Smithy

740's only fit zeds (without modifications) after 1994 They can only be fitted in pre 94 zeds with either a lotta work or using 300 degree fuel rails. SMITHY

Lots of goodies in link below, and no it's not me... http://www.smithys-place.co.uk/products.php some decent coolers for sale in our other section, deffo the side mounts. smithy

Gees, just how many times can someone say "lol in a friggin post! Anyway, it's pointed out quite clearly now your at that danger zone as regards your engine. Am more than sure Thor have mapped it well and at the time they looked at all areas and all seems fine, that said i base that on short term, long term you are looking at a different story, so definately sort some coolers out soon, skimp on some cheapos and you'll pay the price, some things you just can't skimp on when tuning an engine that can cost thousands of pounds when it breaks, so bare that in mind cos many havn't listened and they have paid dearly! Use your 17psi carefully, however for peace of mind i would turn it down to 15psi. £540 is the average cost of a set on new Nismo injectors and they would further help safegaurd your engine, should you decide to up the boost again. smithy

Upgrade your coolers as soon as you can afford bud and should deffo be the 1st next mod you do. Reducing in the intake charge temps down is very important. If after a while the car is still running as healthy as you would like, change the injectors for nismo 555's and use the e-manage to control them. Then as and when the turbo's finally give up or you've come into a couple spare grand, you can change the turbo's for pretty much any 5 bolt design and you'll be able to run the higher boost and have some decent power. smithy

There should be 2 rubber lined P-clips that keep the fuel lines off the plenum but still running correctly. The 2 arrows to missing bolts from holes are from where the old fuel lines were attached, so can stay missing. Missing bolt from top of coil pack is M8 X either 12 or 15mm x 1.25 thread. smithy

That's a lot of goodies there mate ;) Noticed you had 3.2L down, with you running wiseco's how did yer manage that or was it a mis print, lol. cheers smithy

Yep, Danny at DTA sells either complete set with hoses etc or just the valves on their own if you wish. He's away until the weekend though. Scroll down to the bottom of the page http://www.smithys-place.co.uk/oem.php smithy

Yes mate it is an easy option, providing that is what is needed, as said here it maybe something else, however that can be looked into. You get a fully gaurnteed and serviced engine including new cambelt, any parts from yours you want transferring isn't usually a problem. It is a fair hike to travel, so ask about testing options before you leave tamwworth so you know what your getting before you travel home. They have done this job numerous times, but like ANY garage, for every 1 negative reply a garage, you'll usually get 10 positive, so go with your gut feeling. As also said though, Jimmer is an excellent engine builder in his own time and so doesn't have the associated customers every day problems, however rebuilding your own and with labour etc maybe more expensive, again you can only enquire :) smithy

Don't wory mate, i've just re read the whole 8 months of bloody saga's with that GB :rolleyes: No they wern't greddy adapters and in fact Greddy ones tend to be about the same price, sometimes cheaper so dunno why he used them! He states that Greddy ones work fine with autometer anyways, which they do, when altered.... the Gauges themselves are AC gauges so i guess the adapters are too. Here's AC's main website, http://acautotechnic.bnetsoftware.com/bNetStore/Templates/Site/Template1_ABC/TplDefault.aspx?TCode=&LCode=79 gauges are often cheaper on ebay though, i had to buy one cos i lost a customers sender unit and couldn't buy a new sender on it's own and as they are not autometer, so i was fooked. smithy

In fairness, it is his fault. Greddy didn't do a specific plate for the Z32, it was Japanese engine universal and fits "most" engines, it also came in different sizes. Greddy being Jap obviously have all their plates to suit Jap gauges, Autometer are US and so their threads are different, hence the problem with certain gauges fitting. These sort of things a supplier should know! Greddy plates are used in shit loads of drag and drift race cars with no problems. SMW1, Greddy plates usually had an oblong shape laser cut out of the side which housed a Greddy embossed signature, as chris often dabbled on ebay and sold goods from there on here, highly possible it was or could be an ebay copy! Cheers smithy

If you've bought this kit through danny, then yep they will come with their own unique set of downpipes, pretty much everything in the kit is unique to PE turbo's because of the shape and size of gaskets,flanges and pipe work etc. If for some strange reason it doesn't have any ( but am sure it does) then one of danny's suppliers used to supply aftermarket downpipes for just PE turbo's, so don't worry. If your thinking aftermarket ECU down the line, then maybe stick a map senor on now whilst it's all getting taken apart, feed the wire into the footwell ready, it's less than 100 bucks and makes life easier in the future. smithy

Definately too hot and your electric sub fan should be kicking in to cool things down at that temp. Mine runs between 77-80 degrees, Howe rad, slam panel, Nismo thermostat and vented headlight panel and bonnet. Oh and no fan shroud :) cheers smithy

Fraid it's a manual bud! smithy

Okay to put this all back into normality again, if possible! The actual boost controller was telling carl it was peaking at 30psi and he was well happy with that as the car went like fook, well wouldn't we all ;) It only became a problem when the car in his opinion became slower but still peaking around 21psi. I spoke with Carl after his brief visit to Zedworld who simply took the car on a short test drive and Jeff stopped as soon as the car peaked ( so as to avoid damage to a customers car) in Jeff's opinion the car was not detting and was clearly rapid, his only explanation was to investigate the boost controller and what aftermarket parts were fitted to the car, which carl was to do. When i spoke with carl i said exactly same as you guys, no it's not possible you must be reading something wrong, the engine would have blew by now, but as of yet it hasn't. I also thought of a boost leak which carl says has been done and no leaks found. Finally i said maybe the lack of power is in fact the rings on their way out from running such high boost. So we have to now assume there is some aftermarket parts on his zed allowing him to do this as far as i know he's been runing this kind of power for some time. So starting from the begining, Carl after having your boost controller fitted and set up last time round ( forget the companies name now) did your car run quicker after this set up or slower, so in short was your car really quick before the controller was fitted ???????? smithy

As far as i know the reading is off his boost controller, but if just of his gauge i'd be interested too. BTW Andy this is the guy you spoke with last year up at Nottingham at the show, just to help with idea's ;) smithy

Ditto with what danny said ;) But what problems are you having now that caused you to get more infor from garages ? smithy

Rightyo, Unless the engine you've got built already doesn't hav ethe upper plenum and rockers on, i'd leave the gasket on you have, certainly not worth at this stage changing unless you've got a few bob spare for the added labour. anyway that aside, the spec looks pretty good, i assume new oil pump and water pump ? if the engine is just sat there, be good idea to get new bearings fitted in the bottom now as they cost peanuts to buy, ( if not already done) Clutch wise, well once you've run it in and mapping the car you'll be on the limit for a RPS Max series clutch, however it should last quite a while and replacement disc is about 125 quid should you wear it out. If money was no object then obviously the carbon carbon like i use, it is mega bucks aorund the £1750 mark, but you will never wear it out, drives like a stock unit and is not a paddle clutch, no other clutch company in the world gives a gaurantee like RPS do on this unit. Non RPS, possibly the carbonetics carbon clutch is cheaper and powerfull. Puck clutches, these hold only approx 10% more power than an organic unit, they wear out quicker, cost around 50% more to replace the disc compared to organic and are basically a paddle clutch, so on or off! I ran the MAX series in mine for years including when JD done my mapping for 2 hours on the dyno and the guy doing the actual driving work commented on how sweet it was and able to hold the power, so maybe give that a shot ;) cheers smithy

Sorry mate didn't notice you'd asked more, just popping off for tea and i'll reply laterz for yer ;) smithy

Personally if it's an effective fan, i would possibly suggest almost over cool things. certainly longer to heat up to operating temps. Minimum temp for effectiveness is around 70 odd degrees, i think about 75. The electric sub fan kicks in at 95degrees. with a koyo,slam panel and efficient cooling system you should be running around 80 degrees. I have a Spal electric cut in switch which kicks in at 85degrees, though nowt else is fitted yet :D you can buy these on ebay, from spal online shop or maybe ask Luke to sell you just the electrical side of his kit. smithy

Yup certainly possible, in the same way as when turbo seals go, it smokes mainly off boost and standstill, ie: when the compressor wheel slows down and is no longer mixing smoke with exhaust gas, plus when driving small amounts of smoke could be coming out and mixing straight away with clean air. Remove the 2 main hoses to the throttle bodies and lift up the accelerator linkage and look inside for traces of oil residue, handy time to clean these whilst your at it. When you replaced the valves, did you do the 4 or 5 hoses with them ? as these can become blocked too. When you done the turbo's i assume you removed the engine ? was there any oil residue in the cast turbo pipes that connect to your turbo's and then onto the cat pipes ? Does the car drive really nice and smooth with no hesitation or feeling like it wants to cut out or stall ? smithy

Yup one often is more expensive than the other if bought seperately and the difference in sensors is from sept 93, these i think are slightly dearer than the pre 93 ones. smithy

Well fitting these will do away with the VTC function you presently have. Cam timing is somewhat a bit more specialised, it has to be pretty much spot on, however the gains can be quite good and allows you to create almost your own power band where and when you want. I believe Zeds can run quite lumpy with this set up though, would have to research a bit more as not many even including high powered Zeds have really gone down this route, so only a small number of peeps worldwide i guess could tell you for sure. Oh and if your a pre 94 model, you'll need cam sprocket adapters for your JWT cams (only about 25 quid) cheers smithy

If you've got the money, then stainless would be nice and you'll know it will last.. Good idea running the engine before mapping with the standalone, likes of AEM etc, however DTA do a 740cc chip, you could run your car in using this chip and not have to worry about a full set of injector swaps complete with 300 degree kit after she's all done. Think the chip is around 80-100 bucks, job done, you could even copy the map to start the programe off for the standalone as a base point and if fitting the AEM, it's a simple 20minute job no messing with injectors etc and off you go to the mapper and already running a programe you know works well ( DTA Chip) . Hope i've explained that right, lol smithy

Anyone know for deffo that an Auto 1 piece prop would be about 2 inches longer than a manual one ? if so i got an auto one for sale el cheapo :mac1: cheers smithy

Pauter Rods are very good, similar price to the Carillo's too. Smithy