dixonjohn

Hi Posidrive, I fitted a grounding kit, they look nice anyway. I'm currious, how does a grounding issue cause heater matrix failure ? John

Jonce, I had a rear windscreen fitted by a guy that the breaker in Birmingham uses (where I got the screen from) for £100 all in. I watched him, he did a nice job, was very carefull. John

I would take the UK one, the colour makes no difference. As far as insurance goes, it depends who your with. Im with Direct line and I pay £360 fully comp. When I was thinking of swapping it for a turbo 300zx, I called them, they said a twin turbo was the same insurance group as the n/a, and there would not be any more to pay. I stressed that both mine and the turbo was an import, and would she double check that she was quoting an import. She daid she would check with the technical department and call me back. She called back in about 30 minutes to confirm, twin turbo import £360 fully comp. John

No, I was not thinking of any horse power gain.........just for appearance John

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2469910393&category=36680 Has anyone bought these pipes ? they look ok, price seems reasonable Thanks John

I was about to post a similar question. I bought my car about 9 months ago, I noticed the "typical" 30 - 50 mph vibration, especially when cold. I replaced the rear gearbox mount, which did not solve a thing, and I doubt that it is ever a cause of this type of vibration. So, my nexxt project is to replace the prop shaft centre bearing, I think about £150 just for the part. However, when I think about it, the vibration, while a bit annoying, is not that bad, and is tolerable. The import thing is, does it get worse, and cause serious damage ? Mine has been the same since I bought it, no worse. John

Thanks Brian, Have you had any turbo problems/failures ? You have also driven non turbos (mine) does the turbo have loads more acceleration (with 70 horses extra I guess it must) ? How much quicker is it over standing 1/4 mile, 0-60, 0-100 etc. ? Cheers, John

I have been toying with the idea of switching to a turbo, but this forum is littered with horror stories of turbo destruction. My question is, how many of you are driving on the original turbos? and how many miles has the car done JD

Leonard, SUCCESS!!! (I think) It pissed it down in a downpour for about 30 mins, I went out to check the car........AND THE SEATS ARE BONE DRY. Now I can clean the cloth seats with upholstery cleaner to get rid of the water stains. It was starting to get me down a bit, spending all that money and still getting wet. That "Seek & Seal" did the trick. (thanks Leonard) I know that its not supposed to need any sealer, but the seals never seem to go back and fit as tight up against the metal as the original ones. Cheers, John

I dont think so, mine seems to be fairly accurate. Mine is wired into the back of the instrument cluster also, a little black box, I dont know where it was bought from, it was on the car when I bought it. John

Anyone know Gary Lewis Edwards.....he was the previous owner of my car. John

Halfords dont sell it, I bought it from a local motor accessory place, its a COMMA product, if thats any help................but the product really works fantastic. John

Leonard, I tried the "Seek & Seal" .....seems to work great. Today it pissed it down with rain, and all I got was about a tablespoon full of water inside (I put plastic over the seats when I got to work) I will examine the tops this weekend and apply a little more, I reckon I can just about eliminate all leaks. Thanks for the tip, Cheers, John

I have heard Proxes wear very well, but are cr*p in the wet, like many of the tyres of Jap imports, rubber is as hard as nails. John

Could be prop shaft centre bearing, or gearbox rear mount..........or both. John

Just measure the footprint (the height will be lower on a new battery, may have to shim up the battery or use spacers at the top of the threaded rod) and get the highest output that will fit the footprint. I got a Bosch Silver (about 75 A/H) for about £45 from Costco John

Thanks everyone for great advice and step by step instructions. I guess the easiest would be to get the replacement style one if fiberglass, That way I could prep and paint it off the car, and carefully bond it to the tailgate. I do like the high wing spoiler, but that would involve more work and cost. If you use the tailgate skin (when using a high wing type spoiler) on Luke's website in the photo it looks like it has been blended in around its perimeter, however, to do that would require the whole tailgate to be blended in, which I want to avoid. Thanks again, John

Mathew, Dont you have to use different types of material for different fluid contacts ? Cheers, John

Thanks Jack, Why would there be an orange peel effect ? John

JonJon, I did not notice any difference after changing the diff oil, but I felt a bit of peice of mind know that it had been done. John

I am thinking of buying a fiberglass spoiler (prob. from Luke) and fitting it myself. I have seen the step by step instructions for removing the old one. I have some questions on installing the new one (does any know of a site that has a step by step installation ?) 1. Can the old holes be filled with fiberglass resin instead of welding them up with steel? 2. What kind of finish is on the new fiberglass spoiler ? What kind of primers, sealers, etc. does it need before its final colour spray ? 3. The new spoiler is bonded on to the boot lid with Sika adhesive/sealer, but after that does it normally get filled and blended with resin around its perimeter ? Does it need to be filled in, any water can not go anywhere due to the Sika sealant. My car is dark grey, what colour primer is needed for the spoiler? What preparation is needed to the tailgate before spraying? Does the tailgate paint have some type of laquer (or glaze type finish) that has to be removed ? What type of paint do I get ? Are there different types, based on different types of solvent, etc.? I am confident that if I do the right preparation with the right materials I can spray it ok, I once sprayed a Lotus Elan 2+2 that I had in the USA with a cheap electric paint spray gun that was so under powered that I had to thin the paint so much that runs were inevitable. Whenever I got a paint run, I had to wait for the paint to cure, then rub it down. It took me about 3 weeks, but in the end I got a really nice finish. (it all started when I spilled some brake fluid on the back wing, only intended to spray the wing, but ended up doing the whole car! Thanks, John Dixon

Robin, I did heat it up a bit.......still took a while though, although I did not have the maximum diameter tubing possible. John

I changed my diff oil last year, took hours for that thick oil to drain down through about 6 feet of small diameter tubing. But once its done, you know that its good for a couple of years. John

Thanks Leonard, I will give that "seek and seal" a try. Mines still leaking. I agree with you, I think its the straight rubber seal that fits on the targa thats the cause of most of the problems. Cheers, John

Leonard, Have you installed the seals yet? John