Smithy

Ok so you put up a pic and link to the ones you were offered or bought, yes?? What am saying is as you are ONLY asking about rears (unless thats changed) then what you posted previously will do the job unless you wanna pay the extra for the wiper slots, yes? If you were looking for any fronts, then as Nick says go for wiper slots as it's the fronts you need the best performing brakes. Clear? smithy

Nick it's Rears he's looking for mate. They do wiper slots but more expensive that what you got http://www.clarkmotorsport.co.uk/parts/4000-T3-Series-Brake-Disc---Slotted-%28Pair%29/Rear-Vented/DBA4929SP IMO mate wht you got now for the Rears is okay unless you wanna spend more cash... Smithy

Oh man that sucks for yer mate, your patience knows no bounds over these past few years :-) How was the zed when you last drove it yourself mate?, ( as in past few months lol) smithy

Noz, it was MY point i was saying your missing, not his. I think we've debated enough on this guys thread and he has enough to choose from eh. We'll have to agree to disagree as enlarging I/C piping, fitting new elbows and manifolds at great cost on a stock-ish Zed to achieve greater power as at his level are not restrictive, is not what i would do personally, but you would so no biggie. cheers smithy

Your missing the point, i am not saying gains as such from the injectors, i am saying IMO unless he installs bigger injectors which "allow" him to safely increase his power by any means he chooses, by staying stock injectors his risks are far greater and his end goal may not actually be achieved. It's his money/time etc and obviously his choice to make, have seen more Zedders than i can count come on this forum with their ideas (some cheap and some not) of tuning to see them later being broken up or yet another rebuild. These cars can cost more in repairs to a tired engine than they can some times cost to buy the actual car! smithy

Noz i assure you that i was more than happy with the power my own zed produced and maintained for a number of years. Having been in the modifying game for well over 20 years and 5 of them as a supplier of performance parts to most Jap cars, i've been around and seen enough to know what a mapper can do and make no reference to any particular one :-) TBH the idea of increasing his I/C pipework at the level he's aiming for and the cost of them supply/fit IMO would not see the same gains as fitting bigger injectors. I'll be honest and say that having been around a number of Nissan and Mitsubishi tuning specialists since i can remember, injector wise has always been either add a couple more (SE old way) or simply increase cc size to achieve higher and safer power for longer term. So far to gain his power desires i've stated bigger injectors, the pistons was simply a common sense and safegaurd feature which obviously in itself does not incrase power, better coolers and that's it. This of course is assuming all stage 1-2 items such as intake and exhaust and de-catts have already been done :-) smithy

Mate you pays your money and you takes your chance! Having been round zeds for around 13 years i can tell you and even from experience if your engine is out and being rebuilt, not fitting forged pistons is IMO nuts! The zed is over 20 years old now, generally had quite a few owners, it only takes one of them to have had too much boost at one point and the engine has/could suffer detonation. Given the age also means parts are far more worn now than ever. Having owned a zed with a brand new nissan supplied engine i seen No.6 (most common) piston blow at Thor RR day, previous owner had ran too much boost and the car wasn't mapped for it. Engine by now had only done 37,000 miles Series 1/2 zeds suffer less fuel to No 6 and is only a problem when increasing boost pressure. Wiseco's are about the cheapest on the market and most common used IMO. Also bare in mind mapping zeds has NEVER previously been a common feature, chipping has unless chasing seriously high figures or tracking and even then using stand alone units. Again IMO i wouldn't want my car mapped to achieve the highest bhp possible using standard injectors which are donkey's years old with soooo many these days giving up and to be perfectly honest, i've not seen (in the UK) before zeds make real 450bhp on standard injectors despite what's written above. Injectors ain't expensive, easy to do and i'd rather have them running easily within their parameters than a set of old stockies which can only be at their maximum to achieve the same result. Not everyone has the ability to have a car mapped each time to suit an ongoing build or project and whilst a really good mapper can make a car run really well and fast they can also create figures that peeps want to see............ Smithy

I think he means extras as in on top of his build mate, If that is the case then bigger injectors and upgrade the turbo's/ intercooler But yes should deffo fit forged pistons in the rebuild smithy

It's certainly a very good system by all accounts and fairly fautless too, however Noz mabe able to do what the Selin translater does when mapping the car i dunno, but yes it gives good results with twin intakes. smithy

If you want the best from this set up you have Steve and plan to set the car up just this once, Fit a dual MAF and quickly! Smithy

As is the MAF, If running a standard MAF and single cone it's also limited to around the 500 area, hence Jaffa's comment above, running a dual or even MAP sensor could see more gains. smithy

505 Fly and 490 torque. Good luck mate :-) smithy

Yep discussed a zillion times, however at the end still no definate and doubt there ever will. No one og this forum has fitted both types to the same Zed and done dyno runs to see which worked best, either way your improving the intake charge temps no matter which one you choose as very much doubt any differene between the 2 types would really be that significant tbh. All i would suggest is a decent one, again another can of worms lol but 2 things to consider. 1) Something that sells for just over a hundred quid and is meant to look like something that cost 5 times as much, you gotta ask yerself, how? When i was a trader years ago AutoBahn offered me trade on their Zed front mount at less than a 100 quid yikes! 2) There has over the years been the odd test in Jap magazines using different cars and coolers and never have I seen a cheapie perform as well as a branded one, infact in 1 test on a scooby the ebay cooler performed WORSE than stock! Good luck Oh btw for me it will always be SMIC, they can perform really well and you can easily make your ducts to suit so no loss of incoming cold air. Pipework is no longer than stock. Have you see some of the agressive bends in the Front mounts around, wowwww Smithy

Yep discussed a zillion times, however at the end still no definate and doubt there ever will. No one og this forum has fitted both types to the same Zed and done dyno runs to see which worked best, either way your improving the intake charge temps no matter which one you choose as very much doubt any differene between the 2 types would really be that significant tbh. All i would suggest is a decent one, again another can of worms lol but 2 things to consider. 1) Something that sells for just over a hundred quid and is meant to look like something that cost 5 times as much, you gotta ask yerself, how? When i was a trader years ago AutoBahn offered me trade on their Zed front mount at less than a 100 quid yikes! 2) There has over the years been the odd test in Jap magazines using different cars and coolers and never have I seen a cheapie perform as well as a branded one, infact in 1 test on a scooby the ebay cooler performed WORSE than stock! Good luck Oh btw for me it will always be SMIC, they can perform really well and you can easily make your ducts to suit so no loss of incoming cold air. Pipework is no longer than stock. Have you see some of the agressive bends in the Front mounts around, wowwww Smithy

Mate a stock wheel is 8in wide so you deffo don't want a 7in one. Et around 35ish for the front is okay smithy

For a cheaper option yes the 350Z or GTR discs and brackets is a start, if you cann afford the relevant calipers though all the better, however the discs on a 350z are different offsett size to GTR, so if you buy 350Z calipers you fit 350Z discs, if you fit GTR Brembo calipers you fit GTR discs, both same size in diameter and thickness, but not 100% the same. smithy

http://www.clarkmotorsport.co.uk/parts/4000-Series-Brake-Disc---SLOTTED/DRILLED-%28Pair%29/Rear-Vented/DBA4929XSP Christ give me yer money and i'll buy them as well lol smithy

What? it only lists 2 types for the REARS on my link and they both the same size 300mm mate and for the fronts they all 324mm. smithy

Yikes they got some on a very good offer! Rears mega cheap. http://www.clarkmotorsport.co.uk/website/webshop/productsSearch.asp?searchModel=R33+GT%2DR+RB26+Brembo+1994%2D1998&searchMake=Nissan+Skyline smithy

Rest assured Terry intake charge temps too high is no good for your engine and WILL sap power. During a 300zx club rolling road day many years ago, 75% of the Zeds had high intake charge temps, the more efficient your coolers the safer your engine is thats why rolling road tuners watch your intake charge temps when tuning. Ours are tiny and not the most efficient and anyone who modifies a turbo car and disregards this area is IMO nuts! smithy

If your running GTR fronts then select the GTR33 (324mm) in the menu. For the rears unless you changed the discs at the same time as the calipers then select 300zx in the drop down menu for the 296mm rears. smithy

You most definately need better coolers, stock ones even on a stage 1 Zed will suffer heat soak on prolonged runs, so YES but what sort is your choice, i personally favour decent side mounts. Laggy?, if you drove a car which was laggy after fitting new coolers, something else is wrong, the effect should be like driving your Zed in the cold at night, QUICKER! Boost controller once set doesn't need to be touched and can be left in the glove box, for peace of mind to avoid boost spikes and increases in boost from coldness, you'd be nuts to get rid once you got it. Smithy

Boost leak is the most obvious to me, used to happen to mine like that many many moons ago and the recirc blanks were leaking. Smithy

Ditto and well done folks :-) smithy

Bare in mind an engine swap ain't and easy or cheap job unless you know what your doing, even then it's a similar aged item! Apart from a possible headgasket nothing you've listed is hard or really time consuming to do, nor expensive. 1st thing is remove carefully every harness connector you can find and clean both ends. 2nd your fans, even i was confused by your previous posts on these, so you have 2 fans, 1 is electric sub fan behind bumper you should ever know this is on when overheating, aircon on or a water temp sensor fault, if it's on now when engine runs, you got a problem. 2nd fan is viscous (large white blades) and that is on the engine itself and runs all the time, only noise you should here is like wind blowing or if a lose belt, then some squeeling. In some rare cases the clutch unit on it goes, easy to replace and cheap second hand. 3rd, Flush the rad, easy to do and top up carefully, run engine to temp if your gauge is not accurate like many arn't, plumb in an aftermarket gauge ( even tempory) your looking for between 78-83degrees ideally. A feesh load of oil and filter. If still worried ask a local garage to check for headgasket failure, not expensive. If it is, then consider another TT engine from manual or auto, no biggie which. hth smithy