast every couple of weeks (say hard accelleration from 80 to about 130+ and hold it for a few miles - private test track of course :rolleyes: :nono: ) the car runs noticeably better :cool: Richard :tongue:

If you buy a good one there is no reason why it shouldn't be reliable for an every day driver. It is a Nissan afterall. But you must remember these are complex supercars which are at least 10 years old so things are going to break eventually - hence the reason to get a good one the only downside is the running cost. You'll get through fuel like fat birds get through cake :tongue: I use mine every day (mixed dual c'way and urban) and see an average of 18mpg, but I don't care. I bought the car to drive, not look at. You'd be better off keeping the car fairly standard for that kind of use, as the cars which have been heavily modded seem to be less reliable. the other cost will be oil - change it every 3-4000 miles using a good fully synthetic Richard :)

I agree with this, the brakes on my car are good at 30 but better at 100+ :tongue: I'm just about to replace the discs, though coz I have warped them........ .......they've shown signs of warpage since a very hard stop from almost 150 :x: Got loads of smoke from the pads too, lol.... Richard :)

Hi all just got my 3g front discs and pads - they will be fitted next week at service time :hyper: So what brake fluid do you recommend for the ZX? Richard :)

Hi James Normally the rears are 6x4 :confused: Looks like either you have an "optional extra" or someone changed them before you got your car :confused: Richard :eek:

I believe the UK and Jap engines are the same. It's the ECU that's different...... I'm sure someone who knows better will confirm this :confused: Richard :)

That is a very good point :) UK cars have 17 digit vin numbers whereas jap cars vin numbers are about half as long. The V5 should be the clincher - as someone has already said it would say "declared new at first registration" if it is a UK car. Imports say something like "vehicle previously used overseas" Good luck, mate Richard :(

...And I thought my relay may be fooked, glad I never got round to replacing it! :D Can't really think of anything I don't like......... .....maybe the width is sometimes a problem, as some council car parks have bays which are too narrow :nono: Parked in an public car park in St Ives, Cornwall, last year dead straight between the lines as one is supposed to and all 4 wheels were touching the lines !!! :nelson: I decided to do what a woman/bmw driving :xxx: does and park over two bays, otherwise if someone parked next to me I'd never have got the door open :mac1: I pointed this out to the attendant (as I didn't want a ticket for using 2 bays), luckily he was ok about it ;) Richard :smw:

My JVC unit fitted ok using the stock mounting brackets although there was a little gap between the stereo facia and the dash opening. The trim piece that came with the stereo wouldn't fit as it is designed to be used when the head unit sits proud of the dash when the sleeve supplied with it is used. However, with careful use of a stanley knife I trimmed the excess plastic from the surround until it fitted. Looks fine now :cool: Richard ;)

For big bhp, I'm with Hi5......Mk3 Soop ;) You can get a sound one for £1-1500 with 233bhp stock. Sort the headgasket weakness and the engines are bullet proof. stage 3 tubby for £750 from Fensport, Mongoose zorst for £400 frees up over 30bhp (stock zorst is really that restrictive), K&N induction kit for £150 adds near 14bhp then chip it for about £400. You are looking at 300-330 bhp for about £1700 + labour + the cost of the car (less than £4000?). Plus Toymota reliability :bow: You may also (just) get a Pork 928 early s4 (5 litre) with 320bhp stock for £5k (with galactic mileage?). V12 jag - XJs is cheap now - comes with 265-285bhp stock..... Richard :D

Could well be the alternator. :( I read in the buyers guide in Jap Performance magazing that they are only good for around 50k miles. My Zed has now done 70k on the original so I'm waiting........... Richard ;)

redline mt90 is for a manual box only, never use this in an auto box - far too thick and it will feck it up. Use a good quality auto transmission fluid. As for engine oil, any good fully synthetic is the way to go. A low "W" number first will give better protection when cold, the second number should be no lower than 40 (eg 0W40 or 5W40), as these engines generate a lot of heat. Some peoply use Castrol RS 10W60, I personally think the "60" is too thick and will sap performance and use more fuel. I have no problems with Shell Helix Ultra 5W40. My oil pressure is good even at very high temperatures. Mike Feeney in traders section sells Millers 5W40 at about £22 for 5 litres. He knows his ZXs and confirms this gives good results and performance :) HTH Richard :cool: